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Old 11-20-2010, 04:19 PM   #29
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Paul (AFChap) asked why the springs need to replaced in the first place. Like Paul, I've never had any problem with the original springs and thus have no incentive to replace them. The new springs are said to have better force characteristics but the old ones work fine for many folks. Obviously, if the springs ever break, I will replace with with the new ones because that's what would be available.


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Old 11-21-2010, 02:57 PM   #30
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I just replaced all my jack springs. The original springs had the tapered ends. The catalyst to do this was a single jack (not the same one) would sometimes not retract fully. It would get within about 1" and stop. I had to run the jacks up and down a couple of times to get the jack to retract. The offending jack could be raised with my long persuasion bar. Spraying the cylinder did not help. A couple of things I noticed.

1. I used the clothes pin method. No matter how many clothes pins I used I could not hold the pad and get the spring on at the same time. What I did was get an automotive scissors jack and let the jack hold the pad in position as I installed the spring.

2. My old springs are 1 3/4" in diameter. The new springs are 2" in diameter. Assuming the temper put in the metal is the same, the spring should have a bit more power to pull the jack up.

All the jacks work like new.

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Old 11-25-2010, 03:57 PM   #31
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My Springs are going on 8 years old and work like champs. I will not replace mine just because. I will wait for a reason. But thanks for the ideas on how to accomplish the task when needed.

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Old 05-16-2011, 06:06 PM   #32
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I just got two pair, delivered directly from HWH for $50 shipped to the west coast. Had three springs break within one week after 21 years. Pretty good quality control I would say!

To repace them I used a pair of ratchet hpld-down cargo straps. I connected one end of each strap hook to a frame cross member and the used two "S" hooks to hook the end of each spring, each spring held by their own ratchet strap. I tightened the straps and clicked them one click each at a time until the hooks lined up with the base plate and slid the hook into the hole. Slowly loosened the straps and that was it. Took more time to hook up the straps than to ratchet them into place. About a ten minute job total.

WARNING: Work with the ratchet end away from the jack, and work off to the side. Even though you only have to ratchet about four clicks each side to get the springs in place (depending on the spring and the ratchet) you are still creating potential energy!
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:57 AM   #33
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Nice job and picks. I found the thread while searching on how to get my base plate back on after it slipped off the jack when my block sunk and tipped.
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:58 PM   #34
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How do I tell what model of HWH levelers I have. I have the manual but there is no model given on the manual, and I can't find one on the actual leveler. Any ideas???
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:04 PM   #35
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There should be a silver color tag on the jacks. They may be on the inside. If you get down and look closely you should see it.
Good luck!
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:24 PM   #36
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Here is a way on how to do them and this is a link for different coach MFG's and parts.
More information by MAX can be found in QT's # 3.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:42 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by tbomn View Post
How do I tell what model of HWH levelers I have. I have the manual but there is no model given on the manual, and I can't find one on the actual leveler. Any ideas???
If you have a manual leveling HWH system, it is most likely a 305/325 model. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you the HWH service manual for the 305/325 which is very useful.
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Old 05-03-2014, 09:42 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by srh View Post
There should be a silver color tag on the jacks. They may be on the inside. If you get down and look closely you should see it.
Good luck!

The model number of the jack is underneath the silver tag, peel the silver tag off, and there is then another one underneath it with the model number. The silver tag is to protect the writing on the one underneath.
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Old 05-03-2014, 05:30 PM   #39
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l had to use shims on my first rv to change the springs. Just changed mine. I was able to just push the foot plate off, remove the springs, reattach new springs, and then force the foot plate back on. It was so easy it make me think the springs were about an inch too short but HWH insists they are the correct springs. Who am I to argue. They still don't lift the jacks properly but I am change them because they were looking rusted and one just broke when camping in FL.
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Old 08-29-2014, 09:02 AM   #40
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Smile Thanks Max

Just replaced a set of springs using your method Max, worked like a charm.
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:50 PM   #41
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my husband is going to replace the springs on the levelers on our 1997 Trek so I think the photos are great DIY assist, thank you.
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Old 03-09-2016, 12:37 PM   #42
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Can't thank the OP enough for the pointers. I wasn't sure how the heck I was going to do this.

Other than HWH is there a better, less expensive place to order springs from?

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