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Old 10-15-2009, 12:19 PM   #15
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I would suggest a brass nipple instead of galvanized. Teflon tape for thread sealing.
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Old 10-20-2009, 10:51 AM   #16
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im planing on the hot water drain upgrade to-day.has any one put valves on the low water drains on their mh
thanx brian j tncrusier
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Old 10-20-2009, 12:11 PM   #17
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has any one put valves on the low water drains on their mh
????? not sure what you are asking? ...or are your low water drains capped off?? Mine has a simple turn valve ...plastic or whatever that typical MH plumbing material is...

I noted one post about broken nylon drain plugs. I have had two break on me, one when I over tightened and one just started dripping one day. That is why I always replace the plug every other time I drain & flush the tank. They do get hard and less flexible over time. If one breaks off and leaves the threads in the hole, they are easy to get out if you just stick a broad blade knife (hunting knife, etc) into the remaining threads and twist it to unscrew them.
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Old 10-20-2009, 06:12 PM   #18
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It's easy to install half inch ball valve with a brass nipple. Once installed, give it a quarter turn and you're drainging much quicker and easier than having to remove a plug. Only modification I had to make to the valve to make it fit was to cut about a half inch off the end of the handle so it could be turned to the closed position without hitting the side of the water heater enclosure. It's one of the easiest and handiest improvements I've made to our rv.
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Old 10-21-2009, 09:29 AM   #19
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this forum is both knowledgable (spell ?) and friendly.thanx for yall
my next question on water h/water tanks is do you have to fill it w/antifreeze or is there some way to by pass it???
brianj tncruiser
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Old 10-21-2009, 09:42 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by tncruiser View Post
this forum is both knowledgable (spell ?) and friendly.thanx for yall
my next question on water h/water tanks is do you have to fill it w/antifreeze or is there some way to by pass it???
brianj tncruiser
Most water heaters have or should have a bypass kit which enables one to winterize without running 6-10 gals of RV antifreeze through it. If needed thaey can be ordered here Quick Turn By-Pass Kit - Item - Camping World
or here. RVUpgradeStore.com - Specializing in quality camper parts and RV parts and supplies Type by pass kit in the search box. Might as well get one of these to as the tank should be flushed 1-2 times yearly to get rid if calcium deposits, etc. http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index....OD&ProdID=1562
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Old 10-21-2009, 11:15 AM   #21
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I installed a HottShot electric heating rod in my Atwood water heater several years ago. That is a very nice addition and near the top on my list of best improvements. The metals are brass which screws into the water heater and stainless steel for the heating rod. Atwood does not recommend or endorse this modification but it works, and a Hott Shot rep says they have never had a problem reported. They will replace your water heater if a problem results form their electric heater. Of course the issue is dissimilar metals and electrolysis. That is a subject that has been debated a length on rv.net and posts are about 50-50 on the subject. I have saved much more than the cost of the Hott Shot and having hot water at all times is a huge plus.
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Old 10-23-2009, 11:06 PM   #22
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Hi Ho: I put a brass plug in our MH about 8 years ago after replacing the nylon plug a couple of times. No problems in 8 years. Another possibility is to simply blow the water out of the system using compressed air. This has also worked just fine for over 9 years now. Each has to figure what works best for him. I don't like the pink RV antifreeze very much and have never used it. Ethylene glycol works fine in the drains.

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Old 11-02-2009, 11:29 AM   #23
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I asked this question at an RV show and the reason for the nylon plug is that it does not expand with heat. With a metal plug there is expansion which could cause the case to crack around the plug. It made sense to me but I do not like the nylon plug but thats what I use.
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