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Old 01-10-2006, 02:39 PM   #1
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Ran furnace a couple of months back it was ok, now when I turn the furnace on I hear a buzzing sound at my power inverter then the 15 amp fuse burns out. I never hear the furnace trying to run, no blower noise at all.
Same fuse runs front A/C just fine, but switch to furnace and shes gone.
Plugged in to land line all the time when stored, and has two deep cycle 12 volt batts that check out ok.

Just started looking at the problem and thats all I have done as of now.

1990 Winnebago Elandan Gasoline 33 foot
Dont know brand of furnace yet, only has one furnace.

Doug
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Old 01-10-2006, 02:39 PM   #2
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Ran furnace a couple of months back it was ok, now when I turn the furnace on I hear a buzzing sound at my power inverter then the 15 amp fuse burns out. I never hear the furnace trying to run, no blower noise at all.
Same fuse runs front A/C just fine, but switch to furnace and shes gone.
Plugged in to land line all the time when stored, and has two deep cycle 12 volt batts that check out ok.

Just started looking at the problem and thats all I have done as of now.

1990 Winnebago Elandan Gasoline 33 foot
Dont know brand of furnace yet, only has one furnace.

Doug
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Old 01-11-2006, 12:50 AM   #3
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Doug, locate the furnace and disconnect the wiring at it. Retry the circuit by turning on the furnace at the T'stat. Does the fuse blow or hold? If blows you have a short in the wires from the T'stat or possibly but doubtful a bad T'stat. Try ohming out the wires to chassis frame. Should be open. If the fuse holds during this test then the problem lies in the furnace itself.
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Old 01-11-2006, 05:07 AM   #4
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How about the fans/motor frozen due to rust or mud daubers?
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Old 01-11-2006, 01:47 PM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RV Wizard:
Doug, locate the furnace and disconnect the wiring at it. Retry the circuit by turning on the furnace at the T'stat. Does the fuse blow or hold? If blows you have a short in the wires from the T'stat or possibly but doubtful a bad T'stat. Try ohming out the wires to chassis frame. Should be open. If the fuse holds during this test then the problem lies in the furnace itself. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
==================================

Ok per your suggestion wire pulled, fuse ok, wire plugged back in fuse burns.

Pulled Suburban furance out of motor home, Fan cage frozen will not turn by hand at all. Did not see any obstructions no dobbers or anything.

I think I should be able to just turn the fan by hand very easy right? Anyway it will not turn, now is it cheaper to replace the blower motor or the whole 1990 furnace, model number NT-34SP...more research needed.

Thanks for all the sugestions it seems to have put me on the right track.

Doug
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Old 01-11-2006, 03:43 PM   #6
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Change Just the fan motor or oil it and if not to hard to pull try that for thats all thats wrong just keep a eye on it Oil the shaft.Bushman Eh
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Old 01-12-2006, 02:44 AM   #7
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Doug, a new replacement furnace will set you back close to $500. A replacement fan motor might be $100 max, likely less. Do you have a Grainger's nearby? They stock lotsa motors.
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Old 01-12-2006, 04:17 AM   #8
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I would guess that if the furnace worked two months ago, the fan motor is not that frozen, and could be loosened by hand, the shaft cleaned and lubricated for years more service. That way the big investment would be the time and energy to get to the fan and put it back in service. Good luck either way, and be sure to post a write-up of how the problem was resolved.
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Old 01-12-2006, 08:20 AM   #9
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Doug,I've had many frozen shaft and bearings. Squirt some W-10 oil and let stand for a few hours and turn by hand to loosen up then run.
If it has brass bearing you can flood with the penetrating oil to flush out then put in the heavier oil and should be good to go. If it has the ball bearing you will have to put in new bearings.

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Old 01-12-2006, 09:03 AM   #10
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Update.....found massive Dobber nests in side of closed fan box, none in motor cage blower.
runs fine on test power and plugged it back into the RV power and did not burn fuse.
All that remains is to reinstall furnace and intall Dobber screens ( got to go get those ).

One side note found gas shutoff valve to be very loose at the pipe thread connection and the pipe dope sealant all dried up could have been a leak very easely at that spot.

Total cost was only my time as of now and what ever the screens cost.
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:48 PM   #11
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Dougmyers, glad to hear that you were able to quickly diagnose and repair. Thank you for letting us know the outcome as this help others. Glad also that you checked for any lp gas leaks and repaired before starting unit up. Good luck and stay safe.
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