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Old 04-13-2008, 09:47 AM   #1
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I've installed a 2000 Watt, modified sine wave, Vector, MAXX SST inverter. My coach did not have one. I want to run a small 1.5 cu ft (1.3 amp) freezer/refrige running down the highways.

Now the problem--- The inverter runs but goes into a fault mode in several minutes. I plugged my "Good Governor" into the inverter circuit and it sez I've got a wiring problem. Since I take my power directly from the house batteries (2, 6 volt golf cart batteries, in series) could my converter charging circuitry be giving me this problem? And if it is- what can I do about this?

I unpluged shore power, and even turned off all power to the house batteries, and the "Good Governor" still reads that I have a wiring problem.

Any ideas,

Thanks,
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:47 AM   #2
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I've installed a 2000 Watt, modified sine wave, Vector, MAXX SST inverter. My coach did not have one. I want to run a small 1.5 cu ft (1.3 amp) freezer/refrige running down the highways.

Now the problem--- The inverter runs but goes into a fault mode in several minutes. I plugged my "Good Governor" into the inverter circuit and it sez I've got a wiring problem. Since I take my power directly from the house batteries (2, 6 volt golf cart batteries, in series) could my converter charging circuitry be giving me this problem? And if it is- what can I do about this?

I unpluged shore power, and even turned off all power to the house batteries, and the "Good Governor" still reads that I have a wiring problem.

Any ideas,

Thanks,
Max H
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Old 04-13-2008, 10:46 AM   #3
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You should not have your converter/charger running when the inverter is on - you are simply pulling power from the batteries, converting to AC and then re-converting to DC to replace the power you just took out. Since the conversion process isn't 100% efficient, you get a net loss as long as the converter is running. The converter should not be on a circuit powered by the inverter. Add a disconnect switch if necessary to prevent it from running - or just unplug it if you have that option.

However, running the converter is not a "wiring problem". What does the Good Governor indicate specifically? I'm not familiar with that particular tool, but similar tools usually show "Open ground" or "Reversed polarity" or something like that, more specific than just "wiring problem". Also, your inverter documentation ought to say what the possible causes of "fault mode" may be.

Your symptoms sound more like the inverter is shutting down because of low battery voltage. If the "wiring problem" was causing the shut down, it would be more immediate. What size battery bank do you have and how much power are you consuming?

Also, how is connection to the RV made? The MAXX SST's I have seen all have 2-3 120VAC outlets on the front of the inverter and you simply plug in what you want powered. Are you plugging in the entire RV via its shore power cord or simply running an extension to the refrigerator?
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Old 04-13-2008, 12:02 PM   #4
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Thanks Gary,
I've got two 6 volt golf batteries. Their in good shape and read 12.6 volts with no power input/drain after 24 hours. There were two positive leads on the batteries before I added a third for the inverter. I think I will remove the original two and leave the new inverter lead on just for a test.

