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Old 06-12-2008, 03:17 PM   #1
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I have never been able to turn off the power steps in my 99 National Tradewinds. I've pulled the switch panel in the exiting stairwell
and found that the switch is actuall "dead". No power to it at all. I can't find any of the fuses shown, so the one to the switch may be out. I may just re-wire the hot side of the switch, using another fuse. I'll give a URL to the wiring diagram so you can see it. Since the step work properly (except to turn the off) the switch, as it is, has absolutely nothing to do with the steps. Looking at the diagram, I can only assume that the white wire from the switch, if it had current, would cause the control panel to shut off.

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this matter.

See the wiring diagram at:

http://www.rvweb.net/tech_lib/quicke_fig1.html

Any help will surely be appreciated.

Jim
Vacationing in Calif
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Old 06-12-2008, 03:17 PM   #2
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I have never been able to turn off the power steps in my 99 National Tradewinds. I've pulled the switch panel in the exiting stairwell
and found that the switch is actuall "dead". No power to it at all. I can't find any of the fuses shown, so the one to the switch may be out. I may just re-wire the hot side of the switch, using another fuse. I'll give a URL to the wiring diagram so you can see it. Since the step work properly (except to turn the off) the switch, as it is, has absolutely nothing to do with the steps. Looking at the diagram, I can only assume that the white wire from the switch, if it had current, would cause the control panel to shut off.

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this matter.

See the wiring diagram at:

http://www.rvweb.net/tech_lib/quicke_fig1.html

Any help will surely be appreciated.

Jim
Vacationing in Calif
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Old 06-12-2008, 04:06 PM   #3
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Usually the ignition switch input overrides the on off switch so you can't drive away with the steps down. Since you don't have power at the on/off switch, the 1 amp fuse that they call for in the diagram is probally blown. Does the steps go down with the ignition off? Or only when the ignition switch is on? If so locate that fuse and your problem should be solved, The only way to stop the steps from operating at all is to install a switch on the 30 amp power feed, but then your step failsafe will not work when that switch is off.
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Old 06-12-2008, 04:30 PM   #4
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Hillbilly2 wrote:

"<span class="ev_code_RED">Usually the ignition switch input overrides the on off switch so you can't drive away with the steps down. Since you don't have power at the on/off switch, the 1 amp fuse that they call for in the diagram is probally blown. Does the steps go down with the ignition off? Or only when the ignition switch is on? If so locate that fuse and your problem should be solved, The only way to stop the steps from operating at all is to install a switch on the 30 amp power feed, but then your step failsafe will not work when that switch is off.</span>
I don't have any failsafe anyway because the step doesn't close when the ignition is turned on. Actually, I don't need to worry about the step not retracting unless I take off with the door open. Right now, the door opens and the steps go out. The door closes and the steps retract. Cut and dried. I know I can wire it so I can just kill the steps and leave them out.
I think I may do that for when we are parked like we are now for a month or so or even less. I could leave it alone when we travel so I don't have a dreadful step &lt;smile&gt;.

I also think I could just make sure the switch is supplied with current and see if that does the trick. Right now it's dead as a doorknob.

BTW,what kine uv a hillbilly are ye anyhow?

Thanks,

Jim (Transplanted Hillbilly from Ky)
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Old 06-12-2008, 07:32 PM   #5
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Jim, give us the part number off your controller under the step.
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Old 06-13-2008, 09:09 AM   #6
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The embossed numbers on the control box cover is #909513.

Serial number of the steps is #187688.

Series #32

I have it unplugged right now.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim
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Old 06-13-2008, 01:01 PM   #7
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BTW,what kine uv a hillbilly are ye anyhow?

