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Old 03-23-2016, 09:30 PM   #1
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GAWR and Floor Jacks

This probably a silly question (I know, no such thing), but here goes. I have a 2001 Vacationer with a GAWR front of 7k, and a GAWR rear of 13.5k . Now if I understand this correctly, a 'quality' (not Harbor Freight) 4-ton floor jack should easily jack up any corner of this motorhome. I already have the jack stands.

The problem is, I either have a bad set of front brake pads or rotor, or a bearing is on it's way out. I've done these jobs many times on cars, and the only difference is everything is just a tad larger. I have an appointment in 2 weeks, but for what I'll end up paying, I can buy the jack, pads, and probably bearings. So have I done the math correctly?


Also, saw that blue torque multiplier somewhere, (think it was here). Anyone with experience on this gizmo???

Thanx, Dubya
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:38 PM   #2
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I would rather use the hydraulics jacks on the MH to raise it up and then place jack stands under the axle to support it. JMHO

Be safe.
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:40 PM   #3
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As in the kind that hook up to my compressor???
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B Dubya View Post
As in the kind that hook up to my compressor???
He is talking about using the RV leveling jacks to get the frame high enough to put the jacks stands underneath.

I would not recommend doing this on the rear of the Rv if you are on a small incline and lift the rear wheels off the ground, the Rv could roll forward breaking you or the jacks.

I think you would be good to go using your floor jack on the front axle, if you have not bought your floor jack already, I would buy one weight class up, just to give you some wiggle room for the rear axle.


You have to think about when you lift one side of the Rv up with the floor jack and then put you jack stand underneath, when you go to the other side you will have more weight to lift as the weight has shifted to the low side. Just something to consider.
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:49 PM   #5
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^^^^^ I knew someone was gonna say that! The price from a 4-ton to a 5-ton rises exponentially.
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:58 PM   #6
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^^^^^ I knew someone was gonna say that! The price from a 4-ton to a 5-ton rises exponentially.
What about a low profile bottle jack, its a harbor freight brand


not sure what the clearance is on your front axle, but this one is 7"

20 Ton Low Profile Hydraulic Bottle Jack
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:02 PM   #7
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I just never trusted those things!
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:12 PM   #8
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I just never trusted those things!
I hear ya, just checked out prices of 5 tn and 6tn floor jack, man those things are expensive
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:19 PM   #9
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Have you estimated how many times you'll use the floor jack after this job? I have one I've used 2-3 times in 10 years. Seems it's always in my way in the garage.
Do you have an air impact gun and sockets to remove all the rusty bolts you'll encounter doing this job? That would add more money to this DIY job.

IMO, you'll wind-up money ahead to hire the job done, and it will be guaranteed.
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:24 PM   #10
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I have a 2-ton jack I use all the time. I've always done my own work on cars including restoration. I have 2 compressors, and more air tools than I need. Also a triple stack tool box that's full. I have tools I don't even know why I have them!! I spend most of my time working on my offroad vehicle. A few rusty nutz are no challenge. I've done brakes and bearings dozens of times on my own vehicles and, unfortunately, friends and relatives. This job doesn't bother me at all. It bothers my back and left knee, but not me!
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:48 PM   #11
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You are over thinking this--any bottle jack from Harbor Freight of proper tonnage, along with their jackstands, will support the MH. Some of HF tools are not too good, but the jacks/jackstands will do the work. ONE bottle jack and 2 jackstands will suffice to do the project. Floor jacks are useful to get under things without actually having to be under things--but are much heavier and don't lend themselves to be carried on travels.
I have a 6 ton bottle jack and 2 jackstands that go everywhere with me.
And, why do both sides have to be lifted at the same time?
Joe
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:51 PM   #12
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Do you jack up at the center when using a bottle jack, or do you place outboard nearer to the wheel?
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Old 03-24-2016, 07:23 AM   #13
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When I changed the shocks on our previous 35 ft motor home a used a low profile 10 ton bottle jack. Instead of jack stands I used wood blocking. I had some pieces of 6x6 deck post that I used as the base and pieces of 2x12 to build up to the right height. I released the jack and let the weight settle on the wood blocking and then re-tightened the jack.
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Old 03-24-2016, 08:21 AM   #14
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I'd go with a bottle jack just because it's easier to store. I have a motorcycle jack, a regular 3 ton car jack and a low profile car jack for the sports cars. It seems like I spend most of my time moving the jacks from place to place in the garage.
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