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08-10-2017, 11:45 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 13
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Help - Crack Near Window
All,
I came back from a recent trip and found this (see pic) crack on the top of the large window on the side of the motorhome. It almost looks like the window is sagging but I'm not sure whats going on here.
I'm thinking I can pull the window and get a better look but that's gonna be a pain since it's so dang large - maybe 36"x36" - heavy.
Has anyone seen this before? How should I proceed?
It's an old RV and I'm quite handy and willing to do any work myself.
There has been some delam I wasn't aware of prior to purchase (ignorance on my part, deceitful seller).
Any advice is appreciated.
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08-10-2017, 03:42 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Worcester Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,063
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Don't think that is a crack, looks like factory hole cut, window was not shimmed right on the bottom to raise the frame "to cover the hole cut". Or hole was cut wrong at factory. Take the screen and glass out of the window first (slide glass to Middle lift) pull bottom out first. Then unscrew the frame, take that out,clean all that silicon out. Put outside frame back in then shim it up untill frame covers entire hole. Take frame back out, tape or hot glue shims in place. The put bead of silicon around frameborder, carefully reinstall, permanently. The job done right should not see any silicon around the window!!! The silicon is hidden between the wall and window frame.
Done
__________________
2006 Fleetwood Bounder 35E Trek pure Trike, electric, 50 mile range, 7000 ,miles the get everything runner. To be toad list Done, Ford E450 toad. Stay & Play active brakes.
Full-time since 2018. LG 4.5 cu ft washer/dryer.
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08-10-2017, 04:27 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 13
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Oh that would make sense - the "cut" does look very clean. I've already pulled the overcab windows to seal them so I more or less know what to do here as well. Should I be using tome butyl between the frame and fiberglass?
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08-11-2017, 04:30 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdwardoCorn
All,
I came back from a recent trip and found this (see pic) crack on the top of the large window on the side of the motorhome. It almost looks like the window is sagging but I'm not sure whats going on here.
I'm thinking I can pull the window and get a better look but that's gonna be a pain since it's so dang large - maybe 36"x36" - heavy.
Has anyone seen this before? How should I proceed?
It's an old RV and I'm quite handy and willing to do any work myself.
There has been some delam I wasn't aware of prior to purchase (ignorance on my part, deceitful seller).
Any advice is appreciated.
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Plz update the signature area on your profile page to include info about your Rv.
__________________
01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L 5sp allison SW Wa,. Good Sam, SKP. RVM 198 AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. Michelins, TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '21MB GLA FWD on dolly
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08-11-2017, 02:39 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 509
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I'd use the butyl tape when reinstalling but I wouldn't use the silicon. get the proper RV caulk most say not to use silicon on your RV. Proflex etc.
__________________
2001 Sea View 31' F53 1 slide 8310 133,000+mi
2012 Jeep Liberty Smi stay and play Duo brake system
Security by Bentley, KF6HCH, God Bless
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08-11-2017, 08:26 PM
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#6
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"Formerly Diplomat Don"
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 23,914
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"EduardoCorn"......Hold on before you start pulling windows out. That is NOT a crack. When your window was originally installed, they used putty tape between the window and the coach. Once the window was installed, they used silicone along the top edge of the window and down the side a couple of inches......standard installation procedure.
What you're seeing is the silicone or Dicor, whichever they used, has cracked and the putty is oozing out. The putty will always collect dirt and turn black. All you need to do is remove the silicone and then use a dull knife around the edge of the window to remove the putty that has oozed out. Then use something like Oops to clean the fiberglass. When done, re-silicone the top and 2" down the side of the window.
__________________
Don & Mary
2019 Newmar Dutch Star 4018 (Freightliner)
2019 Ford Raptor
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08-15-2017, 04:42 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 13
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Sorry everyone it's been busy.
It's definitely not putty oozing out - the fiberglass is pulling away for sure. I was hoping you were right but it's not so.
So I have some Butyl tape on the way from Amazon - cheaper than local shops by half (!!) and once that comes in I'll start pulling the window and see what I'm dealing with. I'll update afterward
Thanks for all the advice so far!
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08-15-2017, 04:45 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAN L
Plz update the signature area on your profile page to include info about your Rv.
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Done! (I think)
__________________
1992 Rockwood Class C - 27'
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08-19-2017, 01:33 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 13
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So I just pulled the window and the problem is that the hole was cut incorrectly!!
There is no way this window will ever fill the hole completely. I'm pretty angry at the quality of the build, my ignorance when I purchased this and the absolute dishonesty of the RV sales company who didn't volunteer the extent of the delam which was pretty disgusting to see when I had the window out. Maybe 30% of the wall is solid.
Disgusting.
Sorry to rant.
Does anyone have suggestions on how to fill the holes around the window that the frame wont cover?
I'm thinking of using some sort of marine sealant and epoxy combo just to get a bit more time out of this thing before I strip it and sell off the parts.
Thanks for your advice.
__________________
1992 Rockwood Class C - 27'
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08-19-2017, 08:07 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,984
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Can you shim up the window in the opening so the frame can be attached to solid wall all the way around?
__________________
'04 Newmar Mountain Aire 4016
400ISL/Freightliner
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08-19-2017, 09:31 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance
Can you shim up the window in the opening so the frame can be attached to solid wall all the way around?
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No - the hole is too large. Shockingly when the unit was built they would have simply covered the hole with some sort of caulking. It is a pretty close fit top to bottom but if the window is centered side to side there are cracks on both the left and right sides. It's like they cut it too large and just decided to go with it. I hope the original owner got a discount but that seems unlikely.
__________________
1992 Rockwood Class C - 27'
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08-19-2017, 09:32 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Worcester Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,063
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If you can't beat em,, join em,,.Get a bigger window,,,and get the one you want. How do you know they didn't put the wrong window in from the start?
__________________
2006 Fleetwood Bounder 35E Trek pure Trike, electric, 50 mile range, 7000 ,miles the get everything runner. To be toad list Done, Ford E450 toad. Stay & Play active brakes.
Full-time since 2018. LG 4.5 cu ft washer/dryer.
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08-19-2017, 10:09 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Olympic Peninsula
Posts: 542
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If you choose to have a larger window built Home - Peninsula Glass Company has a Motion Window division that specializes in replacement RV windows. Check their site out they have measurement instructions, corner radius templates, dual or single pane, tint...the whole 9.
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