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Old 08-10-2013, 01:51 PM   #15
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I did ten of twelve of my 2x18" bulb fixtures for $6.00 each (fixture) using DFC (direct from China) parts. I researched lumens, watts, and most important color temperature of the light and then waited three weeks for parts to arrive. Am very happy with the results. Then proceeded to change out all incandescents which are not used as often.

Keep in mine that the big payback is less generator time, at the aforementioned $4.00/gal, not to mention the noise, for those of us who dry camp/boondock it adds up. For us the heat is not that big a deal, we like places that cool down at night anyway and we don't use lights during the day very ofter.

YMMV, do your own research!

As for jumping off the bridge, maybe, if I had a chance to research the bridge and what was under it! And if my friends are doing it, it must be fun!

OT: The bridge question always reminds me of the Smothers Brothers skit where the smarter one ask the slower one that same question! His answer, "Well... not again!"
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:27 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patmsp View Post
My puck lights are on a rheostat. When you replaced your puck lights did your rheostat still work as a dimmer?
Mine to anyone done the LEDs to them?
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:39 AM   #17
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My puck lights are on a rheostat. When you replaced your puck lights did your rheostat still work as a dimmer?
On superbrightleds website is says which ones are. Just found it myself.
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:59 AM   #18
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OT: The bridge question always reminds me of the Smothers Brothers skit where the smarter one ask the slower one that same question! His answer, "Well... not again!"
hdossett
....I like that!

I converted one florescent fixture to LED and I will not be doing another...
you could say I'm like Tom Smothers.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:09 PM   #19
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Doing an LED upgrade requires doing your homework and research. Many folks just buy the cheap (or not so cheap) LED replacement bulbs based on the fact it's a direct replacement for their current incandescent bulbs and are in fact very underwhelmed. Color, lumens and light pattern all play a role and are all directly related to the type of LED purchased. There are 3mm, 5mm, 2 chip, 4 chip 45 & 90 degree LEDs, 3528's, 5050's and CREE LEDs! So you see it's not exactly a "hey let's replace with LEDs!" proposition.


I just replaced all of the bulbs in my incandescent 12v pancake fixtures, see this post here: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f59/mods-to-rvs-110686-40.html#post1664050


I wanted warm white and the same lumens (or more) as the incandescent bulbs. Got that and more with 48 3528 LED panels in warm white. Was it a direct swap, nope. required the takedown of each fixture, T-taps and a bit of soldering but the results are awesome. As a result I can have plenty of eye pleasing light dry camping without worring about draining the house batts. pics attached

I soon will be doing the annoying fluorescents on the ceiling and will more than likely use LED strips in 3528 LEDs becuase they are powerfull enough to illuminate very nicely withought being overly bright like the 5050s. The plan is to gut to housing of all the ballast and stuff and install replacement three-way switches that allow 2 or 4 strands to light. I'm even playing with remote control that's dimmable, we'll see.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:18 PM   #20
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Hey Gary,
Extra nice job on that changeover for the fluorescents. As you've most likely read, I've done about 95% of the lights inside our coach and, I've changed ALL the compartment lights on the outside. The ones you mentioned that you want to find a replacement bulb for, the "Puck" lights, those were the first ones I changed out. I used a "wafer" style, G-4 based, 6 LED bub for each of those puck lights. I first ordered two of them in "cool white" and tried them out. The Dear wife put the kibosh on that, she "ORDERED" me to get them in warm white, she said they're more like the original lights and not like HOSPITAL lights.

I said fine. So, I put the "HOSPITAL" lights in the bedroom, over the bed and, the rest came in as Warm white. Waaaaay cooler and just as bright as the HALOGENS and waaaaaay less juice too. The site I use is:

www.superbrightleds.com It's a great site, they've got all the LEDs you'll ever need. In all colors, lumens and CCT (Color Core temp). They're very good at explaining to you what you need for certain applications. Anyway, good luck. Those look great.
Scott
Scott,

Question on the details. Looks like the prongs for the G4 wafer style 6 LED unit you used comes out the side of the wafer. Did you bend the prongs 90 degrees to plug in so the LED's shine down?

Gary - nice job, and thanks for the post.
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:29 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by patmsp View Post
My puck lights are on a rheostat. When you replaced your puck lights did your rheostat still work as a dimmer?
I upgraded to some of these LEDs and they all are working fine on a dimmer.

G4-18 LED, 260 Lumens, Warm White - RV-LED.com

I'm running a mix of sizes: some are the 18 LED style, some are the 10 LED style.
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:31 PM   #22
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Looks like the prongs for the G4 wafer style 6 LED unit you used comes out the side of the wafer. Did you bend the prongs 90 degrees to plug in so the LED's shine down?
Some vendors for LEDs sell two styles of the wafers - back pin style and side pin style.

