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Old 05-20-2016, 04:29 PM   #15
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Hi
I am checking for shorts and bad grounds in the lighting hoping that when I find the reason for the low beam problem I will find they are connected. I will keep the battery disconnected for now just to be sure. I am starting on the curb side headlight (where I recently replaced the Daytime running light which blew around the time the trouble started.) I am guessing only but it seems to be as good as any place. Suggestions would be great if there are better places. Turns out I did find a problem. Don't know if it is the problem though. I had to remove the headlamp assembly to get access to the wiring inside. It is bolted and screwed to bits of metal and blocks of wood that are sort of mainly glassed into the front section. I have had this one out before. Here is the headlump



When I needed a lens I was told that it was made for a Lada truck made in Poland. Here is the back



It is right side up in this picture. The large hatch with the wire clip gives access to the large Day Lamp. The open hatch on the left is for wiring and you can view the low beam (bottom) and High beam (upper.) It might be possible to change those bulbs through this hatch but it is easier to pull the entire unit and remove the lens. I'll change them just in case.

Here is a closeup of the wiring I found. I wonder how this happened? It's not melted. The red wire looks like it didn't have insulation when it went in.



The wires seem solid so I will see if I can slip shrink tube over them. This could easily short but it would short to the hi-beam which would have lit up. The grounds for low and hi are on the same pin. I'll make sure the bulbs are seated properly.
I don't think this is going to fix it but it needed to be fixed. All of the relays are good. All wires are inside covered bundles so I don't know where they go. I can't find the breaker for the lights. Can anyone help with that? I would like to test the ground and power at the breaker and possibly replace it. Fuse is set firmly and good. any suggestions?
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A 15yo RV is like a Steam Locomotive. Run time/Maintenance is about 65/35. For every 65 hours in use it needs 35 hours of work.
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Old 05-20-2016, 04:51 PM   #16
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This might be important. Should the low beams remain on when the high beams are turned on? Mine do. I have never seen a vehicle that does that.
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A 15yo RV is like a Steam Locomotive. Run time/Maintenance is about 65/35. For every 65 hours in use it needs 35 hours of work.
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...f.jpg~original
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Old 05-20-2016, 05:14 PM   #17
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In all the years wiring snow plow lights and repairing any headlights, I never seen or configured them to be on together. The high/low switch is fed by the headlight switch then out to the lamps.
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Old 05-20-2016, 05:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahoona View Post
This might be important. Should the low beams remain on when the high beams are turned on? Mine do. I have never seen a vehicle that does that.
If you have the sealed beam headlights it's a normal condition. The lamp that has the low beam filament also has a high beam filament. It should have 3 terminals at the rear, common ground, high beam filament, and low beam filament. The high beam only lamp will have a single filament and 2 connectors at the rear.


Some halogen lights used the same arrangement. Check to see how many terminals there are on each plug. If you have 3 terminals you have both high and low beams in the same bulb. If you have 2 terminals you have only 1 beam.


Also as a side note the body builder decides what lights to install. Ford supplies the switch and wiring harness that goes to the lights. The body builder adds the plugs to match the style lights they use.
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Old 05-20-2016, 05:49 PM   #19
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That is what I was afraid of too. Does anybody have a 2001 f 53 that would be so kind as to check to see if their lows stay on when the highs are on to confirm that? I would appreciate it greatly. On every vehicle I have had the highs and lows are separate normally except when the momentary high beam flash is being used. This problem would be in the "Multi Function switch" on the dash unless it was crossed wires somewhere else. That headlight with the bare wires on both high and low would do it if they crossed but right now the other headlamp assembly is in the RV and it has the lows coming on with the high too. I need to pull the other one too and see if it is making contact but my bet is a bad MFS. That is expensive!. There was a recall for that on some F53's. I should check tomorrow.
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A 15yo RV is like a Steam Locomotive. Run time/Maintenance is about 65/35. For every 65 hours in use it needs 35 hours of work.
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:35 AM   #20
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For someone to properly verify whether both lights operate at the same time they'll have to have the same or similar model coach. Our 2001 Winnebago Adventurer had 4 sealed beam headlights. The outer lights were daytime running lights and both high and low beams. The inner lights were high beams only.


Here's a link to the 2001 Winnebago Adventurer exterior lamp wiring diagram:
http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2001/132725.pdf


The first page shows the headlight wiring. The left diagram is for the Workhorse chassis and the right is for the Ford chassis.
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Old 05-21-2016, 07:27 AM   #21
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My lows do not stay on when the high beams are selected (I plan on adding a relay so they will)

ALSO My DRLs stay on all the time. anytime the ending is running, the DRLs are on.
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Old 05-21-2016, 09:50 AM   #22
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My lows do not stay on when the high beams are selected (I plan on adding a relay so they will)

ALSO My DRLs stay on all the time. anytime the ending is running, the DRLs are on.
Thanks. I was hoping you were watching since your rig is identical to mine except for the trim on the dashboard. This points to the Multi function switch as the likely culprit. I am surprised at how inexpensive those are compared to others. That would be a simple fix if only I knew it was the problem. Might have to bite the bullet and get one to see. I'll pull it and set it up benched and test it I guess.
The focus of this is to find out what makes the low beams dip every 2 seconds though. That is the actual problem. Lets hope they are one and the same problem!
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A 15yo RV is like a Steam Locomotive. Run time/Maintenance is about 65/35. For every 65 hours in use it needs 35 hours of work.
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...f.jpg~original
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Old 05-21-2016, 10:06 AM   #23
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Thanks all. Waiter has the identical coach so I mow know the answer. What did we ever do before we had friends on the internet to help? I remember. It was a lot of work.
Here is the wiring repair on the headlamp. I used liquid electrical tape. Not the neatest but effective. I don't think that was the problem but it could have been a problem.



