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Old 01-18-2008, 12:24 AM   #15
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our 2002 beaver santiam is on a rr8r chassis. we've never had much if any wind noise but we did have some squeaks and ratles until we kept picking away at them until most all are gone.
the two biggest were interior window frames and the 90lb. tv up front! the windows we took care of by loosening all the interior frames and spraying silicone spray around them. then repalaced our front tv with a 22lb lcd. and last changed our monroe shocks to koni fsd's they made a vast inprovement in the ride and keeping the interior much quieter jim

Jim & Sue
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Old 01-18-2008, 02:52 AM   #16
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Just moved from a Class C to a gas puller Class A. Still amazed at how quiet the gas puller is. I guess all things are relative.

2008 Itasca Sunstar 32 K

2005 Honda Element
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Old 01-18-2008, 04:50 AM   #17
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Chassfm 11,
As these coaches get older and pile up miles, the entrance door gets "warped" from the latch area-- vertically. They "bow" out. That creates excess wind noise. You can minimize this noise, or reduce it, by a little bit of "innovative engineering". Get two fairly big guys, a little person, a step ladder and a piece of 2 X 4. The 2 X 4 should be about 8" long. This is what you'll do:

1- Place the piece of 2 X 4 in the latch area (the 2" part between the frame and the door). Have the little person hold the door firmly closed with the 2 X 4 wedged in. I guess you could use duct tape if a little person isn't available.

2- The two big guys, one on the stepladder, and one near the ground, PUSHING and flexing the door back to its orignal straight shape. It'll take a little bit of work but it will improve the seal on the door------- If the door had 3 latches, one on top, one in the middle, and one on the bottom we wouldn't have these problems.

Good luck,
Max H,
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, 37', 3778, W-22, 8.1 Vortac, Ultra Power upgrade, CAI (cold air intake), Taylor wires, colder plugs, Koni shocks.
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Old 01-18-2008, 06:03 AM   #18
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I'm well pleased with my 2003 GS gasser F-53. I get very little wind noise. As others have said, the engine noise is loud when it downshifts, but other than that, it's quiet. Having previously had a 1985 Winnie Chieftain, this is super quiet!

The Winnie had a drivers door (my GS does not)and I cut down on the wind noise from the door by installing a barrel bolt at the top of the door to keep it from flexing out. Worked very well and cheap fix too. Before the fix, I could see light thru the seal while driving.
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Master Tow dolly
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Old 01-19-2008, 08:04 AM   #19
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For those with front engined motorhomes I highly recommend adding a hood liner to your dog house cover. We purchased a "Dynamat" cover and are very pleased with the results it produced in noise reduction. The difference in sound level inside while traveling is very noticable, and it didn't cost much and was easy to apply!
Steve & Nancy
2005 Itasca Sunrise 33', W20 Chassis, Ultrapower, Henderson Trac Bar
2012 Chevy Captiva Sport AWD, ReadyBrute Elite Tow Bar, Blue Ox Base Plate, Protect-A-Tow
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Old 01-20-2008, 07:02 AM   #20
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Squeaks and Rattles drive me nuts.
I go after them like killing snakes.

But, there's one I cannot get get a handle
on--I want to be able to slide open the
driver's and pass. window without opening
the screen. With the screen shut, it rattles
in the opening ??
Steady Eddie/1999 KSCA 3357/P12 Chassis/454 Vortec L-21

Allison transmisson
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Old 01-20-2008, 06:40 PM   #21
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Many of the windows (driver and passenger) have a drain slots at the bottom of the window frames on the outside of them to allow water to drain out of the channel the sliding window sits in. These slots can cause a lot of wind noise. My 2005 Itasca Sonova had them and they drove me crazy. Same noise as the ringing in my ears. I blocked one slot at a time with duct tape until I found the one on each side that was causing 90% of the noise.I then blocked that one with silicone sealant. I would not block them all. I now have a 2007 Diesel bounder that has the same slots in the windows but they have a plastic vent cover over them so you do not get the noise but it still drains.And no wind noise.
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Old 01-21-2008, 11:20 AM   #22
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I get from your OP that the noise is wind noise. If your cockpit window frames have outside weep slots, they are causing wind noise. Go here to see a picture of how I eliminated the noise. The weep hole on the left has been covered with electrical tape. The hole on the right is covered with a weep hole plastic cover. The rear weep hole must remain open to allow water to escape the frame, to the outside of the coach.
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Old 02-01-2008, 05:40 AM   #23
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I taped off the noisy window drains and was suprised how much wind noise that stopped. Now I have noticed 2 more loud areas.

1) The wind noise around the door, going to try some weather strip.
2) The frames around the windows creak a lot.

I am going to try lube around the frame. Does anyone have other ideas to stop the creaking ?

Also thinking about some suspension upgrades to soften the ride, Koni Shocks & Kelderman Air Ride.
Rich & Michelle
2014 Journey 42E
Chip & Dale, our kitties
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:08 AM   #24
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Thanks for all of the suggestions.

I need to find those weep hole covers and will try your solution Gary. I will also check the level and plumbness of the entry door.

RV Wizard:

Our Sun Voyager Bus has a very similar shape to your GS Scenic Cruiser. I didn't know GS wind tunnel tested their designs. I have the windshield guys scheduled to come back out and replace the inner locking strip with a new piece(s) since they tried to re-use the original and it is shrinking. I have noticed that my entry door gasket has some tears in it so I will get some and replace it. The only problem is that it runs $5 per foot from the auto upholstery shop so that is about $92...

I will also check on the foam insullation around some of the generator side interior panels and see if there are any small gaps that need re-foaming.

Thanks again to all and I'll post the results the next time we are out with the DP.
1998 Gulfstream 36' Sun Voyager Bus Platinum
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:09 AM   #25
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"..2) The frames around the windows creak a lot.

I am going to try lube around the frame. Does anyone have other ideas to stop the creaking ?.."

My Newmar window frames also creak..they REALLY sound off when cold. As they warm up, while driving, they tend to shut-up. To quiet them down here's what I did: I used a 59-cent squirt-gun and Turtle Wax Formula 21 liquid tire protectant in it.
GENTLY squeeze the trigger (think dribble) all along the top edge of the inside window frame to apply the sauce and let it run down in behind the window frame. Keep a towel handy to wipe up any run-away excess sauce. You will treat the mating surfaces of the top and both sides of the window frames. The bottom of the frame gets left out of the treatment. The window frames on my rig have been over-tightened by the Original Owner, so that tells me that he too, fought the noisy window frame battle, but he did not know, or understand, that they DO move in the cut-out opening. Using the squirt-gun/F21 Method, you do not even need to loosen the mounting screws...
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:39 AM   #26
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Shouldn't you have some sealent along top of window frame to keep out the water that maybe running down the frame and swelling up your wallboard inside.
98KSCA, 99MACA, 03 KSCA-3740- 8.1 Chev-- ALLISON Trans, now in good hands
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:53 AM   #27
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I never even thought about the weep holes. I will check that on the way home from work tonight. Thanks
2008 Itasca Sunstar 32 K

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Old 02-01-2008, 08:06 AM   #28
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I never even thought about the weep holes. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Be sure to leave one open, or a small portion of one or more.

Adios, Dirk - '84 Real Lite Truck Camper, '86 Wilderness Cimarron TT, previously 4 years as a fulltimer in a '07 DSDP

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