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Old 02-12-2009, 11:25 AM   #1
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I installed new springs on my left rear jack today. I had previously done the right rear. It took two guys to do the first one about 9 months ago-- and it was a job!!. I did this one today in about 30 minutes, another member-- Tom N-- Winnebago forum member, told us the easy way--- I did this one by myself. I've made a number of pictures and thought some folks might be able to do it themselves also.

1- I needed about 30 1/8" wooden spacers (cut them about an inch long)-- paint sticks work fine.

2- An 8 ft piece of 2 X 4.

3- A long heavy duty screw driver.

4- A large pair of angled pliers (water pump type).

5- A brake spring tool

Here we go:

Old spring in the extended position-- to insert spacers.



Old spring removed-- Push the hydraulic ram all the way up with the 2 X 4. Leave the system turned on to accomplish this.



Old and new spring side by side.



Bend the new spring and insert spacers.I put the ends in a big bench vice. I even took the picture while holding the spring with the large curve in it-- No helpers around today- .



New springs with spacers-- I had to add many more spacers onto one spring. Overall length had to increase by about 2 inches from the original static spring length. I used a couple of my wooden leveling blocks, and, the 2 X 4 to prop up the round foot pad. Then I used the brake spring pliers to hook the remaining spring onto the foot pad.



New springs installed--



Here's a pic of the brake pliers I used to pull the spring onto the pad.



Both rear jacks were slow coming up and sometimes a bump would set off the alarm. That's why I put new springs on.

That's about it-- Good luck to those who want to try this. It was relatively easy done this way. With the first one I did I had a heck of a time. The tech at HWH said just pull down on it hard-- Ha, Ha. He probably has the coaches over a pit and he's standing down below ----
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Old 02-12-2009, 12:26 PM   #2
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Hi Max,
Been there and done that. Thanks for the excellent pics.
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:32 PM   #3
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Interesting. but why wouldn't it be eaiser to install them in the retracted poaition?
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:44 PM   #4
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Rainbow,

Maybe my pictures and description are not clear.

1- The old springs are extended to install the spacers.

2- Then the jacks are retracted, and helped all the way up into the stowed position with a piece of 2 X 4. Then one spring is removed with a pair of large pliers. The other spring end justs lifts off.

3- Now the new springs are installed with their spacers --- the jack is in the fully retracted position.

4-Then the jacks are extended and the spacers just drop out easily--- That's the pile of spacers at the base of the foot pad.

Sorry, it wasn't clear---
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Old 02-13-2009, 03:36 PM   #5
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Thanks for the info and photo's Max... Although I don't need to replace them yet, sooner or later I probably will and I was wondering how one might go about it.

Good information
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Old 02-13-2009, 05:26 PM   #6
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Thanks Max, sure beets using a long crow bar.
Will have to add to Quick-Tips under Max's Mod's.
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Old 02-14-2009, 12:56 PM   #7
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When we have replaced our Leveler Jack Springs we always buy a box of clothes pins, the spring type. take the springs off the clothes pins, which leaves you with a big pile of hard maple wedges.
Insert the wedges into the bent springs as above and away you go.
Gets you to the same place, just by a smoother road!
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Old 02-14-2009, 02:03 PM   #8
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Why do the leveling jack springs need to be replaced? I have heard of HWH having some weak ones a few years ago, but other than faulty springs to begin with, how common is it for them to need to be replaced? I sure haven't noticed any problem with mine...
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Old 02-14-2009, 03:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by AFChap:
Why do the leveling jack springs need to be replaced? I have heard of HWH having some weak ones a few years ago, but other than faulty springs to begin with, how common is it for them to need to be replaced?
I had 2 springs break. HWH replaced both, under warranty, with a new pair. They shipped the springs directly to me.

-Tom
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Old 02-14-2009, 04:56 PM   #10
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I just replaced my rear springs. All I used was 2 large screwdrivers to pry the plate down and off of the center pin - jacks retracted. Then I slid it over and off the shaft. Then I removed the springs and hung the base plate on the new springs. I then pushed - by hand - the plate back towards the center pin. I had to use the 2 screwdrivers to pry down on the plate to get the pin out of the outer ring and into the center of the base plate. Faster than I could write this.
Hope this helps.
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Old 09-02-2009, 03:01 PM   #11
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HWH jack spring replacement

I just used the 28 cloths pin halfs per spring method to replace the springs on my 310 series jacks. Took about 20 minutes per jack total. Can't thank you enough for the info.
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Old 09-04-2009, 05:35 PM   #12
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Nice photos, and I have used this method, but you only need shims on one of the springs.

-Tom
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:40 AM   #13
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Max, I surely appreciate you taking the time and effort to carefully document your spring replacement. Your pictures are worth a lot. It is nearly impossible to describe this with words. I have heard of the spacer method before but your pictures make it perfectly clear. As a one man job, your method is probably the best and it is sure. Thirty minutes or an hour to complete a job is nothing. So often I spend that amount of time just to find out my method won't work.
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:22 PM   #14
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I just replaced mine using the method above. Most helpful and thanks a bunch.

Instead of brake pliers, I used an 8" radiator hose remover. It looks like a beefy icepick but the end is squared off. I got it at Harbor Freight for $3.99.
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