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Old 10-21-2014, 07:58 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by mgscott4 View Post
I have purchased and used this one. It also works on my friends Military 2 1/2 ton truck. I don,t leave home without it.

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did I miss the price somewhere in the add ?
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:00 AM   #16
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had to click on the buy it now, it was $159
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:35 AM   #17
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I have purchased and used this one. It also works on my friends Military 2 1/2 ton truck. I don,t leave home without it.

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I just checked and the one mentioned above only comes with a 1 year warranty.

The one available at http://www.cheaterwrench.com has a LIFETIME WARRANTY.



Everything else being equal.....I'd buy the one with the longer warranty.

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Old 10-21-2014, 09:26 AM   #18
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I have purchased and used this one. It also works on my friends Military 2 1/2 ton truck. I don,t leave home without it.

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It won,t scratch alluminum wheels because it puts pressure on the adjacent lugnut, not the wheel.

It works good. My lugnuts are torqued to 435 lbs and I can loosen them with one hand once it is in position.

My problem is retightening. You don,t know the exact torque. There is a way to tighten then release the handle, when the handle springs back a half a turn it is close to 400 ft lb.

I have a torque wrench that goes to 250 ftlb that I use first, then I tighten them one more flat on the nut, this is close to 435. I have not had any problems using this method. I have had all 6 of my wheels off and on with this tool
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:15 AM   #19
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I use a 2 ft breaker bar and a 3ft piece of pipe.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:20 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by mgscott4 View Post
It won,t scratch alluminum wheels because it puts pressure on the adjacent lugnut, not the wheel.

It works good. My lugnuts are torqued to 435 lbs and I can loosen them with one hand once it is in position.

My problem is retightening. You don,t know the exact torque. There is a way to tighten then release the handle, when the handle springs back a half a turn it is close to 400 ft lb.

I have a torque wrench that goes to 250 ftlb that I use first, then I tighten them one more flat on the nut, this is close to 435. I have not had any problems using this method. I have had all 6 of my wheels off and on with this tool
Again that depends on the spacing between the studs. In all the examples shown the wheels have 10 studs. Our motorhome is built on the F53 chassis which only has 8 studs per wheel. I would be sure the arm can use a stud for support rather than having to use the rim itself before making a purchase.
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:26 AM   #21
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Multiplier

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CoachNet is the brand I use
I agree, I use them also. But when I was younger I carried a 20 ton jack and a 4' piece of pipe to slide over my 3/4", 2' breaker bar. Now a days and a little older and weaker I most likely would need a 8' piece of pipe!
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Old 10-22-2014, 07:04 AM   #22
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Do you think it will damage/scratch aluminum wheels?
This style does have a much larger multiplication factor.

Dan

try this>>>>>>

http://www.grainger.com/product/KEN-TOOL-Rim-Guard-2WFN4?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/2WFN4_AS01?$smthumb$

it slips over the lugnuts when you're working on them so as not to scratch the wheel
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:32 PM   #23
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Well Gang,
I purchased one like the "cheater wrench" quite a while ago and it works absolutely flawless. It DOES NOT damage any portion of my aluminum wheels when I'm using it. The coach is an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 CAT and, the Freightliner XC Evolution chassis. The lug nuts are torqued to 450 ft. lbs.

The version I bought has a 75:1 gear ratio. I can sit on one of those small, mechanics roll-a-round chairs and, with one hand/arm, break all ten of those lug nuts loose. It does take a few revolutions with that tool but, I'm in no hurry. Start to finish, that is from the time I start on the first lug nut, to the time the wheel is ready to come off the hub, is right at 10 minutes.

I think I paid right at $150.00 or so on ebay and again, that was a while ago, maybe a couple of years. Now, as for tightening them back up, I purchased a perfectly fine working, Proto, 650 lb. clicker, 3/4" drive torque wrench off ebay for $75.00 and, it works flawless at re-torqueing those lug nuts to 450 ft. lbs. Using Coach net or AAA or, any other ERS has no bearing on this for home maintenance. This type of tool is primarily for the ones that want to do there own maintenance or, possibly change a tire/wheel on the road, it' up to them.

I carry that tool on the coach but, I'm pretty sure I'll never use it to change a flat tire since, we have no tire to change to. It's only on board in case for some odd reason, I have to remove a tire/wheel for some sort of strange repair that will help me get back on the road.

But, if one would acquire the adapters, you can use a smaller, say, 250 lb. clicker torque wrench and, in combination with that "cheater wrench" torque multiplier, re-torque them to the proper amount. All that's needed is to calculate what kind of torque is needed on that smaller wrench, applied to that torque multiplier, to get the proper torque you need for your particular wheels. In many cases, it might be as little as 5 lbs. of torque to get the 450 lbs because of so much gear reduction in those types of torque multipliers. It would be fun to actually know what's needed.
Scott
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