Help! Rusted Bolt on Shock

[F4Gary]

Originally Posted by NITEHAWK

Center punch, then drill as large a hole in the bolt as possible. Then just use some percussion persuasion from the side. The bolt will snap off.
I used to do Chrysler products shocks somewhat like that. I would centerpunch the crappy top nut, then drill a hole thru the nut and the top of the shock, then whack with a hammer. Snapped right off.

He got the nut off! He can't get the bolt out.

[Texastbird]

Used this at the plant and at home a few times. Heat, apply heat apply let sit....you get the idea.
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[clifford j]

I don't know about the exact application for the shock in trouble here but I've changed several hundred shocks in my automotive carrier. The nastiest problem is when the sleeve inside the rubber insert rusts fast to the mounting bolt/stud.
As a DIY guy you have to think outside the box and find or discover any tools, penetrating fluids ,etc to get the job done. Plus mussel power.

CLIFFORD

[brobox]

I have had success soaking saltwater seized bolts with JB Blaster over night then using an air chisel with the punch bit installed. The higher the volume compressor, the better.

[Randy125]

Not knowing how much room you have, might try heating where the bolt goes thru and putting dry ice on bolt then trying impact or sledging out.

[barmcd]

Are we sure its a bolt and not a stud?

[TeJay]

Here's two things that I learned a few years after I retired from doing this almost every day.

When using an extension with an impact wrench some of the applied torque is wasted twisting the extension. I'm sure this is also dependent on the quality of your extension. How did i learn this?? Well I didn't read it from a book and nobody taught me this in any class.

A few years ago while removing my RV lug nuts I had a few that just would not budge. I even waited until my compressor was to full pressure. After a time I stopped and had a cup of coffee. When I resumed I took the impact to a different tire with a stuck lug and for some reason took the extension off. Well the nut came loose. So I moved back to the others and they started coming off.

At first i didn't believe the extension made that much of a difference so I tightened one down with the torque wrench, added the extension waited for full compressor pressure and the impact would not remove it. I took the extension off and it worked.

All the years I've worked on cars/trucks and never discovered that. Yes I'm aware of torque sticks which do flex to control bolt torque.

Next item. A 50-50 mixture of Acetone and automatic transmission fluid has been laboratory tested on a series of stubborn/rusted bolts and nuts and worked much better than all of the other rust busters on the market. Since retirement I've had few times to really test it but keep a jar mixed up on the shelf.

FIREUP HI !! Nice video on the candle thing. That's another one to try. We've got a new TOAD for the RV. It's a 2000 Ford Ranger Trail Head edition and only made for one year. It's got 16" tires and alloy rims to make it look like a 4X4. Going to be bringing out all the info you sent me years ago on doing the wiring. Thanks again! I knew it would come in handy.

[Gerryl]

Here is the absolute best thing to use on rusted bolts and nuts.

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[Mike_Harriet]

Originally Posted by Gerryl

Here is the absolute best thing to use on rusted bolts and nuts.



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Kroil oil is basically acetone/trans fluid mixture. Not sure of percentages tho. It is great stuff, used it for years, but doesn't work any better than the home brew IMHO.

[vsheetz]

PB Blaster repeatedly over some period of time has allowed the most stubborn of bolts to be dismantled for me.

[Randy125]

So did you get the bolt out?

[Mixmoses]

Hit it with a can of Blaster last weekend. Didn't move an inch. I purchased more Blaster and will keep trying. That bolt almost seems like it has welded itself to the leaf spring. It's just crazy how frozen it is. I'll update my post after I try this over the next week.

[lonfu]

PB Blaster, do it every day, once won't work. Blaster, compressed air to force blaster into the stud/eye space, tap eye with hammer and chisel (don't hit hard). some times can take a week or so of doing this each day. Last resort is a chisel drivin' through the shock eye to release the pressure. Try not to damage the stud. then blaster.

[TeJay]

Hitting it with an impact will also shock it. Use the impact in both directions. The impact shocking will usually break the rust loose.

I think you mentioned using heat. That also works to cause expansion and shrinking. I've also used heat then cold water to cause sudden contraction.