My "Good Governor" is a digital, LED, readout of cycles and voltage, ie: "it is a peak averaging voltmeter". It only defines a "center" LED light up, which I have on the inverter plug ins, as "note: If the center light lights up there is a wiring problem".
I have used it as a check on all camp grounds I have visited in the last five or so years, prior to hook up. This is the first time the center light has come on. I run nothing else on this circuit but the small Freezer/Fidge. It has a short, about 5 ft- 14ga, extension to run the freezer. I know the house batteries are charged by the converter, while on shore power, and by the alternator when running down the road. I will isolate the battery pack by temporarly disconnecting the other two positive leads. We'll see what happens then---
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Old 04-13-2008, 04:09 PM   #5
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Most such instruments do not indicate properly when the neutral and ground are not bonded together, as is the case with inverters and many generators-I bet your wiring is OK. I would guess your problem is either it is trying to draw too much power or your connection to the battery is deficient. Try plugging in a light or something relatively small directly into the inverter and see if the problem occurs. Perhaps the starting power demand is too high with the refrigerator.
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Old 04-13-2008, 04:12 PM   #6
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Or your inverter may be defective-try adding load to it by plugging in other stuff and see if it shuts down at some load level.
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Old 04-13-2008, 05:06 PM   #7
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TomBR
Thanks-- I too thought the starting load might be too high, but this size unit should handle a 25 amp, or more, startup- it has a 4000 watt surge capibility- it only has a 1.3 amp draw when running. The freezer starts okay when I first start it but the inverter goes to default sometime after that. The seller wants to send me another unit. I want to do more checks tomorrow. The cables could be an issue--I used 6/0 for the positive cables (2) up to the 500 amp current limiter and then 4/0 to the positive terminal. The negative cables (2) are 6/0 to the negative post on the batteries. I couldn't use any larger cables because the receptacles on the rear of the inverter would only accept that size. The cable lengths are less than 3 feet, total.
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Old 04-14-2008, 05:53 PM   #8
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Does your inverter have a remote start cable/switch? If so, unplug that remote cable/switch, and just turn it on right at the inverter. I played with my inverter for several months with eratic operation, and the company even sent me a new one, because they couldn't figure out the eratic operation. I installed the new one and it acted the same. I found that the remote switch cable was picking up interference from somewhere in the motorhome and would cause all kinds of weird things. I pulled the cable out, wrapped it in aluminum foil tape to sheild it, and problems gone..
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:04 PM   #9
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Put your voltmeter on the batteries and turn th inverter on with the fridge for a load. Watch what happens to the voltage.

Your inverter may have a 4000 watt peak, but your batteries don't. You would have to pull 350 amps from the batteries to deliver 4000 watts. The practical limit for continuous draw from a pair of new 6v batteries is around 40-50A and then only for a few minutes. Anything much over 20A is going to cause a rapid drop in battery voltage. And if one of the bats has a weak cell, it won't do even that much.

I think TomBr is right - there is no wiring problem. The Governor probably just does not like the inverter neutral/ground set-up.

Your battery cables are OK for the distance and amount of load. Just don't try to draw 100 amps thru that 6/0 cable.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:51 PM   #10
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Isn't 4/0 good for over 300 amps, and 6/0 for more than that?
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Old 04-15-2008, 03:24 AM   #11
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Wayne,

I got an education on cables when I had them made. 4/0 is a larger gauge than 6/0. In fact a 1/0 is almost as big around as my thumb! The smaller the number, the larger the cable.

I have run the inverter only on the battery pack. I disconnected all the other cables. Same problem. I'm taking the inverter out today and am going to exchange it.
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:41 AM   #12
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Thanks Gary,

I unhooked shore power and was reading 13.3 V with a digital volt meter. I then plugged in a 1/2" electric drill. I read 12.9 V after I ran for a minute. Five minutes later I read 12.8 V. I think the batteries are okay.

I think the inverter can't handle the freezer load. In fact the brand new Freezer/Refridge doesn't cool like it did at first (on shore power).

Everbody wants to replace both items. Maybe the inverter messed up the freezer. I just might give up on the whole idea of running down the road with the freezer operating--
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Old 04-15-2008, 12:16 PM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Max Hubrich:
Wayne,

I got an education on cables when I had them made. 4/0 is a larger gauge than 6/0. In fact a 1/0 is almost as big around as my thumb! The smaller the number, the larger the cable.

I have run the inverter only on the battery pack. I disconnected all the other cables. Same problem. I'm taking the inverter out today and am going to exchange it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You have that backwards, a 6/0 gauge wire is bigger than a 4/0 gauge. On the other hand, a 4 gauge wire is bigger than a 6.

a 4/0 wire is short for 0000 gauge and 6 is short for 000000. Wire gauge does indeed get bigger as the numbers go lower until they reach 0. After 0 they go 00, 000, 0000...or 1/0, 2/0 ...

I suggest measureing the voltage where it hits your inverter...not where it leaves the battery. Could be you used the wrong gauge wire and you are getting a large voltage drop.

Also, modfied sine wave inverters are not that great with inductive loads like your freezer. You may want to ask the manufacturer if they reccomend a modified or true sime wave inverter.
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Old 04-15-2008, 01:05 PM   #14
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Thanks Babcock' I guess they made up 6 and 4 gauge leads for me-- sorry.
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