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Old 04-08-2012, 06:46 PM   #15
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That is correct. They come with a variety of adapters none of which have any resistors in them. I assumed (there's the problem) that the resistors were in the assembly that is covered with an adhesive backing. When it melted off, there were no resistors there. I took the backing off of one that was not used and ......... yup, no resistors. Too bad it didn't work. I have built lights using LED's before and (as shown above) there are formulas for figuring out how much resistance is needed. Not knowing what these lights really are makes that a problem.

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Old 04-08-2012, 07:48 PM   #16
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The ones I bought did not have any adhesive and did have a resistor but looked very similar. Have you made a comment/report on Ebay?

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Old 04-09-2012, 04:47 AM   #17
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I have contacted the manufacturer. They asked what voltage I was using. I replied 12v. DC and that is where it stands now.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:57 AM   #18
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Charlie - we're on the road with ours. After reading your warning, I thought I would check on mine to see what they are doing. After running them for an entire evening (4-5 hours?), they are definitely warm, but not so hot they have gotten to the point you are describing. The fact they were even that warm in itself was quite a surprise. I thought one of the attractions to running LEDs was that they ran cool? By way of explanation, my results vs. yours, the fixture I'm using might be different than yours? I think it might be acting as a heatsink as the metal plate was about the same temp as the board.

Regarding resistors, I thought those were used only to allow a circuit to detect the LED, because of the big difference in amp. draw? Or supply enough load to the turn signal flasher to let it function?
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:53 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by CharlieTwo View Post
I have contacted the manufacturer. They asked what voltage I was using. I replied 12v. DC and that is where it stands now.
your lights are likely operating on 13.5-14 volts powered from your converter or alternator, thus the need for a resistor.
i installed a led fluorescent light replacement kit # jc-42-fl from jirah over 2 years ago. i run it about 18 hours a day. it does not state that it has a resistor, but it has a bridge rectifier to correct for polarity.
in response to your post, i just now inspected the light for heat damage. there is no evidence of heat or damage. it is running cool. my kit is ''designed for 12v systems'' which imho normally operate on higher voltage than 12v.
my led is 6400k cool white. i would rather it be warm white, 4500k.
jirah led lamp kits are rather expensive but in my experience they work well.
the package does not state where my kit was manufactured.
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:41 PM   #20
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I have the 36 led panel from the same vendor and they melted the foam adhesive on the 4 panels I got.
I'm gonna mount them with high temp RTV and keep an close eye on them..
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:12 PM   #21
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Having once worked for a giant semiconductor company I learned some simple rules about LEDs.

Too much voltage turns a LED into a NED, Noise Emitting Diode, and then to DED, Darkenss Emitting Diode.

Too much current turns a LED into HED, Heat Emitting Diode and the transition to DED may take longer.

Normally LEDs are run at their full power rating but switched on and off based upon their duty cycle. That's a fancy way of saying how long you can leave it on before it becomes a DED or HED.

But seriously folks, that's probably why the pre made bulbs are so expensive and 'raw' LEDs are so cheap. They either contain a resistor (not the best solution because resistance = heat) or a chip that turns it on/off at at rate high enough that we don't perceive it as flashing. It sounds like some got LEDs with integrated resistors/chips and some didn't.

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