I will let the other one alone until I see if the multi function switch is the problem. There was a Ford recall on those so I need to see if it applies.

The important thing to remember is that I am trying to stop the low beams from dipping every 2 seconds and not get lost in other things. This could be part of a larger intermittent problem where the battery drains. Focus is not my forte. ADD. I sure hope that somebody else has run into this low beam problem and fixed it. There must be a million F53, F other model and Super Duty trucks on the road with this electrical system! I can't be the only one!
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A 15yo RV is like a Steam Locomotive. Run time/Maintenance is about 65/35. For every 65 hours in use it needs 35 hours of work.
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...f.jpg~original
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Old 05-22-2016, 01:20 PM   #24
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The battery drain seems to be gone now. I still do not exactly know what it is but I will keep checking to make sure it is gone. My main problem now is the headlight problem. I am hoping to contact a mod to have the thread title changed to "need help with blinking lo-beams" or to close the thread it so I can restart to increase visibility. I am getting nervous. We leave for the Keys Tuesday early unless I can't fix it.
To review here is the problem. A the low beams come on when the High beams are turned on. They should not on this model. The highs do not come on when the lows are turned on. B- The low beams dip or cut out for a tenth of a second. They do it every 2 seconds.Booth do it at the same time and with one headlight removed the other still does it. Part A may have something to do with part B. At the same time that this started, one Daytime Running light burned out. Might be a clue.
Meanwhile here is what I have done so far. I replaced the multi function switch. I pulled one headlight pod and checked the wiring. It was badly done but not shorted. I have examined the wires under the dash as best I can but don't see anything shorted. I checked relays. I am trying to find a breaker for the lowbeams to check it but cannot so far. I don't know where to go from here but I guess it means a short. I am assuming that wires inside a bundle are OK so far. I assume the main headlight switch is OK since a problem there would affect everything. Any ideas where to check are appreciated.

PS oh yes... How do I contact a mod here?
Thanks
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A 15yo RV is like a Steam Locomotive. Run time/Maintenance is about 65/35. For every 65 hours in use it needs 35 hours of work.
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...f.jpg~original
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Old 05-23-2016, 06:05 AM   #25
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Diagrams for the headlights on my 2001 F53 (Mirada)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf E1I08501.pdf (186.3 KB, 10 views)
File Type: pdf E1I08502.pdf (126.0 KB, 8 views)
File Type: pdf E1I08503.pdf (140.5 KB, 7 views)
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:37 AM   #26
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Diagrams for the headlights on my 2001 F53 (Mirada)
Thank you Waiter21! I do appreciate these. I followed much of the wiring yesterday looking for obvious shorts and didn't see any.This will allow me to follow it between the boxes and figure it out under the dash. It has wire colors too and that is what I need. Fantastic! I'll see what I can do today. We are going down to Key West early tomorrow so I can take the diagrams along if I don't find it.

I found the intermittent battery drain. The original drain that killed the battery had to do with a wire that I connected for the jack controller and the rear camera. I put it in an fuse slot that was always on. Not much but over time it drew the battery down and held it there. Same with the stereo which does draw from coach but needs a lead to the ignition switch for some reason. That was my intermittent drain after I replaced the battery. All fixed now.
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A 15yo RV is like a Steam Locomotive. Run time/Maintenance is about 65/35. For every 65 hours in use it needs 35 hours of work.
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...f.jpg~original
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:45 PM   #27
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There are two factory (Ford F53) headlight connectors in the front, my headlight fixtures plug into these. there are no electrical modifications to the original ford circuit.

My headlights really suck, not very bright. I was going to add relays so they could draw power straight from the battery rather than go through the various switches, etc. I was also going to mod so that the low beams stay on when the high beams are selected.
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Old 05-23-2016, 04:05 PM   #28
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There are two factory (Ford F53) headlight connectors in the front, my headlight fixtures plug into these. there are no electrical modifications to the original ford circuit.

My headlights really suck, not very bright. I was going to add relays so they could draw power straight from the battery rather than go through the various switches, etc. I was also going to mod so that the low beams stay on when the high beams are selected.
Just so I can be sure. When looking at the coach from the front. Is the largest light on the outside position (farthest from center) the DLR? Then the smaller unit closest to the center is low/hi with the high being the center bulb and the lower bulb being the lo? This is starting to make me wonder if I have things right!
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A 15yo RV is like a Steam Locomotive. Run time/Maintenance is about 65/35. For every 65 hours in use it needs 35 hours of work.
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...f.jpg~original
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