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Old 10-22-2011, 02:50 PM   #1
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How to Blow-out Lines for Winterizing???

Good Afternoon All,

We are sitting here thinking about how to winterize our new baby. We have always used the pink juice to winterize our Newmar and it was relatively easy. The Kountry Star had a winterizing intake tube and pump in one of the bays...just stick the intake tube into gallons of winterizing fluid and hit the water pump...Easy as pie!!!

Now we have a 2005 Revolution and it has no such mechanism as we had in the Newmar. So, I gather that if I want to use the pink stuff, I need to get it into the fresh water tank and pump it up and through the RV from there...Is that correct?

My dilemma is that we normally RV into the early winter and then winterize in mid to late November and wait patiently for April to arrive in the Northeast to start camping again. This year however, we are planning on heading to Florida for a month in January. I hate to get the pink stuff in in November and then dump it out again in January as we hit warmer climates on our way South. I was thinking of blowing out the lines instead this year, but I do not know how to do it.

Please be patient with this knucklehead and explain in detail how I can accomplish this safely without wrecking something or running the risk of missing something and bursting a pipe. OR..... In the alternative, should I just use the darn pink stuff and winterize,... then de-winterize...and then winterize again when we return to the frigid Northeast in February...???

Any and all opinions and advice would be gratefully accepted.

Faith
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Old 10-22-2011, 03:19 PM   #2
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If you just want to blow out your lines, open water valves and drain system,and water heater. I made a fitting with where one end has a air quick connect and the other has a male hose end. After draining water turn your water heater bypass valves. I turn on the air pressure to 25psi and open each faucet one at the time till air comes out. You will need to pour the anti freeze in all the drains including the toilet. You need to flush and drain tanks before adding antifreeze. For extra insurance then I run the antifreeze thru the lines better be safe than $$$$$$$.
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Old 10-22-2011, 03:22 PM   #3
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I made one myself but I think you can buy a connection to hook up a compressor via a tire valve fitting to your street water connection. Then using a cheap 12V tire inflator pump connected to the water system pumped it up to 10lbs or so and opened faucets & stuff until they spurted air.

Disclaimer though. We did this prior to pumping the pink stuff in to insure it was full strength since it gets -10 here like it must where you are.

I bet with some fittings and a couple of shut offs you could make yourself a bypass to pump the antifreeze though. I'm surprised your new rig doesn't have one.
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Old 10-22-2011, 03:30 PM   #4
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I assume you have seen or own the air fitting that will connect to you city water fill line. If not you will need to purchase one. Almost all RV stores will carry them. Obviously you will need and air compressor capable of generating 40 psi.

Worldwide Merchandise Company - Blow Out Hose - Winterizing - Camping World

Camco Mfg Inc - Blow-out Plug - Winterizing - Camping World There is a brass version of this plug which I use just couldn't find the link. I also have the version that will allow you to attach a 1/4" NPT female air fitting. The one shown will allow to use a regular tire inflator tip, maybe more common around the home garage.


Here is my basic procedure for using air pressure vs. anti-freeze. This is for a Safari Cheetah. Your coach may be somewhat different. Hopefully this gives you some ideas.

I still pour a bit of anti-freeze in the P-traps and tanks to protect the tanks valves.

Your owners manual should have a winterization procedure in it.

Note the steps below do not cover additional appliances like washer/dryer combos, ice makers etc.... The OEM manuals for those appliances should have winterization details in them.


Using Air Pressure
1 Access to an air compressor and an adapter to connect the air line regulator to the water system is necessary. Air adapters used for winterization are available at RV supply locations. Air pressure should not exceed 40 PSI. Higher pressure can damage the lines.
2 Empty and flush the holding tanks.
3 Disconnect the water line connections on either side of the water filter bowl head. Connect the bypass hose to the water lines. Unscrew filter bowl, remove old cartridge and empty any remaining water in the bowl. DO NOT screw filter bowl back onto filter head (see “Water Filter”). the water lines.
4 Drain the fresh water tank by opening the fresh water tank drain valve and the fresh water tank low point drain. Open the water pump shut-off valve. All are located in the roadside water service center.
5 Open hot and cold water low-point drains. Open secondary ice maker low point drain valve (if equipped). All are located in the roadside water service center. Leave low point drains open until the motorhome is used again.
6 Add in OEM instructions for various appliances like washers, ice makers, etc...here
7 Turn the water pump on for 30 - 60 seconds and allow it to run so that all the water is cleared out of the pump and water tank.
8 Turn the pump off.
9 Close fresh water tank low point drain valve, water pump shut-off valve, hot and cold water low point drains and secondary ice maker low point drain.
10 Leave open fresh water tank drain valve and secondary ice maker shut-off valve.
11 Open the water heater exterior access door. Open the high temperature/ pressure relief valve to vent water heater. Remove water heater drain plug to allow water heater to drain. When water has finished draining, replace water heater drain plug and close pressure relief valve.
12 Locate bypass valve at back of the water heater and move valve to BYPASS position.
13 Connect an air hose with regulator to the City/Fresh Water Fill connection. Position the City/Fresh Water Control lever to the “City Water” position. Set regulator to 40 PSI and turn on air compressor. Do not exceed 40 PSI in the water lines and faucets.
14 When water stops flowing from low point drain valves, open all faucets - including outside faucet and shower, one at a time, until air comes out. Do not forget to drain the shower faucet.
15 Hold toilet mechanism open until the water has stopped running.
16 Shut off the air compressor and disconnect the air hose.
17 One gallon of FDA approved RV antifreeze is needed to protect various water drain lines in the motorhome. Pour 1 pint into both the kitchen and bath shower drains. Pour 2 pints into the bath sink drain. This will protect the P-traps with some of the antifreeze going into grey tank to protect the drain valve. Open the toilet bowl valve. Pour another 3 pints into the toilet, letting the antifreeze run into the black tank to protect the valve located there. If applicable, pour the last pint of antifreeze into the washer/dryer drain after the toilet bowl valve has been closed.
18 Use a soft cloth to wipe out the sinks and shower (after the antifreeze is poured in) to protect the surfaces from stains.
19 Leave the low-point drains open until the motorhome is used again.
20 WARNING When draining the low point water drain lines and the water heater be sure the water is not hot. Hot water from the lines can burn or injure skin.

