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Old 07-10-2010, 06:54 PM   #71
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O HAPPY DAY!

My fans arrived today, and after testing to determine real-life operation, current draw, noise/vibration level, etc., hope to have them installed tomorrow - weather permitting... It's HOT out here in eastern Oregon, but will make a great test for the mods!

I personally suspect that as 007 sez, the mount up at the top is probably most efficient, but for direct monitoring and maintenance, I plan to install mine to the upper frame of the lower vent door/panel - that way, the operation of both the fans and the temperature control are all located close together, and fine-tuning should be lots easier to accomplish.

If all goes according to current plans, will use 3 fans, and will provide means to switch individual in/out of operation as differing conditions dictate - cooler days in the shade may not need as much added cooling as hotter ones in direct sunlight. Not much of a factor on shore power - but we do a lot of wilderness camping - and watts can add up in 24/7 situations...
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Old 07-11-2010, 05:40 AM   #72
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Fridecool Vent Fan

This is the same problem we are having with our our norcold double door refrig, when it's gets real hot (90s) the unit can not keep up with it. So I'm thinking of installing this little unit in rear of the box by the cooling tubes.

Fridecool vent fan for $ 44.99 from RV Supple Warehouse.
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:09 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007";667487]ninos, I'll ask again are your two factory fans working at top of coils as shown in picture? [B][URL="http://www.irv2.com/forums/f86/i-need-better-refrigerator-venting-70687-5.html#post667166
Post # 61[/URL][/B]
If they are not you may have a defective heat sensing thermistor which some people have had.
If they are working I would install like same in picture of small fan or mount on two small size angle irons at top of lower vent to draw air from outside and up through your vent chamber.
Yes the two factory fans are working, but If I install the fans on the buttom vent like the picture It might cool the accumulator (the bige round bottle at the buttom) Is that ok? And I have another question on the top vent The baffle is about 5 or 6 in. lower then the lower part of the condenser how big a problem Is this? Should I make a new baffle?
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:52 PM   #74
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Glad to hear top fans are working. Your vent setup is in either fig 12 or 13.
It seems if the chamber behind the coils on refridge is more than 1" from the outside wall of coach than the coach mfg has to install a baffle from the tank location up to just below top of coils to cut down on space and force any air movement upward to go through as close as possible and confined through the coils themselves. The tank and coils will be hot so we want to cool them.
This is there if it was required so you should not have to do anything about that baffle. The one I was concerned with was up near the top vent in the fig 12&13 it shows a aluminum sheet of metal that goes across the vent opening directing the heated air right out the top vent. Thats so the heat does not collect over the top of refridge and just defeat the purpose of getting the heat out from in back of the refridge. If you have it you have it made no problem, I wouldn't think Newmar would forget it, but who can say.
The fans you mount should aim up by the tank into the back of refridge through the coils.
As you can see with OEMY'S one fan and switch his is on four posts aimed upward.
You could do the same with two fans or mount on angle irons at top of lower vent.
Its your choice.
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:20 PM   #75
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007 I want to thank you very much for the great explanation, And I do have the baffel in the back of the fridge fleetwood didn't forget It but Its not .25 in. like It shows in the pictures mine Is a good 5 or 6 in. from the top of the baffle to the lower part of the condenser, Is It ok to be like that or should I extend the baffle that I have there, once again thank you so much, Joe.
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Old 07-12-2010, 08:58 AM   #76
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That baffle should go across the top of vent opening sloped from top of refrigerator toward the top of your upper vent opening. I think your alright if you can not see the top of fridge box thru your vent opening.
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Old 07-12-2010, 01:15 PM   #77
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OK - I now have the new fan assembly mod installed and functioning - here's a few pics:
(click on pics to enlarge)



The complete assembly and wiring harness



Rear view of assembly showing perforated angle iron used for mount



The setup all installed - the fans are solidly connected together to form a single assembly. The center fan is wired to run continuously whenever the fridge is in operation, and the outer fans are wired to the temperature control sensor/switch, which is currently installed at the very top coil of the coil stack. The installed setup is very solid and noise free - even when I manually engage all 3 fans. Total current draw is 1 amp for all 3 fans, and only about 350ma for the single that looks to be the only one needed most of the time. At night, the blue LED's display an eerie glow visible thru the lower vent cover.

