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Old 07-05-2010, 09:15 PM   #43
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Doc, mount both beside each other on two angle irons small type and place at the top of your bottom outside vent opening aimed upward. Go to page #22-23 0n this pdf and you will see your upper vent configuration for upper vent with needed baffles to help push air out of upper vent.
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Old 07-06-2010, 07:08 AM   #44
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"007" Thanks again for your spot-on advice. You da' man!
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:34 AM   #45
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I improved the function of our Norcold 1201 LRIM that has the vent through the roof by adding four 3/4 inch aluminum tubular spacers and longer screws in the four locations that attach the vent cover to the roof housing. This lifts the vent cover to allow for better air flow. A dealer service tech suggested this to me years ago and it helps. I found the tubes and screws at Home Depot.

Happy travels, Bob
In general, and in most cases of poor rooftop venting, a good idea - BUT, be careful if you occasionally drive in wet weather - if that vent cover is raised TOO high, it can allow water intrusion down into the refrigerator cavity in amounts large enough to cause damage - same thing CAN happen in wet and windy weather while parked...

Just a FYI!
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:48 AM   #46
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Gary you should mount fans down in lower vent, people have placed them up near upper roof vent and to much water and spray has ruin them in short order.
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Old 07-06-2010, 11:21 AM   #47
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Gary,
Early on I shared your concerns about water getting in the vent to possibly damage something. I did this all about five years ago by moving from 1/4 inch spacers to 1/2 inch spacers to the now 3/4 inch spacers. No problem with any of the spacers. We have driven in rain, snow and spent extented time on the Oregon coast without any problem. This fix may not work for everyone, I suspect it may have something to do with how the air moves over each MH going down the road. It has helped with the airflow and cooling with our frig.
Happy travels, Bob
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Old 07-06-2010, 09:44 PM   #48
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ok on my four door I think its the 1200 series I have two fans from factory but they are mounted on the upper part of the absorber coils you can see the picture on page 23 where do you guys think is the best spot to had more fans? Maybe on the lower part of the absorber coils blowing up twords the top, how did you guys do for those that have done this mod, and did it work does It perform better? Thanks Joe.
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:19 PM   #49
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You have it correct mount on two small angle irons or like Oemy's did in his pictures, read this full thread, and aim up to blow heat out top vent leaving that baffle in top vent. AS the pfd shows.
The more heated air you can get out of there the better the fridge will like it.
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Old 07-06-2010, 11:07 PM   #50
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Gary you should mount fans down in lower vent, people have placed them up near upper roof vent and to much water and spray has ruin them in short order.
After some testing with a pair of old, 3.5 inch fans down in the lower area just below the accumulator tank, I found they do surprisingly well for small and older units. Plan now is to fab up a sheet aluminum mount that will be installed so that it secures to some unused mounting holes in the upper part of the lower vent/access door - the fans will be laying flat, and the aluminum sheet will pretty well form a horizontal bulkhead, isolating most of the lower hardware - burner, gas regulator/control, etc., from the various actual refrigerant coils on up above the fans.

This should generally isolate the 2 areas - not perfectly by any means - and provide a more directed and controlled forced air ventilation, rather that the purely "heat rises" approach that seemingly has proved in many cases to be inadequate. Remaining question is, how many of the 4 inch muffin fans to use - I sorta lean towards 3, if actual power draw for all 3 is in the general 1 amp area. I could easily provide off/on switches to control individual fans, as changing conditions dictate.

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Gary,
Early on I shared your concerns about water getting in the vent to possibly damage something. I did this all about five years ago by moving from 1/4 inch spacers to 1/2 inch spacers to the now 3/4 inch spacers. No problem with any of the spacers. We have driven in rain, snow and spent extented time on the Oregon coast without any problem. This fix may not work for everyone, I suspect it may have something to do with how the air moves over each MH going down the road. It has helped with the airflow and cooling with our frig.
Happy travels, Bob

Bob, since I had already unfastened the roof vent for possible fan mounting in that area, I decided to try the spacer approach - 1/2 inch was all I dared - and I added those, then re-secured that top vent - surprisingly, I was then able to detect air flow from the vent - and MORE amazingly, the refrigerator, running on AC power, actually started cycling on and off as efficiency of cooling was clearly improved by the fan/raised vent approach!

