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Old 09-12-2010, 01:29 PM   #1
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HWH Leveling System Problems & No Air In Air Shocks

I have the HWH Touch Panel-Controlled 310 Series Leveling System on my 2000 Winebago Journey 34B. Yesterday I could not get the Touch Panel to turn on to retract my jacks. I manually opened the "T" valves on the 4 solenoid resivours and the jacks retracted.
Now I have NO AIR in my air bag shocks and can not drive my motor home. There is still no power to the Touch Panel. I have checked all fuses and all are OK. I am following proper procedures to operate the system.
Here are my symptoms now:
With igniton switch on, transmission in Neutral and Parking Brake Set,
When pressing the "ON" button on the Touch Panel, the ON led lights up as well as the "Not In Park/Brake" light. These two light only stay on while pressing the ON switch. They go off when I release the ON switch.
I am stranded in North Carolina and urgently need to get underway and back home to Texas due to medical reasons.
Can anyone help me?
Please email me or call me:
Cell Phone: 817-300-1726
email: billmiller1@sbcglobal.net

T H A N K S
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:12 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K5EAG View Post
I have the HWH Touch Panel-Controlled 310 Series Leveling System on my 2000 Winebago Journey 34B. Yesterday I could not get the Touch Panel to turn on to retract my jacks. I manually opened the "T" valves on the 4 solenoid resivours and the jacks retracted.
Now I have NO AIR in my air bag shocks and can not drive my motor home. There is still no power to the Touch Panel. I have checked all fuses and all are OK. I am following proper procedures to operate the system.
Here are my symptoms now:
With igniton switch on, transmission in Neutral and Parking Brake Set,
When pressing the "ON" button on the Touch Panel, the ON led lights up as well as the "Not In Park/Brake" light. These two light only stay on while pressing the ON switch. They go off when I release the ON switch.
I am stranded in North Carolina and urgently need to get underway and back home to Texas due to medical reasons.
Can anyone help me?
Please email me or call me:
Cell Phone: 817-300-1726
email: billmiller1@sbcglobal.net

T H A N K S
Bill,
Did you close the 4 T-valves after the jacks retracted? This may be preventing your system from airing up.
After verifying everything is buttoned back up... CAREFULLY listen for any unusual hissing sounds under your coach as it idles... you may hear the source.
I'll keep checking back...
Good luck!
Jim
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:17 PM   #3
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Thanks for the quick reply and response. Yes, I have double checked the "T" valves and do not hear any unusual noises underneath.
Main problem seems to be NO power to the Touch Panel. I feel if I could get power to it, things might start working OK.
I have been reading the HWH Service Manual for the 310 Series system and they mention something about a ground wire "Blue" #9300 wire coming from the park brake. I am hesitant to run a jumper wire from ground to the Control Panel to see if this may be the problem.
Waiting until tomorrow (Monday) to call HWH and see if I can get an answer. From all the posts I have read, they are short on personnel and are very slow to answer or respond.
I can not find a shop near me to drive to which makes my problem more severe.
Thanks.....
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:19 PM   #4
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Bill I know nothing about the HWH system, but don't know if you have the manual.

http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml13514.pdf

Good luck,
Ron
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:23 PM   #5
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Thanks Ron. I do have the Service Manual and have been using it for my trouble shooting all day.
Thanks for your help.....
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:48 PM   #6
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Bill seeing the light says you have not set the parking brake, maybe the parking brake switch slipped or is bad.

Ron
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:55 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by K5EAG View Post
Thanks for the quick reply and response. Yes, I have double checked the "T" valves and do not hear any unusual noises underneath.
Main problem seems to be NO power to the Touch Panel. I feel if I could get power to it, things might start working OK.
I have been reading the HWH Service Manual for the 310 Series system and they mention something about a ground wire "Blue" #9300 wire coming from the park brake. I am hesitant to run a jumper wire from ground to the Control Panel to see if this may be the problem.
Waiting until tomorrow (Monday) to call HWH and see if I can get an answer. From all the posts I have read, they are short on personnel and are very slow to answer or respond.
I can not find a shop near me to drive to which makes my problem more severe.
Thanks.....
Bill,
OK... you have verified the T-valves and you feel (probably rightly so) that the problem is "no power to the control panel"...

Not to beat you over the head, but when you said in your first post that you had "checked" the fuses and they are good ...Not knowing you or your level of expertise... Do they just "look" good, or did you actually check them for continuity. Do you have 12 volts before AND after the fuse when it is in the fuse holder? ...If so, following that particular wire (color-coded) to the control panel verifying 12 volts is your next logical step.

As to your hesitancy to jump a ground wire to the control panel. You could verify continuity to ground with a multitester. If you do not get verification that the control panel is grounded (and if that is a necessary part of its operation)... it is a clue that may be the problem. At that point, you could use a jumper with an in-line fuse (for added protection to the board). Please wait awhile for others who are more knowledgeable to challenge that logic, before you do it.