The fans are mounted at a slant, so that the cooling air is directed across the upper part of the accumulator, and then up thru the coil stack and eventually out the rooftop vent. The fans are very quiet and vibration free - and not sure if the outer fans are actually needed - yesterday was pretty hot in the mid-90's, and the coil stack could easily be touched, and not hot enough to cause the switch to engage at its 120 degree setting - will see how it does today in similar weather, yesterday the temp sensor was only midway up the coil stack, so somewhat cooler than where it is now installed.

Fridge temp is holding steady at 34 degrees near the inner cooling fins, increasing to about 47 at bottom of compartment - freezer is holding steady at -6 degrees or so. The sun is directly upon the MH sidewall where the refrigerator is installed, so this is about as bad a circumstance as I would normally expect out in the campgrounds - and so far, so good!
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Old 07-12-2010, 01:38 PM   #78
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Now thats some coool installation and must be even coooler at night. Good job Gary.
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Old 07-12-2010, 03:48 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by "007" View Post
Now thats some coool installation and must be even coooler at night. Good job Gary.
Thanks - it's sure looking good at the moment - and FAR better than before all this started!

Been running on AC power with fridge thermostat at halfway mark - to see if I can get the other 2 added cooling fans to kick in, I switched over to propane, and turned the temp down to lowest setting - we'll see what happens...
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Old 07-13-2010, 09:34 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by Gary - K7GLD View Post
Thanks - it's sure looking good at the moment - and FAR better than before all this started!

Been running on AC power with fridge thermostat at halfway mark - to see if I can get the other 2 added cooling fans to kick in, I switched over to propane, and turned the temp down to lowest setting - we'll see what happens...
So what is the outcome? do you feel a diference in temperature inside the box and can you keep icecream frozen (hard)? lert us know, thanks Joe.
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Old 07-13-2010, 11:33 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary - K7GLD View Post
Thanks - it's sure looking good at the moment - and FAR better than before all this started!

Been running on AC power with fridge thermostat at halfway mark - to see if I can get the other 2 added cooling fans to kick in, I switched over to propane, and turned the temp down to lowest setting - we'll see what happens...
Kool setup,
I lost track what temp setting was you snap switch?
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Old 07-14-2010, 08:13 AM   #82
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Here's My Fix

I ordered 2 120mm 12 v dc computer case fans and mounted with zip ties/double stick tape as shown. Not the most secure method to be sure, but I am on the road. BTW red is hot, black is common, yellow is not used (computers use it to measure fan speed).

Of course fan #2 ended up DOA (and no I didn't check it before I mounted it - where is the fun in that?).


So I'm only running 1 full-time at present. I have a thermal switch on order but it has not arrived yet.


So, did it work? Before mods, freezer maintained +10 on our normal (#3) setting. After mod, thermometer reads +4 degrees.
OK, not bad but still won't keep ice cream as hard as I like it. So . . .

FWIW - computer case fans come in many sizes & amount of air moved (cubic feet per minute). These (
Scythe S-Flex SFF21G) are rated at 35CFM. So, following the axiom that if 35 CFM is good 254 cfm will be better I ordered a replacement rated at that speed. We'll see if another fan makes any more of a difference.

And yes for all you obsessive-compulsive's out there , I do plan to clean up/secure the installation better when I get home.

Mark
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Old 07-14-2010, 11:52 PM   #83
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Doc -- glad you're having some success. You may have more if you mount the fans above the coils. It's typically better to pull the air than push it.

Just my .02.

Where did you get fans with a 254cfm rating? Talk about the Binford 2000 of fans.
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Old 07-15-2010, 07:38 AM   #84
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I mounted my $18 Radioshack 4" computer fan at the top of the rear access panel and direct wired it to the back of the fridge where 12 volts is readily available.

My fan just blows the air straight up, sucking in cooler air thru the access panel vents from the outside.

Used to be 50 degrees on the fridge side set on "9" (highest) and now 36 set on 3 or 4, depending on outside temp and sun direction.
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