Prior to this, in daytime use, the heater element ran constantly. SO, I'm well convinced that the added fans, heater control thermostat, and improved airflow thru the raised roof vent, will make RV ice cream a regular event!

With all this - and others chiming in here and in other related threads with comments and questions - you have to wonder how many OTHER RVers have poorly functioning refrigerators - and no clue that they WILL operate better, and with pretty minimal outlay of labor or $$$...
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Old 07-08-2010, 06:30 PM   #51
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Something else interesting has surfaced from all this:

A short while back, I was one of the group here who ordered one of those neat refrigerator fans that runs off the RV's 12 volt source. I was pretty unimpressed with it's performance the couple of times we were out with the MH - it seemed like the refrigerator interior was running at a HIGHER temperature than before the added interior fan.

Apparently, that was due to the poor rear venting - and the resulting poor efficiency of the refrigerator in general.

Now that I've been testing the actual effects of the smaller temporary fans - and the raised rooftop vent cover, all interior temps have GREATLY improved - and I went ahead an fired up the added interior fan to see the effect. As it turns out, the interior of the refrigerator is nice and even everywhere inside the box, and should provide all the benefits not seen prior to all this testing - sure will be great to get all the actual new stuff installed, and then see the finished project!
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Old 07-08-2010, 06:51 PM   #52
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This topic got me thinking some more, so I went out, moved the fans again (just below the top side vent opening) and as there was a gap at the top of the fridge, I sealed that with aluminum duct tape. The temps this week have been around 100-103 most of the week. I actually had to turn the controls down from level 5 to level 3 as the fridge temp dropped to 30 and things were freezing. The freezer was -3. At level 3 it's now running at 34-36. What a difference!

I need to find a new snap-disc that kicks on around 85-90. As of now, the fans are just wired always on. I don't foresee a cold front moving in anytime soon though.

Ventilation is apparently everything.
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Old 07-08-2010, 07:11 PM   #53
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Well thats great to hear hard ice cream coming up.
LindyT was the tape to seal up a gap in your upper vent baffle?
Some people still do not have a baffle in that upper vent, I have found.
Gary you mentioned some people do not know about the problem with both MFG's refrigerators, irv2 is going on 50,000 members we can get the word out and save allot of frustration for these people thanks for bringing that up everyone on irv2 help many newbies and its going to even get better.
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Old 07-08-2010, 07:40 PM   #54
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The fans will do more good mounted up in the top to add in helping the convection currents. We have had them mounted up top for several years now and no problems with them getting wet.

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Old 07-08-2010, 09:03 PM   #55
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This topic got me thinking some more, so I went out, moved the fans again (just below the top side vent opening) and as there was a gap at the top of the fridge, I sealed that with aluminum duct tape. The temps this week have been around 100-103 most of the week. I actually had to turn the controls down from level 5 to level 3 as the fridge temp dropped to 30 and things were freezing. The freezer was -3. At level 3 it's now running at 34-36. What a difference!

I need to find a new snap-disc that kicks on around 85-90. As of now, the fans are just wired always on. I don't foresee a cold front moving in anytime soon though.

Ventilation is apparently everything.
what kind of refrigerator do you have and does It have factory fans or didn't have any before you had the fans, I have a norcold 1200 with two fans from factory, yesterday I put a pretty big fan on the buttom of the lower service cover just blowing up twards the top and It didn't do any diference In the temperature inside the box, the weather as been hot It was about 100 outside and about 110 inside the rv and I had the fridge set at #4 and It was at 42inside the box, do you guys think Its a normal temperature or Its a bit on the high side? joe.
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Old 07-08-2010, 09:15 PM   #56
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You have battle, two heat zones inside and outside your coach don't think the refridge has a chance its surrounded.
If the sun is on fridge wall try turning coach around and is your awning down.
Can you hear your two fans operating that were installed on your fridge. Try using a mirror and see if they are spinning. On a normal warm day they would be cycling off and on.
A fan added in lower vent will take awhile before seeing a difference in temp.
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