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Old 04-09-2008, 03:38 AM   #1
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I have a 2002 Atwood hot water heater (HWH) in my Bounder that quit working (G6A-8E Electronic Start) and after searching/reading here on iRV2 I came up with a plan of troubleshooting....the first thing was to remove the thermal fuse link and reinstall the connection directly to the thermostat....and that fixed it!!....it started working....I restarted the HWH several times to be sure it wasn't a fluke, then reinstalled the fuse link and it quit working....so now my question is this: Was my thermostat defective and is that why the fuse link blew?

While I didn't have a lot of time to mess with it last night, should I start the HWH and then watch it closely to insure that it shuts off at some point (I presume that is what the thermostat does) and when it does, what should the water temp be at the faucets?...or a better question might be, what is the maximum SAFE temperature that a water heater should go to insure that the water heater doesn't blow up!?!?!....I know what a maximum safe temp is to insure that you're not scolded at the faucet (120º, right?), but since there are no small children using this MH, then I am sure my wife and I can take care of ourselves when it comes to adjusting the water temp.....I am more concerned with the maximum safe temp of the water heater itself....Thanks in advance for any and all response!!

Kelly
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Old 04-09-2008, 03:38 AM   #2
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I have a 2002 Atwood hot water heater (HWH) in my Bounder that quit working (G6A-8E Electronic Start) and after searching/reading here on iRV2 I came up with a plan of troubleshooting....the first thing was to remove the thermal fuse link and reinstall the connection directly to the thermostat....and that fixed it!!....it started working....I restarted the HWH several times to be sure it wasn't a fluke, then reinstalled the fuse link and it quit working....so now my question is this: Was my thermostat defective and is that why the fuse link blew?

While I didn't have a lot of time to mess with it last night, should I start the HWH and then watch it closely to insure that it shuts off at some point (I presume that is what the thermostat does) and when it does, what should the water temp be at the faucets?...or a better question might be, what is the maximum SAFE temperature that a water heater should go to insure that the water heater doesn't blow up!?!?!....I know what a maximum safe temp is to insure that you're not scolded at the faucet (120º, right?), but since there are no small children using this MH, then I am sure my wife and I can take care of ourselves when it comes to adjusting the water temp.....I am more concerned with the maximum safe temp of the water heater itself....Thanks in advance for any and all response!!

Kelly
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Old 04-09-2008, 04:41 AM   #3
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The thermal fuses I replace after a time, from all the movement they will be damaged over time, and it is a simple fix. I would doubt your thermostat had anything to do with the fuse to blow.

As far as temp goes on yor HWH, the Attwoods and Surburbans have a high level thermostat which will turn off the W/H if it starts to exceed the set temp. It also has the water heater releive valve. Attwood does offer an adjustable thermostat.

Oh by the way, welcome to IRV2!
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:23 AM   #4
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Hey, thanks Lenny...so if vibration can be a possible cause, then that may explain it....first the unit is 6 years old AND last weekend I used the RV on a turkey hunting trip and traveled down 4 miles of somewhat rough gravel roads...it worked before I left, then when we got there it didn't work...luckily it was just an overnight trip so when I got home that is when I started fiddling with it....and after doing a search on here and coming up with the "check the thermal fuse link" idea, I simply unplugged it and the water heater worked just fine...so maybe and hopefully it was the vibration of the rough road that did it....I think that is an item I will need to have several of, just in case it happens while on the road...

And so I take it that you don't know the actual maximum temperatures of the HWH, but rely on the thermostat to shut the unit down, right?....tonight I will go home and light the HWH and monitor it until it shut off, then take a reading of the water temps out of the faucet and get back with you all with the results...I was thinking anything UNDER boiling temp would be OK....and if it gets hotter than that without shutting off, THAT would be considered a PROBLEM, eh?!?!....LOL

Thanks for the quick response Lenny and if anyone else has something to add, PLEASE DO!!!

Kelly
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:24 AM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Bounder94:
....the first thing was to remove the thermal fuse link and reinstall the connection directly to the thermostat.... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Kelly,
My question is...... Have you replaced the fusible link? That is a safety device to open the ignition circuit should the burner flame be outside the burner tube.

I'll leave it to you to imagine what might happen next.
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:05 AM   #6
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I believe the Atwood water heater thermostat is preset for 140 degrees.

