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Old 06-30-2012, 09:19 AM   #1
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House and chassis batteries always linked

I have a 1999 Bounder. All batteries are tied together. I disconnect the chassis battery and can still start the motor home without holding the aux start switch. I disconnect the house batteries and all the coach lights work. After a few days all batteries are dead. Can anyone help?
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Old 06-30-2012, 10:16 AM   #2
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Sounds like the battery isolator solenoid is not working. With time they can become defective, staying energized all the time. The result is that both batteries are connected as one. It is simple fix, but make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. The purpose of the solenoid is to seperate the batteries. They should be connected while the chassis engine is running to charge both batteries and disconnected while idle. The switch is designed to momentarily connect the two for starting the chassis.
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Old 06-30-2012, 10:36 AM   #3
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Thank you so much. This is my first motor home so I have a lot to learn.
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Old 06-30-2012, 01:01 PM   #4
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You may also want to check the the battery isolator solenoid for an extra wire. You can jump the switch so all battries are connected by using a 12v jump wire. A lot of people do this when the chassis battery fails or is weak. It sounds like someone did this to yours because if the selenoid fails it usually disconnects the batteries.
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Old 06-30-2012, 04:08 PM   #5
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thank you all
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:33 PM   #6
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Norweiganlad......I'm guessing your isolator is under the front hood near your batteries. They're usually mounted very close to the batteries to save wire/size. Your isolator may look like this 120 Amp 2 Battery Isolator

One post is connected to your house batteries and one post is connected to your chassis battery. Basically, the center post is the one that links them together when you use the jumper or charging the batteries. The isolator is suppose to keep the two battery systems separate. It also selects which batteries get charged by how low they are. Yours has probably failed internally and has tied the batteries together internally.

Before you determine this is the problem, check that the push button on your dash that jumps the batteries together has not gone bad and is linking the batteries because it's shorted out. You can test it by disconnecting the wires to the jumper button and then see if your batteries are still linked by the test you did earlier (disconnecting one set and seeing if it's still operating things it shouldn't.
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Old 06-30-2012, 11:45 PM   #7
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It will not be the isolator it is the emergency start solenoid follow the pos cable from one of the batt.it will go to a small solenoid 1.5" in dia. pos cables hooked to each side small wire in center goes to emerg start switch on dash.. Un hook wire if the sol. clicks wire or dash switch is bad if it don't click unhook start cable and check terminal with a volt meter or continuity tester should have no voltage if it does the sol. is bad. As said above you may find a jumper wire remove it.
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Old 07-01-2012, 09:42 PM   #8
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Fleetwood uses a Battery Charge Control (BCC) circuit board to link the batteries using a solenoid as elmorc described.
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Old 07-02-2012, 12:48 AM   #9
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Half of my circuit board is corroded. Unfortunately it's the half with the battery switches. I'm going to replace the board and the solenoid so I won't have to worry. Thank you very much. Thank you to everyone who replied, it's nice to know that the irv2 community has your back.
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:29 AM   #10
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Finally got back to checking out my problem. It is not the circuit board or the solenoid. Going to check the switch next.
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:52 AM   #11
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I just realized I've got a similar problem in my coach. I usually have it on shore power 100% of the time while parked at home but unplugged it to allow for some landscaping in the area it's usually parked.

After just a week parked with nothing on all 3 (2 house & 1 chassis) battery were so low it barely started on it's own.

Without an in-depth look into it yet, the emerg. start switch causes a very definite clicking sound in the house battery bay, but who knows if it's actually doing anything (shorted closed and just the sol. making noise) or if it's even connected to the battery cables or just by-passed.
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:01 PM   #12
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It is also possible that the jump start solenoid is defective. I have seen the contacts weld together because the jump start feature was used and an excessive amount of current went through the solenoid. The contacts heated up and welded together.
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Old 07-19-2012, 02:20 PM   #13
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I was wondering about that. But if that happens does the solenoid still give the usual big clicking sound?

Mine sounds normal, in fact possibly even louder than normal.
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Old 07-19-2012, 02:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murf2u View Post
I was wondering about that. But if that happens does the solenoid still give the usual big clicking sound?

Mine sounds normal, in fact possibly even louder than normal.
Cannot say for sure, would depend on the design of the solenoid. The hammer may be moving, but the contacts could be frozen in the connected state.
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