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Old 06-16-2010, 12:59 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
While it likely will not shorten the life of the fridge, its a huge waste of electricity. Why leave something turned on that you are not using. Such a waste.
I hope you unplug your tv, computer, cordless phones, answering machine, etc when not using then. Not just turn off, unplug. Its called phantom usage and any one is probably as much as what the rv refer uses.

Now back to the op question, as long as the unit is level its on...pulling one amp.
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Old 06-16-2010, 05:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elkhartjim View Post
Now back to the op question, as long as the unit is level its on...pulling one amp.
1 amp?

Somehow, I doubt that - somewhere closer to 5 amps, depending upon exact fridge model seems far more likely!

From an online source:

2 RV Guy's

Before You Blow Your Breaker



Quote:


Take a minute and see how many amps you could be using in your RVs 30 or 50 amp electrical system. It is surprising how fast the amps add up which causes your breaker or the RV park's breaker to "trip". Knowing the amps of all the electrical appliances in your RV can help you manage electrical use and prevent the inconvenience of "My electricity went out!". This list is the typical appliance used and the average amps required to operate them:
  • Air Conditioner 15-17 amps (multiply this by the number of AC units)
  • Refrigerator 5.7 amps
  • Electric Water Heater 12.5 amps
  • Microwave Oven 12.8 amps
  • Electric Coffee Pot 9 amps
  • Toaster 10 amps
  • Hair Dryer 10-12 amps
  • TV 2 amps
  • Dirt Devil Hand Vacuum 2 amps
  • Electric Fry Pan 10 amps
  • Iron 10 amps
  • Food Processor 6 amps
  • Crock Pot 1.5 amps
  • Heating Pad 0.5 amps
  • 1,100 Watt Heater 10 amps
  • Laptop computer 2-3 amps
1 amp at 120 volts AC = 120 watts
5 amps at 120 volts = 600 watts

Even at a rounded off 500 watts, and a 24 hour day, = 12 KWHRS per day at full draw, perhaps only 8 KW if we allow for cycling - and at, say 8 cents per KWHR, = a bit over $19 for a 30 day month!
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Old 06-16-2010, 08:52 PM   #17
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Quite puzzled over the amperage draw you had listed for refrigerators. I did not read all the previous posts in this thread but if you are speaking of a standard LPG / 120VAC RV unit, I think the numbers are exceedingly high. While my Magnum control system agrees with every other single appliance figure your list holds, it certainly does not agree with the single listing for a refrigerator. My unit generally only shows about a 1 amp draw .... UNLESS the refrigerator on AC is only running on occasion and not most of the time .... in which case I simply may have been missing the increase in amperage draw when it comes on. Even in this case, it must be coming on so infrequently that the average draw over 24 hours is still pretty minimal.
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Old 06-16-2010, 10:32 PM   #18
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confusion rules.

An rv fridge, on AC Power, draws about 5.7 amps os 115v ac.

On gas, it uses a little propane, and about an amp of 12v.

The control circuits are 12 volt. Only the auxiliary heaters are 115.
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:14 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimM68 View Post
confusion rules.

An rv fridge, on AC Power, draws about 5.7 amps os 115v ac.

On gas, it uses a little propane, and about an amp of 12v.

The control circuits are 12 volt. Only the auxiliary heaters are 115.
As I read it, this thread according to the title and most responding posts, relates to leaving the refrigeraton on while the MH is on shore power, IE, "plugged in", and running on AC power.

YUP, confusion reigns!
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Old 06-17-2010, 06:40 AM   #20
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Well folks I started it and I'm now I'm going to ask that we get back to the original posters question. We (I) hijacked his thread and that ain't right.

