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Old 06-24-2008, 04:41 PM   #1
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Here are a few lessons learned from a recent living room slide failure.

1. Never let this happen on the weekend, or 200 miles from civilization. There is no one available to help. (Why are RV service shops closed on the weekend?)

2. Make sure the hydraulics manual supplied with the coach actually matches the unit on your coach. It is very frustrating when trying to get phone help, if these two don't match. It can be destructive, too, when following the manual's instructions.

3. Make sure when you call HWH for help that you inform them that you are stuck and cannot move with the slide extended. They are supposed to put you higher in the queque.

4. Carry an extra solenoid, and a Stubby nut driver with a 1/4 inch socket to relieve solenoid pressure. Don't rely on the nut drive built into filler cap. They are plastic and tend to strip.

5. It is best to have TWO rachet wrenches and TWO appropriate sockets to use when manually closing the slide. It is a slow process, and took two of us 30 minutes to close the slide.

6. Check the fluid level AFTER all slides are closed. Don't fill when the slides/jacks are open/extended.

7. When you take the coach in for repair, ask the mechanic to first call HWH for diagnostic help. At $120 p/h, you don't want these guys guessing. HWH is very busy and a little slow to respond, but worth the wait. In my case a simple diagnostic procedure determined the "shuttle valve" had failed...a $60 part.

8. If you have a BR slide without manual retraction screws, be prepared to ask for help to push it in. It took 3 large men with a lot of effort to close my bedroom slide. Don't believe what the manual says.

9. Finally, after the fact, HWH told me that it possible to remove the return tube, cap off the two fittings, and the slides will work. I need to ask more about this.

RV Steve
2006 Winnebago Adventurer 34V
Workhorse Chassis - Vortec 8.1
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Old 06-24-2008, 04:41 PM   #2
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Here are a few lessons learned from a recent living room slide failure.

1. Never let this happen on the weekend, or 200 miles from civilization. There is no one available to help. (Why are RV service shops closed on the weekend?)

2. Make sure the hydraulics manual supplied with the coach actually matches the unit on your coach. It is very frustrating when trying to get phone help, if these two don't match. It can be destructive, too, when following the manual's instructions.

3. Make sure when you call HWH for help that you inform them that you are stuck and cannot move with the slide extended. They are supposed to put you higher in the queque.

4. Carry an extra solenoid, and a Stubby nut driver with a 1/4 inch socket to relieve solenoid pressure. Don't rely on the nut drive built into filler cap. They are plastic and tend to strip.

5. It is best to have TWO rachet wrenches and TWO appropriate sockets to use when manually closing the slide. It is a slow process, and took two of us 30 minutes to close the slide.

6. Check the fluid level AFTER all slides are closed. Don't fill when the slides/jacks are open/extended.

7. When you take the coach in for repair, ask the mechanic to first call HWH for diagnostic help. At $120 p/h, you don't want these guys guessing. HWH is very busy and a little slow to respond, but worth the wait. In my case a simple diagnostic procedure determined the "shuttle valve" had failed...a $60 part.

8. If you have a BR slide without manual retraction screws, be prepared to ask for help to push it in. It took 3 large men with a lot of effort to close my bedroom slide. Don't believe what the manual says.

9. Finally, after the fact, HWH told me that it possible to remove the return tube, cap off the two fittings, and the slides will work. I need to ask more about this.

RV Steve
2006 Winnebago Adventurer 34V
Workhorse Chassis - Vortec 8.1
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Old 06-24-2008, 06:19 PM   #3
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Hey Steve, you forgot to tell us #10.
Purchase a unit with electric slide drives.
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Old 06-24-2008, 08:42 PM   #4
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I couldn't decide, I bought one with two of each. The only one that I have had trouble with is the DS LR (hydraulic). One two different occasions one of the pins that pull the slide out and in broke causing the slide to bind. I was able to push it in while DW worked the control inside. It also needed to have its height adjusted. It was down on one end. That done, it's been the quietest that it has ever been and no more problems. I would hate to think about having to crank it in by hand. Now, about the three electric jacks I've had replaced . . .
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:49 PM   #5
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RVSTEVE: RE REAR BEDROOM SLIDE: i installed a fitting from the aft front slide holddown on the metal lower slide face between the bed and the nitetstand drawers. i used a 3ft 2x4 outside the emergency exit window, a come along, and a couple of straps to retract the slide. the slide came in easily when i released the 2 solenoid bleed valves. i also installed a fitting on the floor by the heat register so i can secure the slide in the retracted position with a holddown strap when driving. the bedroom slide crept out about 9" while i was on the freeway and would not retract electrically. very hairy situation. it will never happen again on my rig. i did purchase another set of tiedown fittings and a strap for the front slide from winnebago. i use 3 lockstraps now before driving.
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:04 AM   #6
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The electric slides are not without their issues as well. The electric slides have and issue with the "limiter" stop switches failing at in opportune times, preventing the slide from moving in or out. Or the drive gear can jump a tooth on the slide causing binding and damage.

Both systems have their issues, and neither is perfect. The best advice is to learn about how your slide works BEFORE you get stuck in the boonies on a Sunday afternoon

Sarge
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Old 06-25-2008, 07:20 AM   #7
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I like the idea about using a come-along to retract the BR slide. I'm going to look into that idea.

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Old 06-25-2008, 08:35 AM   #8
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When we bought the 03 Itasca it came with a belt type winch, just in case the HWH failed. Ours never failed, it just leaked. We never had to use the winch, but it tells you Winne. had very little faith in the HWH.
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:28 PM   #9
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i bent the winnie supplied crank so badly the first time i tried to use it on the front slide that i had to buy a come-long. i used the winnie bracket that fits on the top stair-floor interface with the come-along.
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:04 PM   #10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Hey Steve, you forgot to tell us #10.
Purchase a unit with electric slide drives. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Then you could be like my neighbor in Texas a year or so ago who had to call a service man to the RV park to replace electric motors on at least two of the four slides on his fiver! Too bad nothing is perfect.
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Old 06-26-2008, 01:53 AM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DAN L:
i bent the winnie supplied crank so badly the first time i tried to use it on the front slide that i had to buy a come-long. i used the winnie bracket that fits on the top stair-floor interface with the come-along. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

If it required that much force then something was very wrong that first time. The Winnie supplied unit is basically a strap style boat winch. Be carefull not to damage your top landing or pop the strap mount with the forces you can apply with a come-along. Mine is an 8,000 lb capacity and could rip things up quite badly.
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