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Old 03-14-2016, 07:09 PM   #1
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Holy Mackrel---Low water pressure

Wow-
50 psi on the water post and about 10 psi inside the coach.
With the fresh water pump turned on everything was normal.








Here is the city water connector on my setup--



Here is what I found-








It was all sand--

Just had to wash it all out and put a new "screen washer" in place. That little hummer (the screen washer) saved the day by protecting all the stuff downstream-

This came from a 3 day stay at a great military RV campground (off base) in South Carolina on their in-ground well water system.

Lesson learned- Place/use a screen washer at the water source hose hookup on the faucet/bibb post. Then it's an obvious one minute fix for a situation like I ran into.

I'll do that from now on- You can count on that!
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:16 PM   #2
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Wow! Thanks for the heads up. I think I took our screen out last year and forgot to replace it. I can see that was a very dumb decision on my part. I will certainly put it back.

I was also considering putting a water filter system in our service line. This looks like I have an even better reason to do that.

Great post.
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:20 PM   #3
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Wooooww!
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:39 PM   #4
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We had a problem with what appeared to be "low water pressure" in our coach ... it ended up been an issue with the faucet aerator/filters being clogged. I replaced the aerators and the problem was solved. Now, I keep a package of spares in my "spare parts kit"
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Old 03-14-2016, 08:51 PM   #5
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Max, I have a whole house water filter in the front of mine and a Watts house pressure regulator next before the water enters the coach. I also have a Y on the the water filter so I can run the black tank flush. I also have a check valve on the black flush. House filter after 1 year of RVing compared to a new one.



FYI - Your black water flush will run all the way to the bath room and back to the black tank flush and the FEDs mandated and air gap valve., which by the way will fail without warning a make a mess in the bathroom. Look for this under your sink.



His the fix for this piece of crap that failed not once but twice. DIY bypass.

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Old 03-14-2016, 09:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oemtech View Post

FYI - Your black water flush will run all the way to the bath room and back to the black tank flush and the FEDs mandated and air gap valve., which by the way will fail without warning a make a mess in the bathroom. Look for this under your sink.
Oh my goodness. I hope you realize that if your black tank got full and somehow you had a vacuum or unhooked your freshwater input, black tank water would be drawn into your fresh water system. You really do not want to recommend bypassing this critical anti-siphon valve.

We had the same problem with that vacuum breaker cracking and leaking all over the bathroom. But, I replaced it with a brass unit like this and have never had an issue since. I would strongly recommend that you replace your "workaround" with this valve.

I cannot even imagine bypassing anything that would prevent black water getting sucked into the freshwater system.
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Old 03-14-2016, 10:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob&AnnaMari View Post
Oh my goodness. I hope you realize that if your black tank got full and somehow you had a vacuum or unhooked your freshwater input, black tank water would be drawn into your fresh water system. You really do not want to recommend bypassing this critical anti-siphon valve.

We had the same problem with that vacuum breaker cracking and leaking all

I canover the bathroom. But, I replaced it with a brass unit like this and have never had an issue since. I would strongly recommend that you replace your "workaround" with this valve.not even imagine bypassing anything that would prevent black water getting sucked into the freshwater system.
I have an ANTI-SIPHON valve between the black water flush line and the fresh water line.
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Old 03-14-2016, 11:09 PM   #8
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I have an ANTI-SIPHON valve between the black water flush line and the fresh water line.
Ah, that is good.

On our rig the anti-siphon valve you show in your photo is the only vacuum break we have between the black tank flush and our fresh water. I suspect others may have a similar configuration.

But, now that I think of it, we also have a separate connection from the outside for our black tank flush. Nevertheless, a problem here could still get black water into the fresh water.
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Old 03-15-2016, 04:58 AM   #9
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I will put a "back flow preventer" into my set up--- Thanks for reminding me Oemy

And Oemy, My house filter looks exactly like yours does after about 2 years.

I'm just so thankful I had that small washer screen installed in the city water hook up.
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:01 PM   #10
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Thanx Max! Being a "newbie" RVer I appreciate hearing about things like this. Screen Washers will be added to the To Buy list for sure.
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:17 PM   #11
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I was at Dayton Tall Timbers a few years back. I hooked up my water lines and turned the thing on and my flow kept getting less and less. What the heck?

I found out that I was fed a bunch of sand and in no time at all it plugged up a new inline filter that I had just bought. The thing weighed a ton. (1st clue)

Practice now days is to always run my lines to a filter 1st before anything.

I have also experienced the dreaded plugged up screen at the water pump while on the road but so far its been fine.

Tomorrow ... FMCA Convention in Perry, GA. There were lots of MHs on the grounds when we passed. Tomorrow morning, I'll be filling our fresh tank and heading in. We also have 3 - 6 gallon containers for later in the week to shuttle water in from the water supply they have. There are several faucets here since they show animals and they're always needing water. "Georgia on our minds!
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:23 AM   #12
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Low water pressure

Here's an update-

I've added a "Back flow preventer" .








As we age () we learn more and more stuff--

Here are two things I've certainly learned about "Water Input" into my rig(s):

1- Never fill your fresh/city water tank with "Well water".
Sometimes we let our rigs sit around, not being used- for whatever reasons, for long periods of time and "untreated ground water" will grow "bugs, crud, crap, and create bad, bad odors" in a heartbeat !

I always use city water, which is treated by law in the US--- in my fresh water tank- All city water supplies contains some degree of chlorine to prevent tooth decay. This also prevents "bugs and odors" growing in your fresh water tank.

2- Use a screen filter washer early in the water hose hookup- setup. This little jewel will alert you that you have a problem with low water pressure early on- before you ruin a more expensive full house filter (see Drivers experience in thread #11 above). You can always use your on-board city water supply (and pump) until you can identify where the problem is coming from.

Stand by for more "Earned lessons learned" (by "the Max") in future episodes-- . They seem to come real easy for me-
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:09 AM   #13
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Chlorine is used to kill the "bugs" in the water. Fluoride is used for teeth health. Just saying.
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:17 AM   #14
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Black tank flush hose connection should have a check valve assembly in it just like the city water connection does

Always use 'screened washers' at hose connections....cheap/easy and prevents all that supply water trash from going inside your rig

Faucet aerators are usually clogged up by 'debris' (calcium/scaling) from water heaters so routine draining/flushing helps minimize
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