Thanks,

Jim (Transplanted Hillbilly from Ky)[/QUOTE]
Born and raised in the North Georgia Mountains.
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Old 06-13-2008, 01:11 PM   #8
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I think the loss of power to the switch is the problem, It's probally designed to "fail closed", in other words power "ON" holds the step open once it has extended, even though the switch says "OFF" (normally closed contact) If that is the correct wiring diagram for that unit, you could temporary power from the porch light switch hot (If its like mine) to see if this is the problem. I think that this is the reason that it acts this way.
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Old 06-13-2008, 01:51 PM   #9
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Hillbilly2 wrote:<span class="ev_code_RED">I think the loss of power to the switch is the problem, It's probally designed to "fail closed", in other words power "ON" holds the step open once it has extended, even though the switch says "OFF" (normally closed contact) If that is the correct wiring diagram for that unit, you could temporary power from the porch light switch hot (If its like mine) to see if this is the problem. I think that this is the reason that it acts this way.</span>
Methinks the same thing, although when I called Kwikee Tech Supp he said the unit is looking for "juice" from the white wire from the switch for the steps to work...period. If that is the case, something's awry, because they do work and that white wire isn't hot!

My wife's out shopping and I had her pick me up
a tester. I didn't bring one with me. So, I'm gonna find out "what's hot and what's now" &lt;grin&gt;.

I'll check in later.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,

Jim
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Old 06-14-2008, 01:31 AM   #10
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Jim, the statement that the white wire must have power for the step to work is not entirely true. The red wire, is the main power wire feeding the controller and the white wire can deactivate the operation as long as the yellow wire does not have power. Check to be sure the fuse for the switch is good and that you do not have power on the yellow wire. If you do the yellow wire is either not wired to an "Ignition key position" source or you have a stuck ignition relay feeding the steps. It thinks the key is on. Let us know what you find. Thanks
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Old 06-14-2008, 08:27 AM   #11
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<span class="ev_code_RED">Jim, the statement that the white wire must have power for the step to work is not entirely true. The red wire, is the main power wire feeding the controller and the white wire can deactivate the operation as long as the yellow wire does not have power. Check to be sure the fuse for the switch is good and that you do not have power on the yellow wire. If you do the yellow wire is either not wired to an "Ignition key position" source or you have a stuck ignition relay feeding the steps. It thinks the key is on. Let us know what you find. Thanks</span>

I didn't understand that either, but that's what tech support told me. So that takes my understanding of it back to square one: What is the purpose of the white wire from the switch?
Power is supplied to the switch "and" the controller from the "same" wire (the switch wire has an additional fuse). So then, what, exactly, does the switch send to or deprive from the controller? I'm just trying to wrap my mind around that so the whole thing will make more sense. I'll follow your instructions and I appreciate your help, but I don't yet have a "completed circuit in my mind" &lt;smile&gt;.

I'll get back on what I find out.

Regards,

Jim
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Old 06-14-2008, 10:51 AM   #12
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<span class="ev_code_RED">INVESTIGATIVE REPORT</span>
At the switch, the hot wire is "green", not red. I could not "ground" the green with it's twin wiire (white), but could ground it using the grounds on other switches as well as on metal on the side of the doorway.

<span class="ev_code_RED">DOWN AT THE CONTROL PANEL</span>

When the switch is turned on(?) all the wires going coming out of the plug is "hot". With the switch off(?), the white wire is not hot.

The yellow wire is paired with the brown wire and both are hot. However, "after" the plug in and going into the control panel, the brown wire is not "hot", but the yellow is still hot.

<span class="ev_code_RED">HONORABLE MENTION</span>

After plugging it in (down at the control panel-harness to control panel) the steps worked like always and the switch had "zero" effect. However, the unit was making a some sort of weird squeaking/growling noise, intermittently.
At this point I turned on the ignition, tried the door switch and nothing changed. The motor
was hot, also. I unplugged it (down there) while and checked all the wires with a tester (the results posted above). I then plugged it back in and it operated like always (switch has no effect) but the weird noise did go away....until I operated it again.
So, it appears that I "must" install a workaround so the noise will go away. It seems like maybe a relay is turning on for a second, then off, and then back on. As I said, it is in some sort of cadence.

Being able to cut off "all" the power to the steps seems to be a temporary answer. Maybe install an on/off switch in the main power line.

Other than that, I have no solution.

What about it?

Thanks,

Jim
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Old 06-15-2008, 03:49 AM   #13
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It soundsd like you need to install the wiring to the steps correctly. You could also have a bad step controller as it should shut down once it has reached full extended and retracted positions. Good luck and keep us posted.
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