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Old 07-29-2013, 09:18 AM   #15
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I gotta go with Dr4film. In reality, you are running two 120 VAC circuits. If you were using it for a 240V device, such as a compressor or welder, you could use 240V as a parameter, otherwise, you have to go with 120V.

I used 8 gauge on my 75 foot length but I put a 30 amp (double pole) breaker on it.

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Old 07-29-2013, 10:06 AM   #16
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I would measure the voltage in your house to see if it drops much below the nominal 120 volts. If drops much, you will need heavier gauge wire to maintain a decent voltage in your RV. If you live in an area with heavy power use at times (like everyone using ACs nearby), if the service cable from your house to the street is long or if you have a 100A vs 200A service, these can all lead to a lower voltage before you even get connected to your RV.

If you want to have a full 50 amps available in your RV, I'd go with #3 as some have said. Starts to get expensive in the larger sizes though. You could potentially need even larger wire if you start out with low voltage at the supply end. With larger sizes, you won't be able to connect directly to the 50 amp breaker or receptacle so you will need a junction box at each end to downsize to 50 amp rated wire. If you are in a location where it gets damp over the winter and the receptacle is in an unheated space, I would recommend copper. Or if using aluminum, use the correct aluminum to copper splice for damp/wet locations. This is where you will need an electrician with the right tools and knowledge.

You should never plug in a 30 or 50 amp RV cord in live as it can result in damage to the receptacle or plug in the long run. The metal contacts get pitted and leads to high resistance which can melt a plug or receptacle or even cause a fire. I highly recommend that you install a disconnect switch at the RV receptacle. I used a motor-rated disconnect switch for this purpose to handle the momentary inrush current (caused by the converter). That's the zap you will hear and the flash in the dark.

If you don't have one, I'd get a surge protector that will cut out upon low voltage to protect the AC unit(s) and anything else sensitive to low voltage. I would use a permanently mounted voltmeter to monitor in an easy to read spot to see what's happening at a glance.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:23 PM   #17
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thanks everyone looks like ill go to 6 wire now to find the best price
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:28 PM   #18
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It's cheaper to go with Romex style than single wires and conduit.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:10 AM   #19
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I'm not too certain on that, Dunner. Contracted out, I agree. DIY not so. PVC conduit is cheap and easy to work with. Getting access to your service box with it may be a challenge. Roles of #6 come in different lengths for less money and the ground can be #8. I think #10 will work but the code may have changed since i last looked.

About all of the fancy pedestal service boxes recommended? If this is a simple 'park it in my yard' situation a breaker in your existing service center will work fine. The multi-breaker pedestal box needs a larger service feed by law and logic. A 20A, 30A and 50A current could potentially end up on one leg from the main feed. At least a total of 80A potential load is there.

Check out this box. I am plugged into one as we speak. http://products.connecticut-electric.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=CESMPS54HR&CatId={DC2498B8-0DED-45C0-BA09-76F22ACCD492}

I have used Connecticut Electric several times and their service is great and friendly.

Enjoy shopping!

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Old 07-30-2013, 06:47 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post

About all of the fancy pedestal service boxes recommended? If this is a simple 'park it in my yard' situation a breaker in your existing service center will work fine. The multi-breaker pedestal box needs a larger service feed by law and logic. A 20A, 30A and 50A current could potentially end up on one leg from the main feed. At least a total of 80A potential load is there.

Check out this box. I am plugged into one as we speak. http://products.connecticut-electric.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=CESMPS54HR&CatId={DC2498B8-0DED-45C0-BA09-76F22ACCD492}
I went with a very similar box, only difference mine opens up rather than from the side. I wish now I had went with one with a breaker in it just for the convenience of being able to throw the breaker at the plug when connecting or disconnecting.

I let my electrician buddy talk me into saving a few bucks by using the breaker in the sub panel instead of placing a breaker at the plug. Oh well, guess the exercise of walking to and from the garage is good for me.
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:42 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
Here is a link that is your BEST friend when owning a RV.

RV Electric

Down the page after clicking on 50 amp RV Service you will see a wire size calculator.

Wire Size Calculator

When you input the parameters, it states that you would need #3 gauge for a 140 feet run 50 amp 120 VAC run.

To me that makes sense versus what was suggested in previous posts. My shore cable is #6 gauge and it's only 30 feet long. You are talking 140 feet plus.

Better safe than end up with a burned up RV.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
thanks but the link doesn't work RV electric one can u plse resend im going with a 6 thnn i need to know if a 10 is a good enough ground ? ditch is dug so now im ready
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:11 PM   #22
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:19 PM   #23
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Try the link in this post.
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:56 PM   #24
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thanks but the link doesn't work RV electric one can u plse resend im going with a 6 thnn i need to know if a 10 is a good enough ground ? ditch is dug so now im ready
Do NOT try to use iRV2.com on your smart phone. The app isn't that smart nor is the phone.

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Old 08-01-2013, 05:15 AM   #25
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Do NOT try to use iRV2.com on your smart phone. The app isn't that smart nor is the phone.

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Old 08-01-2013, 05:36 AM   #26
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Good morning fxdave. Just drove 400 mi so this forum has not been on my mind. DW in bed and I have a few minutes.

I know I have see sites for ground size calculation but I can't find one now. Early morning mind fogg I guess. When you go for the spool of #6 look at the #6-3/w ground and see what size ground it has. Can't go wrong then. Also, I hope you are using pvc conduit. I can't imagine you wouldn't. I put a strip of yellow warning tape over the top of my underground DIY installations. Code requires this among other things but DIYers tend to ignore the code. The tape just seems like a good idea.

I hope your weather is better than here. No fun running wire in the rain!
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:39 PM   #27
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thanks everyone link is working 120 ft ditch dug ,1 in pvc conduit laid filled back in taped off for tonight wire tomm or sat finish it up were using 10 for the ground fyi THNN is better to use than romex higher ratings any ways got it half done hardest part anyways this site just rocks
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Old 08-03-2013, 10:34 PM   #28
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pulled a 1000 ft of wire today full hook ups tomm
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