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03-07-2017, 09:29 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrt_1111
What type of issue are you having?
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I have a Intellitec BCC and the Aux Start doesn't seem to be working. I replaced the solenoid with this one:
Cole Hersee 24213
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03-07-2017, 10:20 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,964
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Scott-
Maybe I missed something. Did you ever put a meter on the small wires and determine definitively which one was activated by the aux boost switch? I ask because my reaction after looking at the picture is that the left-hand relay is the battery interconnect (aux boost) relay (I'm not dumping on "twinboat" with this statement).
I'm trying to track down diagrams or other pictures/posts to sort this out, but in the meantime...
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
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03-07-2017, 11:53 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1
Scott-
Maybe I missed something. Did you ever put a meter on the small wires and determine definitively which one was activated by the aux boost switch? I ask because my reaction after looking at the picture is that the left-hand relay is the battery interconnect (aux boost) relay (I'm not dumping on "twinboat" with this statement).
I'm trying to track down diagrams or other pictures/posts to sort this out, but in the meantime...
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I'm good with it, I could be wrong.
It just looks like the left hand relay, is a latching relay. Common in disconnect relays.
Every isolation relay I've seen is a continuous duty N.O. relay.
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03-07-2017, 02:37 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,964
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On a closer look at the BCC instruction manual and the picture, I believe you're correct, "twinboat"; the silver solenoid is the one that connects the two batteries.
One of the small terminals is ground. The other is the activation terminal. What I'd recommend is test for ground, then remove all wires from the small terminals except for the ground. Shut down any outside voltage sources, such as 120V or generator, leaving only the house and chassis battery connections. Measure and record the voltages between each large lug and ground.
Then, using a jumper wire of suitable size, jump a 12V signal to the activation terminal. You should hear a strong click as the solenoid coil moves the contactor assembly inside the solenoid.
Leaving the jumper in place, check that the voltage is identical on both large lugs of the solenoid. Compare the value to previous values. Remove the jumper.
This will establish if the solenoid is working correctly. Once that's done, bring the 120V and converter back on line and repeat. Voltages should tell you if charging is underway and passing from house to chassis. Most of what matters is that the voltage is the same on each large lug.
Having confirmed the solenoid is working properly, the next step is to determine why the AUX BOOST switch and/or the IRD/BIRD circuit is not working.
One step at a time, though.
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
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03-07-2017, 11:54 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focker
I have a Intellitec BCC and the Aux Start doesn't seem to be working. I replaced the solenoid with this one:
Cole Hersee 24213
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Just wondering because if both chassis and coach batteries are fully charged, pushing the aux start button would result in?? On mine a solenoid would energize but really no change until one of the batteries was discharged. Might see a minor jump in voltage if monitoring with a volt meter or scanguage.
Once again on mine, the engine charges both set of batteries. With the engine running, check the voltage on both sides of the solenoid. Should be the same. Turn the engine off and check continuity (using an ohm meter) on the solenoid, there should be none.
__________________
Mark
1999 Bounder 32H Ford V10, 2012 Ford Focus, Pretty DW, 1 cat. Retired USAF
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03-08-2017, 10:52 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,358
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Hi all and thank you for adding input. Here is my current follow up and some lead in:
The whole issue started because my chassis battery had low voltage (I have now replaced that). When hitting the Aux switch it did nothing so there was no way to start the coach using the Aux switch although my house batteries were full and strong.
I replaced the solenoid with the unit I referenced above (Cole Hersee 24213). Although the fuse was good I changed it out for good measure. The troubleshooting guide claims the fuse to change is F17 however after talking to Intellitec tech support they said that is a misprint and it is fuse F5 (which is a 5 amp fuse).
As Mark (l1v3fr33ord1) said above, one of the small terminals is the ground. It is the one with the black wire. Ground is very good.
Now that the new solenoid is installed I am getting equal voltage on both sides and I suspect I cured something because... I have solar to the house batteries and prior to this my chassis battery required me to hook up a charger if the coach sat dormant for more than a few days however now so it seems to also be charging the chassis too (would that be a BIRD thing?) and voltage is staying up nicely.
So here is where I am at this point, I do not hear a click when I engage the Aux switch however because both sets of batteries are fully charged I think Mark (mrt_1111) might be on to something that now nothing happens when hitting the switch because all batteries are good. I do hear a click if I pull the F5 fuse and than reinstall it.
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03-08-2017, 11:07 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focker
Hi all and thank you for adding input. Here is my current follow up and some lead in:
The whole issue started because my chassis battery had low voltage (I have now replaced that). When hitting the Aux switch it did nothing so there was no way to start the coach using the Aux switch although my house batteries were full and strong.
I replaced the solenoid with the unit I referenced above (Cole Hersee 24213). Although the fuse was good I changed it out for good measure. The troubleshooting guide claims the fuse to change is F17 however after talking to Intellitec tech support they said that is a misprint and it is fuse F5 (which is a 5 amp fuse).
As Mark (l1v3fr33ord1) said above, one of the small terminals is the ground. It is the one with the black wire. Ground is very good.
Now that the new solenoid is installed I am getting equal voltage on both sides and I suspect I cured something because... I have solar to the house batteries and prior to this my chassis battery required me to hook up a charger if the coach sat dormant for more than a few days however now so it seems to also be charging the chassis too (would that be a BIRD thing?) and voltage is staying up nicely.
So here is where I am at this point, I do not hear a click when I engage the Aux switch however because both sets of batteries are fully charged I think Mark (mrt_1111) might be on to something that now nothing happens when hitting the switch because all batteries are good. I do hear a click if I pull the F5 fuse and than reinstall it.
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You don't hear it activate because it already is activated. As long as there is a charging source, over13.2 volts, on either battery bank, it activates. That's what a Bi-directional ( BIRD ), Isolation relay with Delay does, when working properly.
Shut off the solar, pull the shore cord power and leave the engine off. Run down your house batteries for an hour or so and then check both sides of your isolation solenoid. The volts should be different. Now you should be able to use your AUX switch to make it activate and the volts will equal out.
With no charging source avalable, the isolation relay should be open. That protects one battery bank from draining the other.
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03-08-2017, 11:28 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,964
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It is as "twinboat" says, but I think there's an easy way to test the AUX BOOST switch.
If you look at figure 4 in the Intellitec manual, you'll see that F5 supplies power to the BIRD. To test the AUX BOOST switch, pull the fuse first, then hit the switch. You should hear the click, and see the voltage equalize on the large lugs.
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
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04-14-2017, 07:43 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,358
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I somehow just realized that I never updated this thread
I purchased the Cole Hersee 24213 that I linked above from Amazon and all problems are solved! In fact I had thought that the rooftop solar didn't charge the chassis battery, only the house batteries but after installing this part in I have now found that the chassis battery is always fully charged where as prior to the repair I was connecting it to a wall charger every month or so if the little solar maintainer in the front window didn't keep up (during times of clouds and bad weather).
So happy that I changed the solenoid and after checking the chassis battery every few days for the first month I realized I can just relax and move on to something else
Thank you everyone for the help!!
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