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Old 06-16-2005, 02:47 PM   #15
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Hi Ho: Why do you think there is an inverter? Most gas motorhomes built by WI do not have large inverters from the factory. The Adventurer series has a little 300-watt inverter for the overhead entertainment system but that is all. Inverters range from about 10 watts to over 3000 watts and prices range from a few dollars to thousands. You would probably not want (or be able) to run the AC from an inverter becasue it takes too much power. If you explain why you think there is an inverter and what type your question will be more easily answered.
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Old 06-16-2005, 11:16 PM   #16
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Thanks Dirk/Katie, you are probably right....our unit does not have an inverter. I looked again through the binder of all of manuals...the only thing it shows is a converter, a unit that supplies 12 volt from 110V and I believe that unit includes a bat charger.

I thought I might have had an inverter because our truck camper (a 2000 Bigfoot model 3000) came with both an inverter, converter, bat charger and solar controller.

I know that I am not able to run an AC with an inverter. If I had an inverter I would use it for small loads such as a TV and radio... recharging our laptop battery....other smaller devices. We got very use to using the inverter in our Bigfoot truck camper.

Our new, used MH also has two large solar panels for keeping the bat charged; and again I don't see a control panel for the solar. There is a small electronic device (solar controller??) tucked away inside the fridge opening (the fridge part one accesses outside the rv) with a small light that is on.

I am trying to decide whether I should rewire the unit with modern inverter, converter, bat charger, and solar controller (all like our Bigfoot has)...or just leave it all alone as everything seems to work...possibly we could purchase one of those cheapy inverter units that plugs into the 12-volt outlet...using it to power the smaller load AC accessories. What do you think?

Thanks, IVER D
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Old 06-16-2005, 11:34 PM   #17
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Hello again, I just read page 1 which basically discusses my problem and needs. I think my answer is on that page--excellent support (!)...but again I welcome any comments/suggestions to my
Posted June 17, 2005 03:16 AM message.
IVER D
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Old 06-17-2005, 12:09 AM   #18
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After rereading page 1 and learning that large cables are needed to properly install an inverter and that the inverter should be close to the battery I went to my battery box and sure enough in the bat compartment there is this device bolted next to batteries that has very fat cables going to it from the battery. It has what appears to be cooling fins....could this be an inverter? I did not see a name label on it...but I will blow out some of the dust later today to get a better view. If it is an inverter I will have to figure out how to activate it from inside the cab; there is a bunch of switches etc under the bed ...access from a cabinet door. Earlier I thought I had tried all combinations...

On the solar controller issue, the device inside the fridge access area I referred to above is called an ACS Battery Charger From A Photovoltaic System...so this must be the solar contoller. The little red light red was NOT on....it is dark out now here in FL...also I have the top of the rv completely covered with a blue tarp; normally during the day when the rv is not covered this light is on.

As I said in an earlier post we bought this unit in OR a few weeks ago...now we are in FL and I have time to learn all about its systems. IWD
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Old 06-17-2005, 12:41 AM   #19
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Hemi, If you can take a picture and post it here we could definitely tell you what is in tha battery compartment. I doubt it is an inverter. My guess right now is that it is a battery isolator; a devise that will allow charging of the house batteries from the altenator of the drive engine but then disconnects when the engine is shut down to prevent draining of the chassis battery while using the hose battery bank. The controller in the ref. vent chase is the solor controller and the light comes on when the panel is putting out power to the battery bank.
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Old 06-17-2005, 02:54 PM   #20
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Mike, here is the picture; let me know, thanks, IVER
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Old 06-18-2005, 11:22 PM   #21
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It is as I thought an isolator, not an inverter.
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Old 06-19-2005, 02:38 PM   #22
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Thanks...now I know, again, thanks, IWD
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Old 06-21-2005, 01:46 PM   #23
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Hello Again, I am still investigating this RV. Here is what is under the bed:
From left to right

Batt charger, then convertor, then double switch

There is no inverter.

All systems are neatly place; wiring looks excellent, when the 110 Power is on, there is a very slight "hum", believe coming from the converter.

Both the batt charger and converter have rather large transformers---I can see them through the vents.

While everything works fine, do you think I should swap out everything for modern technology....the units are 1986 or possibly older? (the RV is an 86 Holiday Rambler class A).

Another issue: these units are in a large compartment under the bed....this could be a hazard (fire); I could cover with heavy piece of aluminum...

Finally, I have a bigfoot 3000, year 2000 camper, all the inverter, convertor, batt charge sits under the sink; the units are small...

Because I would like to install an inverter, this might be the time to remove everything and start from scratch...on the other hand what I have works fine...if I left in place I could install via the instructions provide on this thread...the one with the wiring diagram for a 1500 watt inverter posted on the thread. Hemi
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Old 06-22-2005, 03:03 AM   #24
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If it were me, I'd leave it all alone & just add the new inverter. And I would not cover the stuff with aluminum. It needs to 'breathe'.
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Old 06-22-2005, 05:49 AM   #25
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I'm with troth - leave it "as is" and add an inverter (not an inverter/charger - just an inverter). You can pick up a modified sine wave inverter of whatever size you feel you need for $30-$200 and wire it direct to the battery compartment (keep the wire run as short as possible).

IMPORTANT: make sure you wire the inverter to the desired house outlets in a manner that prevent you from ever having both shore power and inverter power on simulataneously. An auto-transfer switch is the easiest way but they are pricey. A double-throw switch works as easily and costs a lot less - you just have to remember which position you left the switch in.
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Old 06-22-2005, 07:40 AM   #26
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Thanks Gary and Troth,
Your recommendations sound very good; leave what I have alone...buy an inverter only and connect to the RV battery (there are three in parallel). I will make the battery to inverter totally separate to the extent that I will install separate 110 outlets (labelled inverter only) so as to totally eliminate the possibilty of having shore power and interter power in the same circuit. I only need 2-3 outlets and thus should be no problem. And I will keep wires from battery to the new inverter as short as possible.

Good tip not covering the old system...but I was not wishing to cover it completely....just a piece of aluminum just beneath the board the mattress sits on.

Again, great support. Thanks, IWD

Many thanks, Iver..."Hemi"
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