Thanks...
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Old 06-17-2010, 07:25 AM   #21
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Back on topic.
I leave mine on if we are going out again in a couple of weeks. That way I do not have to completely unload it between trips. If I am not planning to go out for a month or more I shut it down prop open the doors and if there was any frost build up I dry the inside of the freezer after it melts. My MH stays plugged in 24/7 when resting in the back yard.
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Old 06-17-2010, 07:29 AM   #22
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I leave mine off even though the RV is pluged in, but I do turn it on (AC) 24 hours B-4 leaving, and while driving leave it on DC, and parked at a rest area or with out being hooked up to AC, I put it on the propane, I didn't get any info on the fridge and figure with the 3 way hook, that this is the way it should be runned, as my old rv, was just propane and AC hook up. I am doing this right?? arn't I ?
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Old 06-17-2010, 09:46 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Elkhartjim View Post
I hope you unplug your tv, computer, cordless phones, answering machine, etc when not using then. Not just turn off, unplug. Its called phantom usage and any one is probably as much as what the rv refer uses.

Now back to the op question, as long as the unit is level its on...pulling one amp.
Keep alive memory power for any of those devices is so small as to be negligable. The refer uses 120 to 150 watts nearly continuously depending on size and outdoor temperature. Approx 100 kwh per month. Far from the tenths of a kwh all of those items you list use. At current rates in south texas (14cents that amounts to about $14 worth of electric power a month for the fridge.
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:36 AM   #24
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We leave our fridge on 24 7 at the moment as our house fridge stopped working. Little inconvenient running to the back yard when we need milk for the coffee. New fridge coming but we will still leave rv fridge on during the summer months. On short trips we dont bother using propane, just turn fridge off till we get to campground.
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:31 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by JimM68 View Post
confusion rules.

An rv fridge, on AC Power, draws about 5.7 amps os 115v ac.

On gas, it uses a little propane, and about an amp of 12v.

The control circuits are 12 volt. Only the auxiliary heaters are 115.
To clarify my earlier comments and questions on refrigerator draw, apparently you guys are discussing larger refrigerators. Mine is a Norcold two way 10CF unit and the specified draw on 120VAC is 2.5 amps max .... a bit under half what has been specified in the previously posted list, so I must assume that the model of fridge under discussion would be important to power drain considerations.

OK, sorry to snatch this off topic again. I'll go back into the woodwork for good.
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:50 AM   #26
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Well folks I started it and I'm now I'm going to ask that we get back to the original posters question. We (I) hijacked his thread and that ain't right.

Thanks...
YUP - true enough - but sometimes the APPROPRIATE side issue is worth inclusion - as in this case perhaps.

Obviously, a fair number of other RVers are facing the same question and issues related to RV refrigerators, and the best way to manage their use - that may involve lengthening their lifespan, or merely keeping them cold for instant use on a spur of the moment trip.

Problem is, all RV refrigerators are not "created equal" as to operating characteristics and energy consumption - the "plan" that fits RVer "A", may well be completely different for RVer "B" who has a different brand and year of refrigerator.

Case in point - the older Norcold in our '88 Winnie specifically recommends that initial cool-down should be done on LP, because the AC element operates at substantially lower efficiency (current draw), and will take MUCH longer to pull fridge temps down to a usable level. Thus, it is designed specifically as a MAINTENANCE level mode. Similarly, the 12 volt element (ours is a 3-way model) is even further limited, and recommended only for limited maintenance cooling in situations where use of LP is illegal or unavailable.

I would guess that the AC draw on our Norcold is probably down in the 2-3 amp range - but for me to make across-the-board recommendations on how OTHERS should plan to operate THEIR totally DIFFERENT brand/model/year refrigerator, may be entirely WRONG!

Most all devices that use electricity for power, will have a tag or label that clearly displays actual energy consumption, usually in amps, or perhaps watts - and THAT is the rating that each RVer needs to use to determine the best plan for THEIR specific situation!
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Old 06-17-2010, 03:28 PM   #27
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Old 06-17-2010, 03:47 PM   #28
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I agree with you about other rv'ers being concerned about the best way to manage their refrigerator, if you decide to start a new thread on the subject I'll be glad to participate.
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