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Old 12-06-2013, 11:41 AM   #1
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Heater Hose Insulation

My chassis cab heater has never worked well, it blows only slight warm air. Iíve had it inspected and I am told there is nothing wrong with it. I read a recent article in an RV publication that says to remove the coolant filter to remedy the problem, but Freightliner tells me that my specific chassis has no such filter. They did tell me however that the heater hoses should have been wrapped with insulation from the factory, to prevent heat loss between the engine and the cab. My heater hoses have no such insulation, so I guess itís up to me to install it. Iíve searched the internet for an insulation wrap but Iíve come up empty. Anyone know where I could find such a product?

Thanks!

Craig
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:22 PM   #2
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any Lowe's or home depot look in the home heating section for water pipe wrap it comes in 1/2 to 2" dia. in 3 or 4 ft lengths just put a couple nylon ty wraps around it to hold it
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Old 12-06-2013, 01:09 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fountain42 View Post
any Lowe's or home depot look in the home heating section for water pipe wrap it comes in 1/2 to 2" dia. in 3 or 4 ft lengths just put a couple nylon ty wraps around it to hold it
!
Shop Frost King 1-1/2-in x 6-ft Foam Plumbing Tubular Pipe Insulation at Lowes.com

And/or fasten with Foil Duck Tape, (not cloth):
Shop Reflectix 2-in x 30-ft Reflective Foil Tape at Lowes.com

BTW my heater hoses are not insulated, (I don't think many are).
IMO, if/when traveling in temps of 10 degrees or colder the heat output of any dash heater in any coach is marginal at best.... because of the cubic feet area of the occupied space.

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Old 12-06-2013, 02:40 PM   #4
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Ok thanks guys. I was picturing some sort of foil type of insulation, as I figured the foam would melt from engine heat. Iíve never driven my coach in temps at or below freezing. Iíve tried using my heater in temps between 40 & 50 degrees, but the heat produced was marginal at best.

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Old 12-06-2013, 04:07 PM   #5
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Just a suggestion, but you might try to back flush the heater core. It won't cost you anything and it just might help.
My mother had a car a couple of years ago ('07 Pontiac) that I had to flush the heater core every year for some reason. I think it was just a poor design and somehow kept trapping junk in it.
Anyway, I would try it before I threw my hands up. I don't think the insulation is going to help, but it's worth a shot as it's a cheap fix if it does.
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Old 12-06-2013, 04:17 PM   #6
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Need to do a search on this forum-- lots of ideas about root causes and solutions. Here are a couple of things to check: 1-check the heater hose at the dash to see if heat is being transferred that far [might be a kink in the line]; 2-check to see if h-valve is opening to let hot water thru heater core; 3-make sure your A/C isnt working at the same time; 4-set air controls on Max A/C with temp turned to heat only [this will recirc/heat inside air and not try to heat outside air coming in]; 5-in really cold or hot weather, hang a shower curtain [designer if you like] behind the front seats to retain heat and cold in front cab.
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Old 12-06-2013, 07:59 PM   #7
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It has been found that by using well or city water it will react with the antifreeze. The solution is to use distilled water only with antifreeze.
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:57 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
Need to do a search on this forum-- lots of ideas about root causes and solutions. Here are a couple of things to check: 1-check the heater hose at the dash to see if heat is being transferred that far [might be a kink in the line]; 2-check to see if h-valve is opening to let hot water thru heater core; 3-make sure your A/C isnt working at the same time; 4-set air controls on Max A/C with temp turned to heat only [this will recirc/heat inside air and not try to heat outside air coming in]; 5-in really cold or hot weather, hang a shower curtain [designer if you like] behind the front seats to retain heat and cold in front cab.
Old Scout,

Iíve heard most of these before except for no. 4. Iíll give that one a try, thanks.




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It has been found that by using well or city water it will react with the antifreeze. The solution is to use distilled water only with antifreeze.
ccrider,

Deionized water works just as well. I use CAT extended life coolant thatís already pre-diluted with deionized water.

Thanks guys.

Craig
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:39 AM   #9
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It has been found that by using well or city water it will react with the antifreeze. The solution is to use distilled water only with antifreeze.
ccrider
Well and city water contain unwanted minerals...distilled water does not.
Unwanted mineral deposits can/will contaminate/clog your cooling system.
That is why only distilled water is recommended.

BTW, batteries can be ruined if the electrolyte is "topped off" with well/city water.

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Old 12-07-2013, 04:47 PM   #10
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BTW, batteries can be ruined if the electrolyte is "topped off" with well/city water.
UNLESS you use a deionizer. Deionozed water is approved by almost all battery manufacturers. I have used one of these water deionizer devices for years to not only rinse my coach spot free, but to top off my Trojan house batteries, using my garden hose. Works like a charm!

I got the idea from my youngest son who is a forklift mechanic. His shop uses a water deionizer to top off the industrial lead batteries used in all of their battery operated material handling equipment.

Most pre-diluted coolant contain 50% deionized water, as it's much easier to mass produce than distilled water, while providing the same benefits.

BUT, I think we got off topic here...LOL!

Craig
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Old 12-07-2013, 05:55 PM   #11
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Confused
I though the OP was referring to heat to cab not to engine. I found on ours 82 PA after we bought her that the piping or supply lines under the front hood that goes from the heater core to the defusers inside the MH was all full of I guess little mice holes and the Defroster supply's were split. Duct tape to the rescue.They are also exposed to the air coming in from the grill. burr
I saw at HD they have insulated lines (same size of current supplies) I am thinking replace the old bare supply lines with that. I really noticed a big difference how much more air flow comes out of the defusers inside after my "temporary repair". new ones would surely work. I am sure it will help out in the summer when the AC needs to run. I also use the MH furnace while under way. I like to drive comfortable like just a tshirt or sweatshirt and jeans (really shorts)

Good luck getting yours fixed
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:48 AM   #12
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UNLESS you use a deionizer. Deionozed water is approved by almost all battery manufacturers. I have used one of these water deionizer devices for years to top off my Trojan house batteries, using my garden hose. Works like a charm!
Craig
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Distilled water is under $1.00 a gal.
My house batteries need about 1/2 gal every 6-9 months.

How much is a water deionizer?

Mel
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:07 AM   #13
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Confused
I though the OP was referring to heat to cab not to engine.
I was Tim, but I thought it might be a good idea to insulate all of the exposed heater hoses, including where they drop down from the engine.

Craig
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:16 AM   #14
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Craig
Distilled water is under $1.00 a gal.
My house batteries need about 1/2 gal every 6-9 months.

How much is a water deionizer?
Mel,

Well I didn't originally buy it to maintain my batteries. I used it for rinsing down my motorhome for a couple of years before I realized that it made sense to use it for the batteries as well.

I don't use it on my batteries to save money, it's just more convenient than going to the store to buy distilled water. But, since you asked, I figure it costs me around 2 cents per gallon, LOL!

Craig
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