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Old 01-22-2008, 10:48 AM   #1
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I put a new heater control valve in the MH and it works much better but there still is some leakage of heat into the system when the heater is turned off.

So I am beginning to think that there must be some type of flow through the heater core when the valve is in the closed position allowing the heater core to provide some heat even during use of the AC.

To me a simple solution would be to add an electrically operated valve downstream of the heater core which would be normally closed and opened for heating.

A cheap way to do this would be to add a commercial quality sprinkler valve and put a switch on the dash. With the heater control valve off aND THEN THIS NEW VALVE CLOSED NO HOT WATER COULD ENTER THE CORE AND THE PROBLEM WOUD BESOLVED, CHEAPLY AND EASILY.
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:48 AM   #2
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I put a new heater control valve in the MH and it works much better but there still is some leakage of heat into the system when the heater is turned off.

So I am beginning to think that there must be some type of flow through the heater core when the valve is in the closed position allowing the heater core to provide some heat even during use of the AC.

To me a simple solution would be to add an electrically operated valve downstream of the heater core which would be normally closed and opened for heating.

A cheap way to do this would be to add a commercial quality sprinkler valve and put a switch on the dash. With the heater control valve off aND THEN THIS NEW VALVE CLOSED NO HOT WATER COULD ENTER THE CORE AND THE PROBLEM WOUD BESOLVED, CHEAPLY AND EASILY.
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Old 01-22-2008, 02:11 PM   #3
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Your idea sounds good to me, you do not want any hot water thru that heater core it will defeat the AC you want to cool yourself off.
I only have one ball valve in hose to stop hot water from radiator if that didn't work I would place a second valve in other hose.
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Old 01-23-2008, 10:25 AM   #4
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I found a relatively inexpensive solenoid valve for hot water applications. It's 24v but 12v should work just slower. I am going to do an experiment first and clamp off the heater core exit hose and see if that stops the hot air. If it does I'll install the solenoid.

Problem with most solenoids and hot water is the rubber seal usually has a 150 degree limit. Use the right rubber component and you have a hot water solenoid sold as such.
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Old 01-23-2008, 02:20 PM   #5
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Here's what has been done on some Workhorse chassis that have an AC problem. Scroll thru this thread Heater Valve Replace.
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Old 01-23-2008, 03:00 PM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by wilanddij:
Here's what has been done on some Workhorse chassis that have an AC problem. Scroll thru this thread Heater Valve Replace. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That's what I want to do but also to make it remotely operated. In the mountains and deserts here you can easily go from one extreme to the other in a matter of minutes and a remote operation would really help.

Thanks for the info and link, now I know it will work.
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Old 01-23-2008, 03:53 PM   #7
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I had the same problem. I was told to replace the electric valve but as you stated I still had the problem. After talking to the valve maker I found out there is a small inline board that is probably the problem. But instead of going that route I decided to get an inline shutoff for the 5/8" line to the core and put a manual shutoff line (similer to a manual choke cable)to the dash ,works great. Hope you find a solution.
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Old 01-24-2008, 07:37 AM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ro.co3:
I had the same problem. I was told to replace the electric valve but as you stated I still had the problem. After talking to the valve maker I found out there is a small inline board that is probably the problem. But instead of going that route I decided to get an inline shutoff for the 5/8" line to the core and put a manual shutoff line (similer to a manual choke cable)to the dash ,works great. Hope you find a solution. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Now I just have to order the valve and put it in but since it's 24 degrees here I am not doing nuttin. But I did get back in time though before the storm.
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Old 01-24-2008, 11:52 AM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ro.co3:
I had the same problem. I was told to replace the electric valve but as you stated I still had the problem. After talking to the valve maker I found out there is a small inline board that is probably the problem. But instead of going that route I decided to get an inline shutoff for the 5/8" line to the core and put a manual shutoff line (similer to a manual choke cable)to the dash ,works great. Hope you find a solution. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

After pricing the correct solenoid valve with the proper heat resistant seal I've decided to go the same route you did and ordered the parts online today.
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Old 01-25-2008, 09:49 AM   #10
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Glad to hear its going to work out for you. The company that made most of those controls is Evans Tempcon Ph# 616-361-2681 If your original coolant valve has been replaced the next thing thats usually bad is the RV218547 - PC Board (cable-less systems) thats the part #. As I had stated before I went with the inline coolant manual shutoff ,purchased at the local auto parts. Used a choke cable to the dash and evrything works great. If you havent been to the Evans Tempcon web I'd go there just to haveit in your favorites. Again good luck and let me know how it works out for you.http://evanstempcon.com/serviceparts.php
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Old 01-25-2008, 10:07 AM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ro.co3:
Glad to hear its going to work out for you. The company that made most of those controls is Evans Tempcon Ph# 616-361-2681 If your original coolant valve has been replaced the next thing thats usually bad is the RV218547 - PC Board (cable-less systems) thats the part #. As I had stated before I went with the inline coolant manual shutoff ,purchased at the local auto parts. Used a choke cable to the dash and evrything works great. If you havent been to the Evans Tempcon web I'd go there just to haveit in your favorites. Again good luck and let me know how it works out for you.http://evanstempcon.com/serviceparts.php </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I did go to their site immediately and saw nothing that looked familiar. My system was cable operated with a vacuum assist. I disconnected the vacuum assist because it was always on. I still have the heater control valve I replaced and it is very hard to operate here on my desk and binds easily. I think the new additional lever which probably would replace the vacuum portion of the old is going to work great. I think the purpose of the original lever control was to control the amount of heat, the new valve will shut it off. I might put it on the outlet portion of the core if there is room.
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