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Old 08-13-2007, 10:51 PM   #1
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We have a 2001 National SeaView 8331 and the last time we came home a few weeks ago I leveled it and the system worked fine. Now we're leaving on a trip on Thursday so I got in it, turned the system on, and retracted the jacks to move the RV closer to the house so she could start loading it and I could install a GE SmartWater filtration system under the kitchen sink (recomend that to anyone, even if you already have a filtration system on your incoming line). The system came on and worked fine to retract the jacks but after pulling the coach over closer to the house I went to lower the jacks and the system would not come on. I have tried turning the ignition on and off several times, restarting the engine, doing it with the generator running, plugged into the A/C, everything but it just wont come on.

When your turning the ignition from off to on both the green (power on) and red (jacks down) lights on the control pannel flash momentarily as the key cycles from one positon to the other, but beyond that there is no sign of life. I didn't do anything unusual, just what I have done since we bought it by the book, er rather video as the coach came with a short DVD instructional video from the makers of the jack system showing how to operate it (but nothing about if it doesn't work).

I've also looked through all the fuse pannels I could find and couldn't find any that looked blown. None of the circut breakers are tripped back in the main breaker box. I have also checked the fluid level in the resivoir and set, released, and re-set the emergency brake plus cycled from park to neutral and back again trying the system in each postion as I know the systems only supposed to operate when the coach is in neutral or park and the emergency brake is set.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm stummped.
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:51 PM   #2
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We have a 2001 National SeaView 8331 and the last time we came home a few weeks ago I leveled it and the system worked fine. Now we're leaving on a trip on Thursday so I got in it, turned the system on, and retracted the jacks to move the RV closer to the house so she could start loading it and I could install a GE SmartWater filtration system under the kitchen sink (recomend that to anyone, even if you already have a filtration system on your incoming line). The system came on and worked fine to retract the jacks but after pulling the coach over closer to the house I went to lower the jacks and the system would not come on. I have tried turning the ignition on and off several times, restarting the engine, doing it with the generator running, plugged into the A/C, everything but it just wont come on.

When your turning the ignition from off to on both the green (power on) and red (jacks down) lights on the control pannel flash momentarily as the key cycles from one positon to the other, but beyond that there is no sign of life. I didn't do anything unusual, just what I have done since we bought it by the book, er rather video as the coach came with a short DVD instructional video from the makers of the jack system showing how to operate it (but nothing about if it doesn't work).

I've also looked through all the fuse pannels I could find and couldn't find any that looked blown. None of the circut breakers are tripped back in the main breaker box. I have also checked the fluid level in the resivoir and set, released, and re-set the emergency brake plus cycled from park to neutral and back again trying the system in each postion as I know the systems only supposed to operate when the coach is in neutral or park and the emergency brake is set.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm stummped.
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:36 AM   #3
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While I don't have an answer to the problem you might get a quicker response if you share a little more technical information like the year and type motor home, name and/or type of jacks. Just a thought. Good Luck.
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Old 08-14-2007, 04:14 AM   #4
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Not knowing the jack details that Bill asked for, consider trying this:

Put all the driver control settings where they need to be for the jacks to work (ex. ignition switch, parking brake, transmission gear selection, engine off/on, etc). Try to turn on the jacks. If they come on, just leave them alone for 10 minutes or so. Do nothing but turn them on. If they do not come on leave all the driver controls in the previously mentioned position for 10 minutes or so.

I have HWH jacks. My grandson (11 years old now) has the responsibility to level the coach and retract the jacks. When he started this task (2 years ago) sometimes he would not follow the process he had been trained on. My HWH jacks are sensitive to followong a specific sequents of events or they will not work. If that happens, I need to do what I suggested above. It gives my jacks "brain" time to reset itself and determine where it is in its' cycle.

After completing the process everything works fine.
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Old 08-14-2007, 06:11 AM   #5
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Make sure your parking brake is fully on. I have had problems in the past when the parking brake did not make the switch. The jack system will not turn on if the PB circuit is not completed
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Old 08-14-2007, 06:42 AM   #6
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I did list the year and type of motor home, I might have forgot to mention the brand of the jacks, I think that's "PowerGear" or something similar.
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Old 08-14-2007, 06:43 AM   #7
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Thanks but no, they wont turn on at all, that's my whole problem. It's sat overnight and it still didn't make any difference.
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Old 08-14-2007, 06:46 AM   #8
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I've tried setting and resetting the parking brake several times, pressing it quite hard a few of them but didn't make any difference. I also tried cycling the shifter through all of the gears stopping in both park and neutral several times trying it in both thinking maybe it was the transmision park/neutral switch, though the coach starts just fine and I kinda think they probably tied into the same sensor used for that to keep you from accidntally trying to start the engine with it in gear.
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Old 08-14-2007, 07:23 PM   #9
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Well, I finally had the time to really get out there and experiment today and noticed that though the Parking Brake Indicator light was on when the engine was not running it was not on when the engine was running even though the brake was still on. It must be on in the other postion because it's a light test mode (most time out after 30 seconds but it apperantly doesn't). I knew that the light being on was (normally, failed to notice the bulk check mode) a good indication that the switch was working and I knew that the wire for the leveling system was just tied into that wire. So after realizing the light was only working in the bulb check postion I got under there and found that if you wiggled the single wire connection that the brake light would come on even when the engine was running and then of course the leveling system would come also come on. Tightend the connector and put it back on and it worked but then quit again later, I released and reset the brake and the second time it worked. I think I'm going to have to get under there with aresol spray electrical contact cleaner and shoot some onto those contacts to clean them good. If that doesn't work I may have to just replace the switch.

All the brake and transmission neutral saftey switches are really doing is completing a circut to ground and after telling someone about it today after fining it he told me that after getting stuck with his jacks down one time in the middle of no where when his transmission park/neutral switch failed with no way to get one for DAYS he decided to instal an emergency overide switch hidden under the dash, a hold-on type switch that springs back off when you releae it. He put it where if his jack system failed due to the brake or transmission switch and he needed to get going he could reach under, hold in on the switch while reaching over with his other hand and hitting the retract all jacks switch and then continue to hold his home-made overide until they were all the way up. The system was still safe because since you had to hold the switch on and it sprang off as soon as you let it go you couldn't drive down the road holding the switch nor could you forget to turn it off. His switch simply had three contacts, one went to ground, and the other two each had a jumper wire to the wires going into the jack system from both the parking brake feed and the transmission park/neutral feed, since none of the three contacts made contact when the switch wasn't being held in the parking brake and park/neutral wires were also not cross-connected, except of course until you held it in and if you were in that kind of postion it doesn't matter. He said the switch took less than 15 minutes to install and two years later proved it's worth when his transmission park/neutral switch went out again and again in a bad location on a Sunday morning with no way to get a replacement until Monday at the earliest.

I'm not certain that's such a bad idea myself... anyone ever setup something like that?
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