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Old 11-12-2011, 10:08 PM   #15
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OK, I was under the impression that ours are hydraulic. I'll check the manual tomorrow. I'm too tired to go back outside and get 'em after packing stuff in the coach all day.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:12 PM   #16
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Having the front wheels off the ground may or may not be a problem. In the 1990's there was a fairly common problem with windshields popping out of their frame, and one of the more common reasons for that was a twisted or drooping front cap when the jacks were raised too high. It because sort of gospel that the front wheels should not be raised off the ground to avoid having this problem. But the basic problem was that the front caps were not designed to be stiff enough, and RV manufacturers took steps to improve that. And the jack manufacturers designed their control systems better to avoid twisting the chassis when leveling. Nowadays, you don't hear of many problems with the front wheels raised like that.

Equalizer, the manufacturer of the leveling system in our coach, says it is perfectly ok to raise all the wheels off the ground with their jacks. But they don't worry about the body or the windshield - they are just saying their jacks are designed to handle that load without shifting or bending, regardless of grade.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:22 PM   #17
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Good to know; thanks Gary.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:23 PM   #18
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Really confused reading all these posts. What diff does it make if the jacks are hydraulic or electric. For that matter, the wheels are attached to the frame, the jacks are attached to the frame. What difference does it make which is supporting the frame??

Just asking'
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:26 PM   #19
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Really confused reading all these posts. What diff does it make if the jacks are hydraulic or electric. For that matter, the wheels are attached to the frame, the jacks are attached to the frame. What difference does it make which is supporting the frame??

Just asking'
Beats me...I'm a goober. I'm just trying not to break anything before our coach is 48 hours old. I'm sure that some jacks are sturdier than others, though.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:48 PM   #20
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I'd be interested to know, too. I sort of look at jacks like stilts, albiet short ones, with feet on them. Supporting even part of a coach on 2 "stilts" doesn't seem as stable as having all the wheels on the ground, no matter how sturdy the stilts are.

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Old 11-12-2011, 11:58 PM   #21
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Ramp to level



Chock to be safe



I now use 2 x 10 instead of 2 x 8. The wider board is easier to center to make sure the entire foot print is on the board. Always, always, use a ground guide, and slow, slow, slow is the way to back onto this configuration. A person could make the boards longer and place a "Stop" board on the back side. I can actually feel the wheels as the rise over each ridge, and DW stands right beside me and I never take my eyes off her directions. So far so good, knock on wood. Use and build at your own risk. I take no responsibility for what you do.
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Old 11-13-2011, 04:41 AM   #22
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HWH is another brand of levelling systems - they're hydraulic or air. Atwoods are electric.

Lori-

On edit, there's a possibility SarahW would have hydraulic jacks. I do remember at the FMA Rally hearing FW was going to go back to hydraulic jacks but I don't know if those have trickled down to the Bounder level yet.
FW went with Power Gear Elec in 07 and 08 . They then went to Hyd. Power Gear , I think.
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:06 PM   #23
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OK, I can verify that the 2012 Bounder has PowerGear Hydraulic levelers.

We resolved the problem today with 2x12's. Now I can find something else to obsess about. Thanks for all the help!
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:56 PM   #24
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Ramp to level

Chock to be safe

I now use 2 x 10 instead of 2 x 8. The wider board is easier to center to make sure the entire foot print is on the board. Always, always, use a ground guide, and slow, slow, slow is the way to back onto this configuration. A person could make the boards longer and place a "Stop" board on the back side. I can actually feel the wheels as the rise over each ridge, and DW stands right beside me and I never take my eyes off her directions. So far so good, knock on wood. Use and build at your own risk. I take no responsibility for what you do.
my first rig I made some ramps like that because there was no leveling jacks. Ironically it takes about the same amount of time for me to level my new coach... just alot less walking.
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:24 PM   #25
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thread hijack time -

When I use ramps to level, I always set them up so that I roll downhill onto them, rather than uphill, as the photo shows. I have no idea if one way is "better" than the other way, but it seems to me that with gravity wanting to pull you downhill it's better to have the ramps set up to oppose gravity, rather than aid it.

Any thoughts here? Who else sets up their ramps like the photo, and who would turn them around? Does it really make a difference?
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:39 PM   #26
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Alan, I can't see what gravity has to do with it after the coach is parked, braked and chocked. In the photo if it were to move it would roll down the ramps. If the ramps were reversed then it would roll off the "drop off" of the stacked ramp. But with the rear wheels chocked it's not going to roll regardless of gravity.
The other thing is we don't know what is behind the MH and if it could be moved backwards to reverse the ramps and roll forward onto them. It looks like the coach is parked withthe front pretty close to the street to me.
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Old 11-13-2011, 11:20 PM   #27
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Alan,
I think that the only prerequisite is how much room do you have in the front or back of the RV sitting in a driveway or yard. In my case the photo shows that I have to back up onto my ramp. That is because i do not have enough room behind the coach to back up, then pull forward onto the ramp. As stated, the front of the coach is very close to the street. There is not much room in either direction. When I do have to back up onto the ramps, the car is parked in front of the tree and I pull forward about 2 feet into the street, place the ramps, then back on to them. With the new 2 x 12's it gives me a little over 8 inches of lift. Had I had a choice I would have preferred driving forward onto the ramps. However, I like the smooth, slow, powerful reverse gear also.

So no, I can't back up any farther and drive onto the ramps. Unless I want to replace the garage doors.

I don't think we have hi-jacked the thread. I was showing a method of leveling that does not require using the jacks. However, at this point I could use 4 x 6 blocks that come still give the RV room to level or stabilize. I would have to calculate the manufacturers recommendation of not using blocks higher than 3 inches - in my RV's case. This is for any settling the air bags and suspension system do so that you can get the blocks out from under the jack pads.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:41 AM   #28
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Buy a 2x10 or 2x8 (The second number is the width of the tire tread plus at least 1"), six feet long. some White glue (Such as Elmers, wood glue if you wish but regular will work too) and 8 wood screws, 2.5 inches long

Cut 1 foot off each end, then cut the remaining 4' section into two 2 foot sections.

Lay a 2' section down, take the 1 foot section, cover one side with glue and lay atop the two foot seciton so one end matches .. thus forming a 2-step "Stair"

Run 4 screws through the top into the bottom

Do the same with the other pair of 2' 1' sections.

Now... Back up all the way (this is easier) then lay one of the "Steps" in front of the front tire so the tire is about to "run up" on the lower step.. Move the MH forward till the tire is on the top step, set the brakes.

Optional, buy 3 more feet and make it 3=steps.

Optional put a "parking stop" (1x1 strip) at the "Back" (thick end) of the top step.

If you wish a bit more "Flexiblity" make the lower step 3" long and the top 18" (in fact this would not be a bad idea.)

1' steps 2 steps each pair you need six feet
18" steps 9 feet (Buy 10)

I recommend you make at least 2 pair

3 steps 1' you need 12 feet
18" 18 feet, Get a 12 and a six (it will work out well)

I have 2 pair of 2 steps, I've been using for about a year and a half.. Eventually (likely next year) I'm going to have to rebuild. I may go 3-step when I rebuild.
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