John
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:46 AM   #7
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Frank,
Yes, I WILL NOT run the HWH without a properly working fuse link...I am picking a couple up on the way home this afternoon...I totally understand why it is there and it'll be there while I am using the HWH under normal conditions

and

John,
Thank you for the information....that is exactly what I needed to know.....so that too will be tested out this afternoon....

Thanks all of you for your rapid responses, you (the members and this website) are a great resource and help to fellow RV'ers

Kelly
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:54 AM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Bounder94:
Frank,
Yes, I WILL NOT run the HWH without a properly working fuse link...I am picking a couple up on the way home this afternoon...I totally understand why it is there and it'll be there while I am using the HWH under normal conditions

and

John,
Thank you for the information....that is exactly what I needed to know.....so that too will be tested out this afternoon....

Thanks all of you for your rapid responses, you (the members and this website) are a great resource and help to fellow RV'ers

Kelly </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Kelly,

The two limit switches are surface mounted to the tanks and are held in place by a sheet metal bayonet mount that can loosen and prevent the stats from seating properly. They can be loosened by the simple act of replacing the link. Verify after you install the new link that the stats are not loose and bend down the tabs to tighten them up. Watch out that you don't get fooled by the adhesive insulated cover that may make it appear that the stats are tightly in place. The two way tape that holds this down is not sufficient to hold them tightly for a long time. Even if you don't have a fire the steam that escapes the blowout can do great damage to your sidewalls and someone can get a bad scalding if they are nearby or using water in the coach.

I had a new water heater installed in my previous coach and they did not verify the stats which were loose. I was washing down the shower surround when they acted up and the water was so hot and the blast of steam so sudden and intense that it caused the surround to detach from the wall.
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:23 PM   #9
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Bounder 94 . . .my Bounder 95 had some t-stat issues, but the nice folks at Atwood sold me new t-stats and I carefully re-mounted them and zip!!everything worked! The fusible link can crap out from a number of reasons, including vibration. It may also have jiggled itself too close to the tank or burner, and it gave up its life to protect you. How noble!!
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Old 04-10-2008, 01:51 AM   #10
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Kelly, the fuse link, as Frank F. has stated, is to open the circuit in the event of a fire rolling out backwards of the burner box. If your thermal fuse goes bad, I would recommend you thoroughly clean the burner ventuiri, box and venting to remove any obstacles before replacing the fuse.
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Old 04-10-2008, 05:03 AM   #11
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Joe, it was noble!!...and I hope it continues to be so noble....I would rather it go out and change out a fuse link than to burn up the motorhome...life's little inconviences are nice...hopefully the T-stats are fine, as the unit worked fine when I by-passed the fuse link while troubleshooting....and troubleshooting ONLY....LOL

Mike, I will thoroughly inspect and clean the unit, just to be sure, thank you for the suggestion.

Thanks again for everyones input, this place is soooo cooool.....safe travels for all !!!!!!

Kelly
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Old 04-10-2008, 05:15 AM   #12
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PS...I see I acquired/earned a little "campfire" below my name!!...Ten post and BAM.....FIRE!...how long before the next one lights??.....

Kelly
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Old 04-10-2008, 05:11 PM   #13
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75 for the next one, then 250, then 500, and I beleive the next is 1000!
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Old 04-27-2008, 11:41 AM   #14
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Ok...here is the update....new fuse link installed, new 2-prong starter probe installed...the water heater STILL not working properly.

It will start the first time tried, the burner will burn for approximately 2-3 minutes, then the solenoid clicks the gas off....the automatic lighter tries to start the water heater again and it will not light...it will cycle thru the three attempts, then it's done until I switch the water heater switch off and wait a while....then it will again start on the first try, run a few minutes than the solenoid clicks the gas off again...

What controls the solenoid?...it has a wire coming from the ECO....but the ECO's other wire goes to the control box...

What would you all suggest as my next item to replace...here shortly I will have everything replaced..LOLOL....if that is what it takes, I'll do it....I WANT HOT WATER!!!...

So, should I replace the ECO/T-stat next, or maybe the gas solenoid?...or control board?...which one first, next, last...or do everything BUT the control board....(you know, save the BIG $$ item for last)....

I have removed/replace/cleaned all the connections on the hot water heater itself, so I feel the connections are not to blame...

HELP.....HELP....HELP.....

Thanks guys/gals....for any suggestions
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