If you have a friendly service guy ask him to walk you through the process the first year.
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Old 10-22-2011, 04:25 PM   #5
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I'm also thinking about just blowing out the water lines. This will be my first winter with the knight, and I do want to make sure nothing is damages. I do have a good air compressor.

My "blower nozzle" will fit right into the low point drain hoses and pressurize the system with air.

Kinda wondering about the logic of blowing "UP"?

Wouldn't it make more sense to somehow connect to the faucets and blow the water down?


The directions above look pretty good.
My coach has a full water filter, I'll take the filter element out, dump any water, and screw the housing back on while I "blow", then probably take the housing off for storage.
The knight also has a full size filter for the ice maker / fridge water, need to remove that filter too.

draining the ice maker, particularly the solenoid valkve, is a concern of mine.
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Old 10-22-2011, 04:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimM68 View Post
I'm also thinking about just blowing out the water lines. This will be my first winter with the knight, and I do want to make sure nothing is damages. I do have a good air compressor.

My "blower nozzle" will fit right into the low point drain hoses and pressurize the system with air.

Kinda wondering about the logic of blowing "UP"?

Wouldn't it make more sense to somehow connect to the faucets and blow the water down?


The directions above look pretty good.
My coach has a full water filter, I'll take the filter element out, dump any water, and screw the housing back on while I "blow", then probably take the housing off for storage.
The knight also has a full size filter for the ice maker / fridge water, need to remove that filter too.

draining the ice maker, particularly the solenoid valkve, is a concern of mine.
I don't think I would "Blow Up" I would attach to the city water fill so that the low point drains remain low point drains. Just my 2 cents
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Old 10-22-2011, 04:43 PM   #7
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I have been using pressurized air to 'blow out' my system for years now (-40 degrees here sometimes). Only use the red stuff in the drains (save your fuel money). As above, except I put red stuff in the toilet so that the rubber gasket does not ever dry. I disconnect the water line behind the fridge (icemaker) at the solenoid until air comes out. I run the washer/dryer on 'warm' until I hear the air. Don't forget to drain the hot water tank.
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:04 PM   #8
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Where I live, a gallon of the pink RV Antifreeze costs $2.69 (at Mill's Fleet Farm). I buy 2 gallons which is more than enough to winterize my plumbing system. I first do the low point drain. I then drain the water heater and, with the plug open, hook up an air compressor at 40psi and blow water out of the heater. I then flip the heater bypass valve and blow each faucet, toilet, and both showers. I could stop there, but I now put my siphon tube into a jug of pink stuff and pump it through the system opening one faucet at a time. I let it run till the pink stuff comes out (and goes into the appropriate trap). Then I "toggle" the water heater bypass quickly (1 second) to get pink stuff from the bypass valve into the heater. Finally I turn the pump off, depressurize by turning on the outside shower and, with very little pressure, press in the valve on the City Water fill so pink stuff comes out there too. (Do that under pressure and you get soaked! Ask me know I know!) That should have the pink stuff throughout all the plumbing, a little in each trap, and a little in each tank to protect the valves.
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:16 PM   #9
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If you already blown the water out of the pipes pls tell why you would put the red stuff in (air won't freeze). And then you have to rinse the pipes in the spring. Is there something I'm missing??
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:34 PM   #10
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I use the pink stuff after blowing out the pipes to protect the P=Traps (low lying areas by design), tank valves which will always have a small amount of water, and the toilet bowl seal.
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:37 PM   #11
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Yep, I do too, (see post 7). My question is why do you need to fill the pipes up to the faucets?
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:43 PM   #12
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Most who blow out and use the pink stuff believe there's chance that some water may pool in low points through out the plumbing system. The air pressure may not get all the water out.

I've been doing both the last 4 years, and never had a problem. I guess you could call it belts and suspenders.

Safe journeys to you.
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:49 PM   #13
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Yep, I do too, (see post 7). My question is why do you need to fill the pipes up to the faucets?
I don't, I use less than a gallon. Mostly to protect the valves in my tanks which are capable of trapping water.
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:13 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill M View Post
Most who blow out and use the pink stuff believe there's chance that some water may pool in low points through out the plumbing system. The air pressure may not get all the water out.

I've been doing both the last 4 years, and never had a problem. I guess you could call it belts and suspenders.

Safe journeys to you.
That was my thought on it. The price of the pink stuff was worth the peace of mind. Maybe overkill but worked and I didn't worry about it. I still prefer driving it somewhere warm though.
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