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Old 06-19-2016, 12:21 PM   #15
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Old 06-19-2016, 12:24 PM   #16
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Thanks Gary I will give it a try.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:15 PM   #17
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You are correct. 2.5A is very high and will drain a battery relatively quickly. However, are you sure its 2.5 A. I ask because some meters are auto-ranging, and you might be seeing milliamps (mA) and not realize it. Just checking. 2.5 amps is 2 or 3 light bulbs on.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:39 PM   #18
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Go to a supply house (sears, Graingers) and buy a clamp on DC ammeter...it will still read a direction, but its just a matter of turning the clamp the other way.

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Old 06-19-2016, 11:08 PM   #19
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Be careful there as many clamp on amp meters are not worth a hoot for low current dc.

Even same model will vary with some.

Fluke 375 is real good for low current as we used them for remote radio heads on cell sites where we needed to measure less than an amp.

Consistent but price matched the model...

Most folks can get by with standard units as they likely need to clean the connections anyway.
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Old 06-19-2016, 11:15 PM   #20
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2.5 amps is 2 or 3 light bulbs on.

jt

2.5 amps at 12v is only 30watts!
Possible phantom loads:
LPG leak detector
CO2 detector
Fridge control runs on 12v (when using propane)
TV in 'stand by' mode
Invertor? (Even with no load)
12v plug-in usb socket?

Check for lights left on like aisle lights, under step exterior light, storage compartment lights.

You could also remove one fuse at a time from the 12v side of your power box to narrow your search.

Good luck!


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Old 06-19-2016, 11:54 PM   #21
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Turn off the steps. The steps have current flowing all the time and they stop because of an electronic current limiting switch. With the steps turned off remeasure the current draw. Many of the converter/chargers cannot keep up with 2 amps or more.

Yes, the leads were reversed to give the negative number.

Current flows from positive to negative, the reverse of the flow of charged particles. Think of current as a river - current flows downhill.

p.s., is your manual listed here: Manuals
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:36 AM   #22
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Current flows negative towards positive as it is electron flow and they are negative particled.

"Hole flow" is from positive to negative but that is old school transistor theroy.
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Old 06-20-2016, 07:38 PM   #23
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I set the amp meter to the ten amp setting, put one lead on detached negative cable and the other lead on the negative post of the battery. The digital readout showed 2.5. I assumed that meant amps. The strange thing to me is after switching disconnect on to isolate the battery from the coach, the reading only dropped to 2.18. I was thinking it should read zero. I only have one positive cable attached to the battery ( I took the smaller cables off temporarily) So one positive cable which dead ends at the disconnect and the negative cable detached for the amp draw test. Could this amp reading be false because I conducted the test immediatly after charging the battery? Should I have waited for the batteries voltage to rest?
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:13 PM   #24
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Sounds fine, timing does not matter.

Something else may still be connected.

First are you sure you are using proper switch?

Some have one for each battery.
Try this,
Disconnect ammeter and move wires to voltmeter configuration.

Attach voltmeter to positive post on battery being messured.

Leave ground disconnected.

See if anything operates which would indicate connected to battery.

Plug rv shore power in and see if voltage changes as that would indicate converter is still connected.
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:27 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyjt View Post
2.5 amps is 2 or 3 light bulbs on.

jt


2.5 amps at 12v is only 30watts!
Possible phantom loads:
LPG leak detector
CO2 detector
Fridge control runs on 12v (when using propane)
TV in 'stand by' mode
Invertor? (Even with no load)
12v plug-in usb socket?

Check for lights left on like aisle lights, under step exterior light, storage compartment lights.

You could also remove one fuse at a time from the 12v side of your power box to narrow your search.

Good luck!


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Not sure what you mean that its only 30 w. That is correct, but a 2.5 A draw is a tremendous IOD (ignition off draw). The OP is measuring chassis IOD. Once all the modules have timed out I would expect to see somewhere around 30 mA or less. A 2.5 amp draw will bring a battery down pretty quickly. I really wonder if he is getting a valid reading.

To the OP: To run an IOD test, you need to hook up a shunt wire as described by in a previous reply. A shunt wire is just a wire run between the disconnected neg cable clamp and the neg terminal of the battery. This allows current to flow normally. You will also have your meter hooked up as you describe - one lead on the cable and the other on the battery terminal. Now, let the system "go to sleep." The modules should time out in some period of time. I don't know how long, but probably after 10 min or so, every thing should be timed out. At that point, lift one end of your shunt wire and THEN take an amp reading. You should be seeing milliamps (mA). Look closely at your meter - many will auto range and it can be confusing as to what units are actually displayed. If you are truly seeing 2.5 A, then you have a problem or some lights are on or something. As mentioned in previous posts, you can isolate the offending circuit or circuits by pulling fuses one at a time and watching for the current draw to drop off. Hope this helps.
jt
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:46 PM   #26
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Yes I switched the disconnect off and I tested with a test light to ensure that the disconnect was working so effectively I have a battery not connected to anything. Is there a point in pulling fuses if the battery is not connected ( disconnect switch on )? With battery disconnect on it still shows 2.18 which is approx .30 of an amp difference to when the battery is connected. Perhaps that means I have a .30 of an amp draw ( not sure how many milli amps that is) fyi the coach is plugged into shore power but the convertor does not charge the engine batteries.
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Old 06-20-2016, 11:02 PM   #27
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A quick lesson in DC Theory

Just jump down to the summary for a very quick refresher.

Another interesting read on (Conventional) Current Flow.

Monacoach, don't worry about it negative or positive reading. The current was 2.5 amps. Just reverse the leads as someone suggested.
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Old 06-21-2016, 09:20 AM   #28
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Wait. Are we talking about the chassis battery, not the house battery?Different ball game. Close the doors, connect your ammeter, wait a minute or two, check if the current drops.

(Btw, I meant 'only 30W' as in it's easy to reach 30W of parasitic draw. I agree that 30W will drain a battery quickly)




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