Side pin style can really only be used in a side pin fixture. Bending the pins may break them off the circuit board. It also causes the LED board to be offset from the center of the light fixture in relation to the socket, so it may not even fit.
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:23 PM   #23
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Some vendors for LEDs sell two styles of the wafers - back pin style and side pin style.

Side pin style can really only be used in a side pin fixture. Bending the pins may break them off the circuit board. It also causes the LED board to be offset from the center of the light fixture in relation to the socket, so it may not even fit.
BillandCarol,

Thanks for the info!
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:06 PM   #24
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These are the pin type LED's I ordered to replace the little two pin halogen 10 Watt bulbs in my puck lights. They are going to be tight in the little light assembly but these folks say they will fit in any space the 10 Watt two pin halogen bulb fits.

Retrofit LED to replace G4 Halogen
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Old 08-22-2013, 07:49 PM   #25
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I just received and installed a bunch of LED light bulbs in the coach to replace the incandescent bulbs. I love them!

Be sure to order WARM white, not daylight bulbs (too blue).

So far I'm very happy. Most of the bulbs are brighter, similar in color and intensity.

I have a few more to go, but so far so good (but expensive).
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:45 PM   #26
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Scott,

Question on the details. Looks like the prongs for the G4 wafer style 6 LED unit you used comes out the side of the wafer. Did you bend the prongs 90 degrees to plug in so the LED's shine down?

Gary - nice job, and thanks for the post.
Pusherman,
I'm incredibly sorry for not answering your question here in a timely manor. I completely forgot about this section of the forums. Now, as to your question, no, I did not bend the pins to be able to insert them into the puck lights. I did a ton of research (as I always do with change) and, my calculations worked out just fine as to the fit of the wafer style I used in those pucks. That's one of the very nice things about www.superbrightleds.com , they're very informative about all their products and, in many cases, how and when to use them. Of all the LED replacement bulbs I've installed, the only one I've not been happy with the results on is, the one over the "One place" panel. The new bulb works but, it's just not bright enough for me in that fixture.

So, again, the 6 SMD-LED wafer units fit right in without issues.
Scott
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:26 PM   #27
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Power & Heat

What I haven't seen any of the good folk posting in this thread talk about is voltage regulation.

A LED rated at 12v is meant to run at 12v, not 13.4 and up typically found in RV's.

LEDs have a strange property. When they are run at higher than their rated voltage they draw much more current, as they draw more current they get hot, and the heat makes them draw even more current. It's called thermal runaway and will eventually turn a LED into a DED (Darkness Emitting Diode). Even a little heat shortens their lifespan by an alarming percentage.

A LED running at or below it's rated voltage will not generate much heat.

When I first did my conversion the fixtures got too hot to touch! I solved the problem by including a DC to DC (Buck) converter/voltage regulator in each fixture. I adjusted them down to around 11v. I recently left one on for 2 days and when I discovered it the fixture was barely warm.

So my advice is to either buy LEDs rated at 14v, or those having internal regulators, or include a regulator. Regulators can be found on eBay for not much money. Or you can make your own from a bag-o-parts for about a buck each.

Dimmers: reducing the power to LEDs only works up to a point. Voltage lower that the design minimum makes them get 'weird', to use a technical term. The proper way to dim LEDs is with a PWM dimmer. Pulse Width Modulation means that the voltage is on 100%, but it's only on part of the time. Changing the percentage of 'on' and we see it as a change in light.

A circuit designed for incandescent lights would probably not be PWM.

I worked in The semiconductor industry for 10 years before going into medical devices and diagnostics.
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:23 AM   #28
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Muddypaws,
Well Sir, don't know what to tell ya here. I converted about 90% of the total interior lights in our coach (with the exception of the center isle fluorescents) and, 100% of the compartment lights inside all the bays. And, as I've told many folks, I've had some of those bulbs on for hours at a time, including the bay ones, and, they've only begun to get luke warm. And much of the time, I was either plugged in at home or, in an RV park where we were hooked up to shore power.

Now, I check the battery (house) voltage on a quite often basis just to keep tabs on it and, it's always in the 13.1-13.3 range for them. I was always lead to believe that the operating range of voltage for commercially available LED replacement bulbs is pretty wide, somewhere in the vicinity of 4-14 VDC. But, I could be way off there.

So, at present, I've yet to burn out any of the replacement ones I've installed. I've installed warm white, cool white, tower, wafer, and more and again, they all barely get warm even after quite some time of remaining in the ON position.
Scott
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