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Itasca hydraulic pump motor
09-23-2010, 07:11 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Zanesville , Ohio
Posts: 16
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I have a hydraulic pump that will not run even when supplied with 12 directly to the motor. My question is: Has anyone worked on the motor itself? I was wondering if they are rebuild-able to any extent. I contacted HWH but they have no motor information, but they do have a repacement motor. $224.
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09-23-2010, 07:31 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Western Montana
Posts: 169
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Which pump is it, the levers pump?
How about some info on the rig?
Yes I have taken a few of them apart and repaired as needed - saves a load of $$$
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Retired & Loving Life
Too many projects, Never enough time
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09-23-2010, 01:19 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Zanesville , Ohio
Posts: 16
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2002 Itasca IPF32V Workhorse chassis 8.1 L engine the HWH # is AP2260 but they told me this was obsolete, replaced by RAP90311. thanks for the reply Bob
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09-23-2010, 05:48 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Western WA
Posts: 481
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Try a local starter/alternator repair shop. They may be able to help you.
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'07 Winnebago Journey 34H,
Toad - "08 Ford Taurus X
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Hydraulic pump motor repair
10-08-2010, 02:40 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Zanesville , Ohio
Posts: 16
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I took this to a auto electric shop and they fixed it pronto for $40.00 just a faulty ground inside the motor. Thanks for all the replies. Bob
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01-02-2011, 11:31 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 29
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Bob I am having the same problem but have yet to tackle it. The solenoid works and it's getting power through it but the motor doesn't work. I was thinking the same thing on a local repair shop because it almost looks like an automobile starter motor so I am guessing it works on the same principle. When you took the motor out of the end of the hydraulic tank, mine is located on the side of the tank, is it sealed or do I need to drain the fluid first?
Sorry to dig up an old thread but that's what happens when you search. :-)
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Itasca hydraulic pump motor
01-03-2011, 09:35 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Zanesville , Ohio
Posts: 16
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The motor is sealed from the pump and resivoir. There is only two bolts on mine,small about 5/16 hex head. My solenoids were held on by a gear clamp so all I had to do was loosen the gear clamp take out the two bolts and slide out the motor. The auto-electric shop said it had a bad ground, it only had to be cleaned. I hope this helps, Bob
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01-03-2011, 09:51 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 29
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Thanks Bob. I am trying to call them now to see. Mine is an older 110 model unit with basically the resivoir box and then the motor on the end. I didn't see any solenoids in that area where the motor is at. If it doesn't leak and make a mess I am going to dig into it. There is a local hydraulic shop that sponsors me and my racing so I was thinking I would get them to work on it before I spent the $300 for a refurbished model from HWH. I am sure it can be fixed just like a starter or something.
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03-06-2011, 08:23 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 12
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Hi there
I need to remove pump from reservoir but like you have pump on end or reservoir
I cannot see 2 bolts,the only 2 hold the reservoir in place any ideas on how motor removes
Many thanks
Regards
Oldun
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03-06-2011, 10:30 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrhockey
Thanks Bob. I am trying to call them now to see. Mine is an older 110 model unit with basically the resivoir box and then the motor on the end. I didn't see any solenoids in that area where the motor is at. If it doesn't leak and make a mess I am going to dig into it. There is a local hydraulic shop that sponsors me and my racing so I was thinking I would get them to work on it before I spent the $300 for a refurbished model from HWH. I am sure it can be fixed just like a starter or something.
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I pulled the 2 5/16" bolt out of the motor and took it to the starter/alternator repair shop and he fixed it for $57. It didn't have a good ground running through it so he fixed that and actually improved the way the motor grounds itself with an external wire.
Oldun, the bolts are right on the end of the round pump motor if that's what you have. They run all the way through the motor into the reservior.
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03-11-2011, 12:00 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrhockey
I pulled the 2 5/16" bolt out of the motor and took it to the starter/alternator repair shop and he fixed it for $57. It didn't have a good ground running through it so he fixed that and actually improved the way the motor grounds itself with an external wire.
Oldun, the bolts are right on the end of the round pump motor if that's what you have. They run all the way through the motor into the reservior.
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hi
thanks for info,found bolts and removed motor which unfortunateley was burnt out and beyond repair but found the original manufacture agent in uk and saved over $100against hwh prices
thanks again
oldun
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04-14-2011, 09:48 AM
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#13
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Junior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldun
hi
thanks for info,found bolts and removed motor which unfortunateley was burnt out and beyond repair but found the original manufacture agent in uk and saved over $100against hwh prices
thanks again
oldun
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Hi peeps - baby's first post on this forum! Thanks for the info on this motor - I have an A-class in the UK whose slide-out motor has finally given up after several weeks of threatening to.  I'll try removing it shortly and run it in to a sparky shop to see if they can repair it.
oldun, I've just PMd you - where did you get your replacement in the UK?
Thanks,
Dougie.
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04-14-2011, 10:55 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 19
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UPDATE - motor removed easily (tiny bolt heads though! Wouldn't have believed they retained it if I hadn't read it here..) and will be taken to auto-electrician's tomorrow for (hopefully) a fix. Thanks again.
Dougie.
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