Ignition switch problem

[BobnMelba]

I have a 2005 workhorse chassis motorhome that I have a problem with the ignition switch. It started out having difficulty turning the key to the full off position and couldn’t get the key out of the ignition. I looked on you tube and it talked about a small bar not retracting all the way. I took the covers off the steering column and finally located the hole and removed the lock and filed down the bar that was sticking out but that didn’t help as the cylinder won’t turn far enough to get the key out. There is a white plastic part that the cylinder mates up to and I wonder if there is a problem with it. I called Lictsinn and they called workhorse and no parts are available. Has anyone had any experience with this stuff or can point me to a supplier? Workhorse suggested a salvage yard but you need the key to get the cylinder out and it would be unlikely that a salvaged rv would have the key in it. If you can help you can pm me if it would be easier.

[Ray,IN]

Very few MH parts are special-made, the igniton key switch is just one. For instance, my ignition switch was made for a 1970's Chevy pickup. If you can remove your igniton switch, take it to NAPA, CarQuest, or other auto parts store and ask them to locate a new switch.

[Bob_C]

If your RV has a GM column, pull the steering wheel and you'll need a special tool to compress the steering wheel lock plate to access it's wire lock ring.....just slide it up onto the tool till you put it back together.....the lock cylinder is not the ignition switch, it's further down on column.......a screw or a tab you depress is all that holds the cylinder in place.....pulls right out...most auto parts stores carry the tool....not expensive...Make sure you get that rack reindexed correctly.....

[arcaguy]

Don't necessarily discount the salvage yard route. Many time a dealer/manufacturer can sell you a key based on the VIN. You might also be surprised how many keys come into salvage lots. Call the dealer/manufacturer and see if they can cut a key from the VIN before you go down that road. Please don't ask how long my van idled when I locked the key inside and had to get a key made like this. Just another avenue to explore.

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by arcaguy

Don't necessarily discount the salvage yard route. Many time a dealer/manufacturer can sell you a key based on the VIN. You might also be surprised how many keys come into salvage lots. Call the dealer/manufacturer and see if they can cut a key from the VIN before you go down that road. Please don't ask how long my van idled when I locked the key inside and had to get a key made like this. Just another avenue to explore.

Good suggestion! Here is a salvage 2006 Fleetwood Bounder:https://rvexteriorbodypanels.visoner...M240737/s1.pl?
Some who have dealt with them say their parts are about the same cost as a new part-if it was available.

[cataska]

Could be the key have it checked by a locksmith they do wear out

[BobnMelba]

Follow up.
I decided to try a Chevy switch that didn’t have the accessory position to see if it would work. When I got back to the motorhome I thought I would try the old switch one more time. When I tried to turn it off it didn’t want to go so I wiggled it and got it to the off position. You have to turn it to the start position to depress a catch through a hole in the housing to remove it. When I started to turn it it “clicked” and then turned real easy so I returned it to the off position and the key came out like it should so I tried it about two dozen times and it worked perfectly.
Thanks for the replies.

[hoakken]

If the lock cylinder bound up one time it will do it again. Better to change it now than on the road.

[THenne1713]

(Some vehicles, I have read) use a solenoid to move the lock. and a blown fuse (maybe brakes lights/ lights?) can prevent key removal; Rented a little KIA few yrs back that developed that problem, and now suspect loose/ blown fuse that time?