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Old 03-17-2007, 08:35 AM   #15
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The water line should have a wire warp tin foil warp up pipe to ice maker to protect it from cold so won't freeze. The water valve will also have a wire warp around it also.

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Old 03-17-2007, 01:51 PM   #16
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Mine doesn't have any sort of freeze protection. I just "assumed" that with the heating element in close proximity it would keep the tubes warm. Hmmm, some of that pipe-wrap heating element stuff should be easy enough to install. Thanks for that tip.

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Old 03-17-2007, 08:19 PM   #17
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Bama...Sawzall will probably get to those pipes quicker than anything else...
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Old 03-20-2007, 03:37 PM   #18
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I've had a terrible experience with my ice maker-- are you ready,?? I have a Dometic that worked very sparingly and I just kept cranking it up to a higher setting to get more water. Well one day I noticed water below the fridge. By this time the floor ( oak laminate) was "swelling"-- ugh. I ordered a new tubing kit-- I'm up in Maine now, and when it comes, I pull the fridge. When I pulled the old tubing harness off I had to cut away the black electrical tape that encloses the tubing and the "heater element". About 10" above the electric selonid fill valve, deeply enclosed in the tape, the tubing had crystalized and cracked/broke for about 8". I replaced the entire tubing package, but I removed the 3 amp fuse so it will never repeat itself. I purchased the motor home at 4 years of age and it apparently was in a cold environement for an extended period of time. The good ole boy who sold it to me lived in South Dakota and he swore to me he was in Mission, Texas every winter-- no snow, cold weather, etc. The thermostat is set to kick in at 32F and below and Warm the water valve and the fill line. I now shut off the supply and drain the fill line and valve-- and guess what-- we don't have to defrost the fridge every two weeks anymore. I just buy a bag of ice and fill the hopper, when needed. It's a heck of a lot cheaper than redoing the entire floor area-- and the matching locking, laminate is no longer available. I've patched it up with a close, similar looking material and put a rug over it.

Max H

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Old 03-20-2007, 04:21 PM   #19
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Max sorry to hear of problems as to the floor if you park it in the winter try putting some heavy cement blocks on top of the floor area that buckled. 99 MA I had, had a leak that dealer could not find for people I bought MH from in 2000. I found the leak water came in the top of furnace opening never had sealent there and water ran into bathroom into rug and back out into kitchen under laminate floor. The floor buckled across the bath entrance. Well for a couple of winter I place the blocks and the weight flaten the floor. The changes in temp and humidity most of change the floor to go flat. Give it a try may work for you also.

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