What I am trying to de here is give you a work-around to a potential faulty ground ...and one which will not damage your control panel circuit board.
Let's keep checking back...
Jim
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Old 09-12-2010, 03:22 PM   #8
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Bill,
OK... you have verified the T-valves and you feel (probably rightly so) that the problem is "no power to the control panel"...

Not to beat you over the head, but when you said in your first post that you had "checked" the fuses and they are good ...Not knowing you or your level of expertise... Do they just "look" good, or did you actually check them for continuity. Do you have 12 volts before AND after the fuse when it is in the fuse holder? ...If so, following that particular wire (color-coded) to the control panel verifying 12 volts is your next logical step.

As to your hesitancy to jump a ground wire to the control panel. You could verify continuity to ground with a multitester. If you do not get verification that the control panel is grounded (and if that is a necessary part of its operation)... it is a clue that may be the problem. At that point, you could use a jumper with an in-line fuse (for added protection to the board). Please wait awhile for others who are more knowledgeable to challenge that logic, before you do it.

What I am trying to de here is give you a work-around to a potential faulty ground ...and one which will not damage your control panel circuit board.
Let's keep checking back...
Jim
Thank again Jim.
Yes, I checked the fuses with my ohm meter and they are good. I am thinking of running a jumper from ground to the pin on the control board which gets its ground from the park brake switch. In looking at the schematic, it shows a ground coming from the switch with a diode in-line for protection, so with that being shown on the diagram, I may go ahead and bite the bullet and try it, however, I am going to wait till tomorrow and see if perhaps anyone else posts something else on here. Plus, I am going to try and see if HWH can tell me anything confirming this procedure tomorrow, that is, if I can get someone to talk with me there.
Thank GOD for these User Groups like this. They are a very good source of information and way to share ideas, suggestions and resolutions. I am also a member of the Yahoo Winebago User Group and they too have a lot of good people monitoring.
I will keep this post updated as I make progress.
Thanks again for all who respond to my plea for help.
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Old 09-12-2010, 03:32 PM   #9
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Sounds like a good plan, Bill...
I hope you are able to get through to HWH or that someone who can verify the safety of jumping the control panel weighs in on it.
Meanwhile, you know there are a lot of friends on all of the boards pulling for you...
RVers are good people.
Best wishes,
Jim
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:12 PM   #10
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Sounds like a good plan, Bill...
I hope you are able to get through to HWH or that someone who can verify the safety of jumping the control panel weighs in on it.
Meanwhile, you know there are a lot of friends on all of the boards pulling for you...
RVers are good people.
Best wishes,
Jim
Well, I managed to get to the 6 pin connector on the Control Panel and check continuity on that pin which goes to the brake switch. It checks good, so that is probably not my problem.
So off to more head scratching and searching for something else.
This thing has worked flawlessy for me now for over 5 years and I have put my jacks down many, many times. I feel like it is a simple problem, just hard to diagnose and find. I am sore now from crawling in between the driver seat , steering wheel and reaching up under the dashboard to get to the Control Panel. The cables going to it are short and I had to tear out the foam insulation around the access hole in the floor and was able to pull up a couple inches more of cable so I could at least see the 3 connectors and able to check the 7 fuses.
I still am thinking I have an electrical problem someplace.
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:28 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by K5EAG View Post
Well, I managed to get to the 6 pin connector on the Control Panel and check continuity on that pin which goes to the brake switch. It checks good, so that is probably not my problem.
So off to more head scratching and searching for something else.
This thing has worked flawlessy for me now for over 5 years and I have put my jacks down many, many times. I feel like it is a simple problem, just hard to diagnose and find. I am sore now from crawling in between the driver seat , steering wheel and reaching up under the dashboard to get to the Control Panel. The cables going to it are short and I had to tear out the foam insulation around the access hole in the floor and was able to pull up a couple inches more of cable so I could at least see the 3 connectors and able to check the 7 fuses.
I still am thinking I have an electrical problem someplace.

Bill you said the brake switch checks good. Is that continuity good from the sw to the pin on the control panel? According to the schematic you should measure a ground at that point. One way to check the switch is to see if the emerg. brake light is on at the dash.
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Old 09-12-2010, 05:21 PM   #12
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You said you checked the fuses is one of them in a holder with cover directly at pump location?
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Old 09-12-2010, 05:27 PM   #13
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I checked continuity from ground to the pin on P7. I can not read the actual pin number, but it is the wire with the diode in series with the wire coming from the switch. I measured at the pin on the connector after I removed it from the Control Panel. I get continuity to ground.

Regarding the fuses at the Hydraluc Pump,,,,,,all 3 of the fuses are in a weather proof housing with a rubber boot on top of the conector. All fuses are good.

My Hydralic pump works as it will allow me to extend and retract my slide.
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Old 09-12-2010, 05:31 PM   #14
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Regarding the Park/Emergency Brake Light......yes it is lit on my instrument panel on the dashboard when I turn on my ignition key and when I start up my engine, it remains on even after air pressure is up to 110 pounds and I release the switch. The switch releases, but now the "Park" light on the instrument panel stays on. This was not happening until now.
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