HWH 625 leveling system motor will not engage

[fatboybates]

Jacks are stuck up, slides are stuck out. We have gone over the circuit board and replaced all the fuses and checked the relays. We have checked all in line fuses and ground wires. We have power to the motor and the coils. We are plugged in and batteries are good. We are in park with park brake engaged. The drivers seat is all the way forward. Waiting for a call from HWH because we still have one light out and one light flashing on the circuit board. Until we hear from HWH is there anything else we can do? My theories are I need a new circuit board or my hydraulic pump motor is fried.

[PJStough]

Originally Posted by fatboybates

Jacks are stuck up, slides are stuck out. We have gone over the circuit board and replaced all the fuses and checked the relays. We have checked all in line fuses and ground wires. We have power to the motor and the coils. We are plugged in and batteries are good. We are in park with park brake engaged. The drivers seat is all the way forward. Waiting for a call from HWH because we still have one light out and one light flashing on the circuit board. Until we hear from HWH is there anything else we can do? My theories are I need a new circuit board or my hydraulic pump motor is fried.

Are you saying that the motor runs, but wont engage the pump, or that the motor will not run?

[FleetMan]

If the hydraulic pump motor will not run, get your test probe, ground one lead and probe/touch every contact on the two solenoids mounted on the motor. The HWH system requires the electrical circuits to be properly grounded. I had a similar problem, HWH Tech Support talked me through the solenoid grounding exercise which revealed an electrical problem inside one of the solenoids. The pump motor activated when I probed the solenoid terminal with a broken wire inside. A new Trombetta solenoid cured my problem. Hopefully, your problem is that simple too.

[Skip426]

Welcome to iRV2

Sorry you're here with problems.

When you say you have "power to the motor " do you mean the main cable at the motor checks for 12 volt power when the system calls for the pump to run ?

If so you may have a bad internal ground in the motor at the ground side brush plate, I've had to repair two HWH system motors for this issue and posted pictures of the repair.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/hwh-p...re-240908.html

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by fatboybates

Jacks are stuck up, slides are stuck out. We have gone over the circuit board and replaced all the fuses and checked the relays. We have checked all in line fuses and ground wires. We have power to the motor and the coils. We are plugged in and batteries are good. We are in park with park brake engaged. The drivers seat is all the way forward. Waiting for a call from HWH because we still have one light out and one light flashing on the circuit board. Until we hear from HWH is there anything else we can do? My theories are I need a new circuit board or my hydraulic pump motor is fried.

You don't say what make/model/year/chassis your coach is. The HWH system also utilizes the Parking brake to supply a ground to the system for proper operation. And, in a diesel unit, that means setting the parking brake via the yellow button. On a gas coach, it means whatever mechanism that is utilized to set the parking brakes, also closes a switch that, will send the ground to the HWH system.

So, while you're waiting, you may find whatever switch (diesel coach or gas) is supplying the ground and see if it's doing it's job.
Scott

[fatboybates]

We have a 2007 Itasca Suncuiser 38t with a Workhorse chassis. We are fulltimers. Yes the parking brake is on. When putting a test light on the 12v power wire we have power going to the motor. Tommorrow we will check the ground wires for the motor and the selenoids.

[fatboybates]

Checked the ground to both selenoids and both are good and both got warm to touch.

[azpete]

check the 12 volt stud on the back of the motor while someone is pushing the button to extend the jacks. if there is power there, yoy have to replace the motor. its available at hwh, stuarts in indiana. or amazon, ebay.
if you buy from hwh, or stuarts, you get a waranty. on ebay or amazon, you have to ask.

[FleetMan]

Originally Posted by azpete

check the 12 volt stud on the back of the motor while someone is pushing the button to extend the jacks. if there is power there, yoy have to replace the motor. its available at hwh, stuarts in indiana. or amazon, ebay.
if you buy from hwh, or stuarts, you get a waranty. on ebay or amazon, you have to ask.

azpete, Thanks for adding that one critical step I forgot to include. DW was holding one of the "Jack down" buttons while I ran through the grounding troubleshooting on our HWH 625 system. My motor activated when I grounded the one small terminal on the bad solenoid.

[dpinvidic]

Just so I can understand, I think you mean "Relay".
The solenoids are the electrically operated valves.

The relays are actually switches.
So it sounds like you really discovered a faulty relay.

I took a look at the wiring diagram. You should have two metal can relays.
One is the master, and the other is the motor relay.
Pretty sure they are the same part number.

I think you proved your control board is good.

Dan

[fatboybates]

Nope, I know the difference. Selenoids are buy the pump motor. Relays are on the circuit board. But what I need to know is that the top row of relays can be removed from the circuit board, they are black. But the master relay and the pump relay are smaller and white and I am unfamiliar with those. Can they be removed from the circuit board. I've been waiting for a call back from HWH for three days now. I've call for mobile repair but can't get anybody here till monday. Banging my head against the wall. Checked all the grounds. Cleaned all the connections, checked and replace fuses. I still think its electical. Light #39 is still blinking red. And light #7 and #8 are still out after replacing the fuse and the relay. So I'm have no ground signal to the left front coil and no juice to the left front output pin. And light #39 says "master warning light".

[dpinvidic]

Originally Posted by fatboybates

Nope, I know the difference. Selenoids are buy the pump motor. Relays are on the circuit board. But what I need to know is that the top row of relays can be removed from the circuit board, they are black. But the master relay and the pump relay are smaller and white and I am unfamiliar with those. Can they be removed from the circuit board. I've been waiting for a call back from HWH for three days now. I've call for mobile repair but can't get anybody here till monday. Banging my head against the wall. Checked all the grounds. Cleaned all the connections, checked and replace fuses. I still think its electical. Light #39 is still blinking red. And light #7 and #8 are still out after replacing the fuse and the relay. So I'm have no ground signal to the left front coil and no juice to the left front output pin. And light #39 says "master warning light".

This answer is based on general electronics knowledge, and looking at the installation diagrams on the web for your system.

"Normally" high current is not routed through a circuit board because the copper traces can't handle large currents.

The relays on the circuit board "probably" control larger relays for the pump motor. If you trace the large cables from the pump motor, they "should" go to metal can type relays (2 big studs and two little studs) and not directly to the circuit board.
Might look like this

Circuit board relays can be soldered in, or placed in a socket.


You should be able to tell if there is a socket under the relay.
Did you ground one of the circuit board relays to make the pump run?

HWH has a lot of info on their site.

Regards,

Dan

[fatboybates]

Thanks for the tip about HWH website. I now have a PDF file on troubleshooting with a diagram showing me which LED lights correspond to which wires. Wish me luck.

[DAN L]

Fatboybates,
My Hwh pump motor was grounded by a large worm drive hose type clamp around a PAINTED motor. I added a #10 wire to a ground stud for a much better ground.
Try running the engine while operating the system. The motor likes at least 12.5 volts.