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Old 08-04-2013, 06:04 AM   #29
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Enjoy the convenience of your new RV power. Happy trails,
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Old 08-04-2013, 06:26 AM   #30
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I agree withqwert 66 and is is going underground if so you need underground cable
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:34 AM   #31
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ok here is the breakdown 232.00 for 500ft #6 thnn 93.00 500ft #10 130 ft 1 in conduit 35.00 1 roll blue coil conduit 13.00 50 amp breaker 20.00 15 amp double up breaker 15.00 50 amp receptacle box 35.00 1 bag concrete already had a 4 ft 4x4 3.00 marking tape 5.00 1 case bud light Platinum { my help drinks that } 21.00 and some miscellaneous items so far outa pocket 450 now i just gotta pay my buddy ! what did you guys pay for help ? remember i dug the ditch just curious hes helped pull the wire and get it to the box
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Old 08-04-2013, 10:31 PM   #32
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Its all done and the RV is cooling down nicely ! all said an done at around 750 i gave my buddy 200 for his part 550 in material i also added a 20 amp service plug at the end it will be nice for the boat so i had a 1000 ft in wire to boot
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Old 08-05-2013, 06:15 AM   #33
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You did a good job and it is safe in the conduit. UG is not needed for this type of installation, only if direct bury. You asked for verbal assistance and got so a.. comments along with it. Sorry about that. Enjoy your finished product with confidence.

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Old 08-05-2013, 09:04 AM   #34
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Bottom line is the Site rocks for info i just love it one just hast to go through it an decide whats best for them ! my electrician actually wanted me to save a 100 by buying 8 thnn but wasn't taking a chance ive blown xtra money everywhere so i went with 6 peace of mind is everything got up this morning RV is cool Refrig cold ect ! gonna love coming back from a trip an just plugging in ! in Florida that's a Big deal it gets Hot and now i have a True mancave to boot ! thanks Everyone !
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Old 08-05-2013, 09:14 AM   #35
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Bottom line is the Site rocks for info i just love it one just hast to go through it an decide whats best for them ! my electrician actually wanted me to save a 100 by buying 8 thnn but wasn't taking a chance ive blown xtra money everywhere so i went with 6 peace of mind is everything got up this morning RV is cool Refrig cold ect ! gonna love coming back from a trip an just plugging in ! in Florida that's a Big deal it gets Hot and now i have a True mancave to boot ! thanks Everyone !
#6 is not at all overkill for a 140ft run. #8 is only rated for 25 ft at 50A I'd be interested in your electricians reasoning behind the #8 recommendation. Other than cost savings, of course. Good job though, you did it the right way, and now you'll not have to worry.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:34 AM   #36
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#6 is not at all overkill for a 140ft run. #8 is only rated for 25 ft at 50A I'd be interested in your electricians reasoning behind the #8 recommendation. Other than cost savings, of course. Good job though, you did it the right way, and now you'll not have to worry.
said it will never use a full 50 amps and 8 thnn would handle it not romex bottom line i spent the xtra now we will see how much it raises the house elect bill
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:41 AM   #37
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said it will never use a full 50 amps and 8 thnn would handle it not romex bottom line i spent the xtra now we will see how much it raises the house elect bill
Ah. Well, apparently he underestimates the 'Man Cave' aspect of the plugged in RV; Every seat taken, Both AC's full blast, Beer in fridge on coldest setting, game on the tube, surround sound system blasting, chicken wings in the oven, etc... #8 won't take it at my place.
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:39 AM   #38
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going to install a 50 amp service at the house the run is about 140 ft ,what size wire would be adequate ive been told 8 will do the trick any body else done it this distance ?
My chart shows that #8 has .641 ohms per 1000 ft. i.e .0641 per 100 ft. Add another 50 ft about .032 and total .096 ohms. Multiply that times 50 amps. I get about 4.8 volts drop. Approx 4%. I think you would be OK with #8
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:58 PM   #39
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I think one factor is missing on the #8 wire. Surge and low voltage. As the voltage goes down on certain type loads, like motors, the current goes up. This produces heat and too much heat is fatal to the device because the windings can't handle the current. So, #6 will allow for a voltage drop that may be closer to the input voltage. I am not doing the math here but I think my point is valid. The code takes in factors we don't consider in 'normal' circumstances.

This thread started out of 'normal' for it is not normal to catch on fire. Something failed. Human error, mechanical failure or both. Following code may cost more out of the gate but save more in property and lives over the long run.
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:18 PM   #40
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And don't forget the derating factor hor multiple conductors in a conduit. No. 8 would never have made it.

Rick
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Old 08-08-2013, 05:09 AM   #41
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Rick must be a 'Rich' name. We agree. lol
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