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Old 05-03-2010, 10:18 AM   #1
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leveling blocks

I have decided to carry two bags ( 16 ) of leveling blocks due to various problems with my auto leveling system. I hope not to need them . If I do , how do you calculate how many to use? (they're 1" each ). For instance if your 3 degrees off level and so on.

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Old 05-03-2010, 10:39 AM   #2
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I just eyeball it and get close enough.
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Old 05-03-2010, 11:08 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clifftall View Post
I have decided to carry two bags ( 16 ) of leveling blocks due to various problems with my auto leveling system. I hope not to need them . If I do , how do you calculate how many to use? (they're 1" each ). For instance if your 3 degrees off level and so on.

Thanks

Cliff
Oh ye of little faith.

I know its hard to imagine but on a trip last year when our Power Gear jacks failed, I borrowed two bags of leveling blocks and never needed more than three high. It was pretty easy to eyeball. Something else to remember Cliff, I would build a ramp of one block then two blocks then three. If not, I found it the devil to drive up on more than two.

I really hope you end up getting to sell those blocks (unused) in a garage sale some day.
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Old 05-03-2010, 12:49 PM   #4
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I do the same as Jim and Campingman, the old eyeball method. I then use my jacks. Besides, if it is a little off, you will probably never notice it and it won't affect your coach's systems anyway.
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Old 05-04-2010, 04:01 PM   #5
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I do the same as Jim and Campingman, the old eyeball method. I then use my jacks. Besides, if it is a little off, you will probably never notice it and it won't affect your coach's systems anyway.
I can lay in bed and tell you if the coach is an 1" off. It's a curse.
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Old 05-04-2010, 04:18 PM   #6
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I can lay in bed and tell you if the coach is an 1" off. It's a curse.
Too much info, Way Too Much.
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Old 05-04-2010, 06:53 PM   #7
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Too much info, Way Too Much.
Cliff, he's referring to the coach being level.
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Old 05-04-2010, 10:54 PM   #8
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Just be careful. Most tire manufactures want the entire footprint of the tire supported. Those hexagonal leveling blocks do not support the entire footprint. They do have some flat ones that do. I have wood 2x10's with 5/8" plywood on top to keep from splitting. (Plywood is flexible) I use the hexagonal blocks to ramp up on to a wooden form if I have to. I had the wood with my old 5'er and just carried it over to the MH. I used them when a jack went out on me.

Good luck.
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Old 05-08-2010, 01:29 AM   #9
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I bought a 2"x10'x10' board and cut it into leveling blocks. Cost me under $10 and they work like a charm. Angle cut the ends so when I stack them they are not so blunt.
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Old 05-08-2010, 05:53 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elkhartjim View Post
Oh ye of little faith.

I know its hard to imagine but on a trip last year when our Power Gear jacks failed, I borrowed two bags of leveling blocks and never needed more than three high. It was pretty easy to eyeball. Something else to remember Cliff, I would build a ramp of one block then two blocks then three. If not, I found it the devil to drive up on more than two.

I really hope you end up getting to sell those blocks (unused) in a garage sale some day.
If the jacks are power gear . you will need them.
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:29 PM   #11
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Just use your calibrated eye, it will work better than your power gear jacks. That what I do
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Old 05-12-2010, 10:19 PM   #12
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Just be careful. Most tire manufactures want the entire footprint of the tire supported. Those hexagonal leveling blocks do not support the entire footprint. They do have some flat ones that do. I have wood 2x10's with 5/8" plywood on top to keep from splitting. (Plywood is flexible) I use the hexagonal blocks to ramp up on to a wooden form if I have to. I had the wood with my old 5'er and just carried it over to the MH. I used them when a jack went out on me.

Good luck.
Good advise Wayne. One thing more and I guess you mean this also.
ALWAYS RAMP BOTH TIRES IN BACK. NEVER EVER RAMP JUST ONE TIRE OF TANDEMS . IT WILL GO ''BOOM'' WHEN YOU LEAST EXPECT IT IF YOU DO.
I,like Wayne the Marine, made my own blocks. Marines and Sailors are cheap.....
Seajay the sailor man.
ps. This information is free, If I charge the traditional ten cents I will have to split with Wayne the Marine.
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Old 05-13-2010, 11:39 PM   #13
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When I use them, I use the eyeball method. I also use the smooth toppers on them so that tires rest on a smooth surface. I always use as many under the jacks as I drive up on so that I don't over extend my Jacks. Atwood's can be temperamental.
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Old 11-06-2011, 03:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne M View Post
Just be careful. Most tire manufactures want the entire footprint of the tire supported. Those hexagonal leveling blocks do not support the entire footprint. They do have some flat ones that do. I have wood 2x10's with 5/8" plywood on top to keep from splitting. (Plywood is flexible) I use the hexagonal blocks to ramp up on to a wooden form if I have to. I had the wood with my old 5'er and just carried it over to the MH. I used them when a jack went out on me.

Good luck.
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Originally Posted by Seajay View Post
Good advise Wayne. One thing more and I guess you mean this also.
ALWAYS RAMP BOTH TIRES IN BACK. NEVER EVER RAMP JUST ONE TIRE OF TANDEMS . IT WILL GO ''BOOM'' WHEN YOU LEAST EXPECT IT IF YOU DO.
I,like Wayne the Marine, made my own blocks. Marines and Sailors are cheap.....
Seajay the sailor man.
ps. This information is free, If I charge the traditional ten cents I will have to split with Wayne the Marine.
Speak For yourself
Maybe I should say you couldn't have said that any better !


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