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Old 07-08-2010, 09:19 PM   #57
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I have a 1200 and I have never had the problems we have encounted here.
I had a defective electric element and it still kept the fridge cold at 5.
Wish I was there to help you out maybe easier.
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Old 07-08-2010, 09:57 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by "007" View Post
I have a 1200 and I have never had the problems we have uncounted here.
I had a defective electric element and it still kept the fridge cold at 5.

We've never had any problems with the Dometic in our '88 KIT 5er either - just the way the ball bounces!

The Dometic in the KIT has a far better inspection door/vent than the Winnie MH, and also a more generous top vent - and I have little doubt those are the main ingredients for proper function.

BUT, put the Norcold in the KIT - and the Dometic in the Winnie - and I'd bet the Dometic would then display the same issues as the Norcold - and the Norcold would function perfectly...

Not the refrigerator's fault - just the engineering in the MH design...
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:14 PM   #59
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I need to find a new snap-disc that kicks on around 85-90. As of now, the fans are just wired always on. I don't foresee a cold front moving in anytime soon though.

Ventilation is apparently everything.
I just ordered an adjustable White Rodgers fan switch 3F05-1 off Ebay for $9.00. It can be adjusted from 90* to 130* with a 20* differential. It will close at whatever temp you set it at from 90 to 130 and turn off at 20* below that.
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:16 PM   #60
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I just ordered an adjustable White Rodgers fan switch 3F05-1 off Ebay for $9.00. It can be adjusted from 90* to 130* with a 20* differential. It will close at whatever temp you set it at from 90 to 130 and turn off at 20* below that.
I just order one from ebay as well, where are you ging to mount the switch? On top or buttom and are you removing the fridge? Thanks and I'm sorry that I ask a million questions, Joe.
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:26 PM   #61
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ninos why would you want to remove the fridge?





Gary my 88 Cruise Air had a Dometic and for 8 years never had a problem, had the same venting as you have.
Maybe there is something to all this global warming.
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Old 07-10-2010, 12:45 AM   #62
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I just order one from ebay as well, where are you ging to mount the switch? On top or buttom and are you removing the fridge? Thanks and I'm sorry that I ask a million questions, Joe.
Like 007 says there is no need to remove the fridge. I am going to install the snap switch near the burner on some kind of standoff and also my hope is that even without the fridge running the ambient temp between the back of the fridge and the sidewall will trigger the fan switch on between fridge cycles if need be. I am installing my fans (2) similar to 007's picture with the two fans. My fridge is mounted in the slide so therefore has the two side vents. It has the proper baffles but according to the page 23 diagram I have a bit too much space (2 1/2 inches) between the back of the fridge and the sidewall. I'm not going to worry about that as my fridge works excellent as it is and will freeze ice cream at number 4. What I want to achieve is to reduce the fridge cycling. FWIW I installed one of those inside fans that attaches to the fins and went from number 6 to number 4 so it worked well for me.
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Old 07-10-2010, 08:32 AM   #63
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where are you guys getting the power from?
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Old 07-10-2010, 08:46 AM   #64
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To the left of your vent opening on deck fridge is setting on is a 12v connecting block that feeds the 12v for fridge. You could tap off there or run a wire down through to compartment below and pick up 12v on live side of a light in bay.
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Old 07-10-2010, 10:46 AM   #65
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On mine the power wires to the fridge came up through the side wall to the left of the lower vent right below the 110 volt inverter receptacle for the ice maker. I just tapped into them so the fans can turn on whether the fridge is running or not. I'm not putting in an on/off switch as if we are using the MH then the fridge is running if we are not then all the power is turned off anyway. BTW my wires where red and white with red being positive, they run up and plug into the back of the fridge control box.
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Old 07-10-2010, 11:12 AM   #66
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It has the proper baffles but according to the page 23 diagram I have a bit too much space (2 1/2 inches) between the back of the fridge and the sidewall. I'm not going to worry about that as my fridge works excellent as it is and will freeze ice cream at number 4. What I want to achieve is to reduce the fridge cycling.
YUP - spacing in a system relying upon rather minimal rising of heated air CAN be critical - as is the corresponding baffling required to enhance that airflow.

My goal in regards to system cycling differs from yours - I'm looking to improve efficiency of the system to ALLOW cycling, rather than having it running constantly to maintain a temperature setting.

Quote:
007 sez
Gary my 88 Cruise Air had a Dometic and for 8 years never had a problem, had the same venting as you have.
Maybe there is something to all this global warming.
Again, unless the actual refrigerator model and installation is identical in ALL regards, comparing operation of one refrigerator against another can be difficult to do equitably (my Dometic is model 8683) - and I sorta suspect Cruise Air and Winnebago installs might have had some differences in regards to wall spacings, baffles, and such.

I like the looks of your fan mount to the coils - should work quite well - but pretty hard for me to duplicate due to limited access to that area from both top and bottom of unit. Do you use any sort of isolating material between the fan mounts and coils to eliminate vibration or potential wear between mount and coils?

In any event, the minor mods and added temporary fans have provided substantial improvements on my own setup, and the final, actual component installation should be far better yet. My heat sensor switch has arrived, and looks great - should be an easy install, and now just need for the fans to arrive.

On my refrigerator, there is a quite noticeable drop in refrigerant temperature from the top to the bottom of the spiraling cooling coils - and I hope to be able to make significant fine tuning of the temp sensor function simply by where I attach the sensor in that coil stack.
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Old 07-10-2010, 11:40 AM   #67
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My heat sensor switch has arrived, and looks great - should be an easy install, and now just need for the fans to arrive.
Let us know how/where you install it.
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Old 07-10-2010, 11:45 AM   #68
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Gary,The spec sheets pg 23- 24 of spacing behind refridge are put out by Norcold and are what they require for their fridge proper operation, if RV MFG does not follow, it shows the results in your long thread you started. The spec's are there from 88 to 2010.
Dometic has same.
Thanks for starting the thread always good to rehash this problem for others.
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Old 07-10-2010, 02:48 PM   #69
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ok I order the switch and I picked up two fans at a local store, I got two 4'3/4 fans, my question is should I mount both in the buttom or both on top or one on top and the other on the buttom, what do you guys bthink will work beter? thanks Joe.
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Old 07-10-2010, 03:21 PM   #70
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ninos, I'll ask again are your two factory fans working at top of coils as shown in picture? Post # 61
If they are not you may have a defective heat sensing thermistor which some people have had.
If they are working I would install like same in picture of small fan or mount on two small size angle irons at top of lower vent to draw air from outside and up through your vent chamber.
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