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Old 12-16-2004, 06:28 PM   #1
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I started the Atwood furnace a few days ago with no problem just to check it out before it really got cold.
Tonight it won't lite. The blower will come on and it will "click" about three times like it is trying to ignite but then the blower shuts down.
I have plenty of LP, the stove and hot water fires right up.
Any ideas on possible solutions?
Thanks.

P.S. My heat pump works fine but if I want warm air in the basement to prevent freezing it comes from the gas furnace.
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Old 12-16-2004, 06:28 PM   #2
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I started the Atwood furnace a few days ago with no problem just to check it out before it really got cold.
Tonight it won't lite. The blower will come on and it will "click" about three times like it is trying to ignite but then the blower shuts down.
I have plenty of LP, the stove and hot water fires right up.
Any ideas on possible solutions?
Thanks.

P.S. My heat pump works fine but if I want warm air in the basement to prevent freezing it comes from the gas furnace.
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Old 12-16-2004, 07:04 PM   #3
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I had an older motorhome that had a problem like this. I had a spider web inside the gas tube blocking off the orifice.
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Old 12-17-2004, 06:47 PM   #4
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I actually got it started but didn't do anything.

I took it off shore power and disconnected the battery for about 1/2 hour. Plugged it back in and nothing--the blower started but it didn't light.

I took the outside cover off and clicked the reset breaker--tried it again and the same thing;p no flame.

I tried it once again and bingo..it started up and worked fine. I set the thermostat and let it cycle for a couple of hours and it worked fine. Go figure?

I'm going to put this on the punch list when I go to Lakeland in March for factory service.
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Old 12-29-2004, 10:05 AM   #5
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The same thing happened to me in April, 2003 when I was preparing to go to Alaska. They replaced the circuit board and it worked fine. A month later, I woke up freezing in Whitehorse, BC and thank God there was a service center nearby. They adjusted the pressure and something called the electrode gap and I haven't had any problems since then.

I'm curious to know what the problem with yours turns out to be.

Good luck,
Malia
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Old 12-29-2004, 01:44 PM   #6
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All electrical connections should be checked by unplugging and reconnecting each one. This will in effect clean the connection fairly well. If you have some electrical contact cleaner spray that on the connections before reconnecting. If after you have done this you still have a problem you will need to troubleshoot it. You can check out a sight I just found @ www.rvrepairmanual.com it has some good ifo that may help you with pictures. Let me know how I can help with a model #.
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Old 12-29-2004, 04:18 PM   #7
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It is the Sail switch. When the blower comes on, there is a paddle type switch that the blast from the fan "closes". When this switch closes, the air fllow has been "proven" and the gas valve will open. If the switch dos not close, and does not idicate that there is airflow, the gas valve will not open, and thus will not ignite. IN your case the sail switch isnot reading the air flow, and will not let the gas valve open.
The good news is that the switch is inexpensive and "easy" to replace. The bad news is that it is located on the outside end of the furnace, and usually means that you have to pull it to replace the switch.
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Old 12-29-2004, 05:28 PM   #8
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It is running now and has been for several days without a problem. I have a service appointment scheduled in a few weeks so I'll let you know what they find.

Thanks for all of the help.
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Old 01-01-2005, 05:31 PM   #9
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While I am guessing, just as the others are, I would check the gas pressure first since it would appear to work some times. But it is also possible that the problem was something in the air path or in the igniter and that the cause is now gone and will not be found. I doubt very much that it was the sail switch as when they fail, which is pretty rare, the switchs seldom begin to work again.

But like everyone else, I am just guessing, so let us know what happens.
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