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Old 10-30-2015, 12:38 PM   #1
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How to find the source of a leak?

This past rain I noticed a leak on the passenger side front windshield. I've looked on the roof and can't find anything that looks like the source. I did notice that the silicon around my top marker light was in poor condition. Could this be the source of an inside leak? Or can anyone suggest places to look on the roof that could be the source of a leak that shows up near the left side above the front windshield? Thanks.
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Old 10-30-2015, 01:09 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewg1022 View Post
This past rain I noticed a leak on the passenger side front windshield. I've looked on the roof and can't find anything that looks like the source. I did notice that the silicon around my top marker light was in poor condition. Could this be the source of an inside leak? Or can anyone suggest places to look on the roof that could be the source of a leak that shows up near the left side above the front windshield? Thanks.
Marker lights front and rear are the most common source of leaks on a coach. Unless someone has worked on your coach previously, I doubt the markers are sealed with Slicone. Typically they are done with Putty.
I replaced all of mine a couple years ago because a couple of them were not working and I had a dribble down the inside of the windshield while traveling in rain. The replacements were not expensive so rather than go half way, I just did them all at the same time.

When I installed the new ones, I made sure the surface was clean, applied a generous amount of Marine Grade Clear Slicone to the back of the fixture and to the surface Behring the light, run the mounting screws in to bring the light within an 1/8" or so from seating, wiped off the excess Silicone and left them at that.
No more leaks to date.
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Old 10-30-2015, 01:19 PM   #3
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Thanks for the comment, I really hope that maker light was my problem. Will let you know.
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:17 PM   #4
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I never use silicone to seal my RV. It will not hold long-term. I use Dicor non-sag sealant, or similar product.
Anyway, back to your question. The best and surest way to locate water leaks is to contact an RV service center that uses a SealTech leak detection system.
We bought a new 5er in 2005. The first rain, we discovered water dripping near the rear window. When the dealer used the SealTech machine, the technician found the leak over 20' from that window. He continued his leak search and found 3 more tiny leaks I had not discovered. He cleaned and sealed those leaks, re-started the SealTech machine to re-check for leaks and found none. That 5er never had another water leak in the 8 years we used it from coast to coast, both East and West, and North to South, about 80,000 miles.
Leaky clearance lights. On our first 5er I found a long-term water leak had ruined a wall. When searching for the source I discovered a clearance light half-full of water. The lens was filling with water to the wiring hole, then running into the wall because the hole was open, and the light base was sealed to the RV exterior, leaving no place for water to run downhill but the wiring hole.
I sealed the hole with putty, then drilled a 1/8" hole in the bottom of each lens on the 5er. Never had another leak from a clearance light.
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:53 PM   #5
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x2 on the marker lights. I had the same problem with my Itasca because the foam gaskets under the lights were all the seal they had. Those had hardened and compacted down over the years. A bit of Dicor sealant under and around each one took care of the problem.
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Old 10-31-2015, 04:05 AM   #6
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A seal-Tec or similar duct blower system can find stubborn leaks. Soapy water on the outside will reveal leaking areas. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:49 AM   #7
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A seal-Tec or similar duct blower system can find stubborn leaks. Soapy water on the outside will reveal leaking areas. Good luck and keep us posted.
Watched tech at foretravel pressure test a coach and he found four spots where soap bubbles came out of rig. He put selfleveling clear sealant on and retested. Several of the windows had bubbles along glass but not on frames, he said you can not get the two pieces of glass to completely seal but water does not seem to get in.

He told me if you try this remember we only have about 4 lbs pressure so do not blow out windshield...
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Old 11-01-2015, 06:26 PM   #8
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Went to camping world today and bought both non sagging and self leveling Dicor. Went up on the roof and resealed all seals. Rain is coming tomorrow here at Myrtle beach, I'm hoping I sealed the source of my drip. Guess I'll find out in the next 2 days. Thanks to all who recommended the Dicor product.
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Old 11-03-2015, 04:50 PM   #9
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The rain came and so did my leak. Although not as bad as before I put down the Dicor. So when the rain stops back up I go with multiple tubes of Dicor and will redo all the seams. For a roof that looks new it hard to believe there's a leak. Does anyone know how to pressurize a coach without going to a commercial business?
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Old 11-06-2015, 06:12 PM   #10
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The rain came and so did my leak. Although not as bad as before I put down the Dicor. So when the rain stops back up I go with multiple tubes of Dicor and will redo all the seams. For a roof that looks new it hard to believe there's a leak. Does anyone know how to pressurize a coach without going to a commercial business?
I saw a guy try with shop vac blower and foam and driver window He used a lot of soap and water to look but he did find his leak in front cap seam and no where near where water was showing up inside rig
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Old 11-07-2015, 03:42 AM   #11
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Not unless you have a duct blower. High volume, low pressure machine.
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:38 PM   #12
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GE 100% Silicone II clear

Great product for places where you want something clear.

It sticks great and spreads great. Has stayed intact and flexible on exposed areas of my sunroom for over a decade with no peel back or shrinkage. Readily available at big box stores in small tubes or large caulking gun refills.
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Old 11-16-2015, 12:38 PM   #13
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Another product I have used and replaced successfully after painting the rig over the years.

Geocel Proflex Clear.
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Old 11-18-2015, 11:25 AM   #14
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Does anyone know how to pressurize a coach without going to a commercial business?
And without blowing out the front window? If you put 4 psi in the rig, and your split front window is 4' tall and 5' wide, you have 4psi on (48"x60"=) 2880 square inches! That's alot of pressure! Oh, you have a one piece front window? Double that to just under three tons! I know from experience that 15 psi is the limit on a C-130 and it is built to have significant differential pressure. And the F-4 and F-16 maintain 5psi differential in the cockpit , again, on a structure that is built for differential pressure. Can you feel 15 psi, vs 4 psi, vs 1.5 psi? And to measure differential pressure you must be able to measure inside and outside pressures and compare the two.

From the SealTech site:
"Because of the large surface areas involved, and the numerous routes for air to escape a typical RV, the SEALTECH 43O-R is engineered and built to produce high air flow, but only to safe nominal pressures."

Me?? I'd let them do it. I'm sure their insurance will reinstall my front windshield if they overpressurize my rig.
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