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Old 08-08-2019, 01:37 PM   #1
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Generator oil

Has anyone ever used Amsol or Royal Purple in their Onan Genny? Looking to go synthetic in my Onan 4000.
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Old 08-08-2019, 02:48 PM   #2
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Does Onan recommend synthetic oil ?
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Old 08-08-2019, 02:59 PM   #3
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No need for synthetic, just change it once a year.
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Old 08-08-2019, 03:23 PM   #4
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No need for synthetic, just change it once a year.
I use mobil1. Its only 1.5 qts. Why not use the best especially in really hot or cold weather.
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Old 08-08-2019, 03:35 PM   #5
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I use mobil1. Its only 1.5 qts. Why not use the best especially in really hot or cold weather.
If the " Best " is better then it needs, its just a waste.
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Old 08-08-2019, 03:44 PM   #6
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Does Onan recommend synthetic oil ?
I spoke to the onan mechanic yesterday when I bought the air filter and he said yes. Go with synthetic. The question is what do others use and does anyone use Royal Purple. Because it's all I can find in 15w40.
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Old 08-08-2019, 03:45 PM   #7
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I use mobil1. Its only 1.5 qts. Why not use the best especially in really hot or cold weather.
Exactly, for a few pennies more why be cheap. It's only 1.6 qts.
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Old 08-08-2019, 03:47 PM   #8
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Shell Rotella Synthetic 15W40 at Walmart. Good oil, much cheaper than the "Designer" brands.

https://youtu.be/rnEgUCRuZNY
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Old 08-08-2019, 06:03 PM   #9
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I am an oil nut from the powersports industry and have a friend who is a research scientist among other titles for a major refiner. His projects ranged from grain conveyor oils to nascar .... so my brain explodes some days..

The only concrete things I can say is use the oil chart from Onan for temps and weights.

The other thing is use an oil made for a flat tappet valve train.,, zinc and phosphor rich... Old style Rotella, Delvac 15-40 is good stuff, not synthetic. Dino oil works.. Race oil made for that 60's 427 or Boss 302 is best.....
Modern motor have roller valve trains and or optimised clearances for oils that have no heany metals in them , since the cats and feds dont want it in the oil..

Synthethics can be made to meet or exceed good dino oil but the best synthetic that mimic the best dino bright stock is pricey. Esters are pricey etc etc..
Amsoil 15w 40 for older pre 2007 diesels are very good.
I like using 4 stroke motorcycle oils in my gennies. 15w 50 or 15w-60 when over 80 degrees.
I like Liqui Moly, Motul 300V etc..

I have Some knock off 2000 watt champions, 3500 watt all with over 2500 hours in 3 years that run well, the ones I lost were do to ignitions or stator not engine.

An other Trick I use with the 15w-40 oils is I add a couple ounce of Lucas Zinc for flat tappets.. in the hot summer also I add 2 ounce of Lucas synttic oil stabilizer.
This is over kill but in the substandard knock offs it work, NO metallic in oils.

I run these things hard, 40- 60 hours non stop at 60-80% load. My 3500 Green Power units have run for 100 hours, shut off change oil, restart for another 70-80 ... 1000-1200 hours per season..min

I hope my onan can keep up..in the RV ..
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Old 08-08-2019, 06:53 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by sibe View Post
I am an oil nut from the powersports industry and have a friend who is a research scientist among other titles for a major refiner. His projects ranged from grain conveyor oils to nascar .... so my brain explodes some days..

The only concrete things I can say is use the oil chart from Onan for temps and weights.

The other thing is use an oil made for a flat tappet valve train.,, zinc and phosphor rich... Old style Rotella, Delvac 15-40 is good stuff, not synthetic. Dino oil works.. Race oil made for that 60's 427 or Boss 302 is best.....
Modern motor have roller valve trains and or optimised clearances for oils that have no heany metals in them , since the cats and feds dont want it in the oil..

Synthethics can be made to meet or exceed good dino oil but the best synthetic that mimic the best dino bright stock is pricey. Esters are pricey etc etc..
Amsoil 15w 40 for older pre 2007 diesels are very good.
I like using 4 stroke motorcycle oils in my gennies. 15w 50 or 15w-60 when over 80 degrees.
I like Liqui Moly, Motul 300V etc..

I have Some knock off 2000 watt champions, 3500 watt all with over 2500 hours in 3 years that run well, the ones I lost were do to ignitions or stator not engine.

An other Trick I use with the 15w-40 oils is I add a couple ounce of Lucas Zinc for flat tappets.. in the hot summer also I add 2 ounce of Lucas synttic oil stabilizer.
This is over kill but in the substandard knock offs it work, NO metallic in oils.

I run these things hard, 40- 60 hours non stop at 60-80% load. My 3500 Green Power units have run for 100 hours, shut off change oil, restart for another 70-80 ... 1000-1200 hours per season..min

I hope my onan can keep up..in the RV ..
We're talking 4000 gas gen. With no oil filter. Use the best. Cheep insurance. Keep air filter changed as needed. Run it once a month with half load for 1 hour. Keeps moisture out thus preventing early failure .
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Old 08-09-2019, 05:05 AM   #11
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We're talking 4000 gas gen. With no oil filter. Use the best. Cheep insurance. Keep air filter changed as needed. Run it once a month with half load for 1 hour. Keeps moisture out thus preventing early failure .

Thanks, that was the plan.. I always do the oil .
I set reminder to 100 hours but if I run it 3 days straight hard she will get changed before next trip. . I use it atleast once a month. my off season is Dec to Feb so a fast start and run with an electric heater a few times will be easy.. Plus I can tinker inside and check for rodents L:OL
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Old 08-09-2019, 07:10 AM   #12
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The OP rig looks pretty new. Why would there be no oil filter for the Onan? My 1988 Onan 4k had one.
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Old 08-09-2019, 07:36 AM   #13
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Why not simply use what the unit calls for? It is a generator, nothing with exceptional work loads on it. Some way over think this entire oil thing.
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Old 08-10-2019, 09:52 AM   #14
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If it's air cooled I'd consider using synthetic oil.

Mine is a liquid cooled diesel gen. It get's 15-40 Rotella dino, same as the engine.
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