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Old 02-18-2016, 11:02 AM   #15
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Thank-you 69Stang. I like the 1 gal approach you outlined - I was also concerned about getting to the end and not have enough left. Plus, it will be easier to haul up on the roof. About 3 hours (after prep/masking) is good to know. I'll plan for 5 hrs to be safe.

Incase anyone is interested, Liquid Roof has a shelf life of 5 years (I called them last year) so if you procrastinate like I do you have some wiggle time.
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Old 02-18-2016, 02:03 PM   #16
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Yes, it self leveled and remained pliable. My RV has been kept outside its entire life. The Dicor on mine is a little coarse/cracked on top. The EternaCaulk self leveled out much smoother. I like it and will use it again if needed.

Good info in this post - thanks to all for the contributions.

I was thinking about mixing up 1 gal of Liquid Roof to do the edges and around the roof penetrations. Then, after this sets (maybe even the next day), mix up the rest for rolling on the flat part of the roof.

Is this a good idea or not??
From what I understand it is not the best way. The idea is that by doing it in one go you wind up with a single continuous sheet without seams. My roof extends over the sides and down about five inches. I went all around the outsides with a ladder and a brush and did those parts, letting it run up onto the top an inch or two then got up on the roof and did it from one end to the other. The part I did on the sides was probably dry when I did the top and it is fine so you'd probably be OK. Ideally we would have a second person on a ladder doing the sides areas while we did the top.
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Old 02-18-2016, 02:10 PM   #17
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Thank-you 69Stang. I like the 1 gal approach you outlined - I was also concerned about getting to the end and not have enough left. Plus, it will be easier to haul up on the roof. About 3 hours (after prep/masking) is good to know. I'll plan for 5 hrs to be safe.

Incase anyone is interested, Liquid Roof has a shelf life of 5 years (I called them last year) so if you procrastinate like I do you have some wiggle time.
I also like the one gallon and mark the roof method and will do just that. I have a 5 gallon pail and a 1 gallon one so I'll probably divide into 6 and do the sides and cutting in on each section before doing the flat parts. So much good information being passed along here. Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2016, 06:43 PM   #18
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Thank you very much for this answer. I checked the Q&A section on the website and it says "Great question yes it can you do need to lightly sand the eternabond first and put a layer of contact cement on it and let the contact cement dry first before applying the liquid epdm" This is a great help. Thanks.
Great information. For me it's just about a week to late

I had to do a little patching on my roof where branch fell out of a tree and poked a hole in the EPDM. I used EnternaBond tape over the hole, then used the Liquid EPDM Primer, followed by a coat of Liquid EPDM about 36 hours later (the primer is very slow to tac). So far it appears that the Liquid EPDM is not really bonding to the EternaBond tape so well, and that even using their primer. I'll check in a day or two and see if it's any better after curing.

That was just a patch to get us through our next trip, I'll have to do a full repair later in the spring, so I'll be watching this thread closely.

Keep the updates coming.
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Old 02-19-2016, 06:25 PM   #19
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Hi
Been a long day. Got a lot done. Only have a few minutes before dinner gets delivered.
First is a question: Does anybody know where the "Freeze Detector goes in a newer Dometic AC? I found one hanging down on a wire after I lifted and blocked the AV to clean the old roof under it. It has a clip to hold it onto a round pipe and I assume it goes up inside the coil area. Just not sure where.

Here is what was under the ladder mounts at the top.





One of them had not leaked and was only loose because the big screw that holds the fitting to the tubing came loose. I have to use loctite on those after this. The screws were still solid into the wood.
The other had leaked quite a bit. It was an infested gooey mess but it had not gotten to the wood much. The water had flowed between the layers which has both come loose from the wood. It then went down the back and caused the window leak in the back. I figured that was the case. I epoxied the area and the layers with an epoxy glue additive and thickener from West Marine. Love their stuff. Here are the materials.





I put the thickened epoxy glue between the layers and also the wood. I covered the exposed wood and then put bricks on the rubber roof parts where I glued the layers. Here it is an hour later.



I covered it with Eternabond after an hour. The Eternabond sticks immediately and does not come loose when I clean the area with alcohol first.

I removed the old TV antenna. I had suspected it was leaking and had no use for it anyway. I'll save it in case the next owner needs it.



I was right about the leak but luckily it was between layers for the most part and no rot. I put an electrical plate on the ceiling and shot Dap Medium Expanding Foam into the holes. Then I cut off the excess on the top and used a bit of vinyl siding and some caulk to cover the hole. Eternabond completed the job. Not as pretty as I might have liked but waterproof for certain. The brick is holding the vinyl flat until the caulk sets.



I raised the AC with some blocks to clean under the edges and get a look at the old roof under it. The old roof is great. I cleaned it up and reinstalled it. I will just brush the roof under it as far as a brush will allow. I didn't want to leave it raised because a s. Florida rain could make a real mess of the inside of the coach.



Dinner is here. I.ll post more in the AM.
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Old 02-19-2016, 09:22 PM   #20
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If you use the liquid rubber product use the primer as it makes it stick well.

Do NOT put eternabond down first as it covers the cracks...more to come.

Do clean roof well, we used an old floor polisher and high pressure air.

Next the primer is a 2 part epoxy and can fill gaps and cracks so a brush can be used to scrub the primer into bad spots.

They sell a repair fabric that can be added and it helps.

It needs to be tacky so wait a day or 3 then apply the rubber.

If yiu have the 6 gallon batch mix only the seperate 1 gallon and use it to get the end caps and all of the corners and jacks.

Yiu apply over the top of any and all brackets and other mounted things so the whole roof will be one.

Then mix the 5 gallon and apply with a roller.

Caution here as all of the stuff is water cleanup but wear old clothes.

Gloves okay for primer but NOT for top coat as the primer needs to be tacky and if you rest your hand on primer spot the glove will stay there.

Bare hands then wash with soap and water and you will be fine.

Leather garden gloves if new and dirt free work too.

We created a thread for a Southwind we did last fall.
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Old 02-20-2016, 07:37 AM   #21
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If you use the liquid rubber product use the primer as it makes it stick well.

Do NOT put eternabond down first as it covers the cracks...more to come.

Do clean roof well, we used an old floor polisher and high pressure air.

Next the primer is a 2 part epoxy and can fill gaps and cracks so a brush can be used to scrub the primer into bad spots.

They sell a repair fabric that can be added and it helps.

It needs to be tacky so wait a day or 3 then apply the rubber.

If yiu have the 6 gallon batch mix only the seperate 1 gallon and use it to get the end caps and all of the corners and jacks.

Yiu apply over the top of any and all brackets and other mounted things so the whole roof will be one.

Then mix the 5 gallon and apply with a roller.

Caution here as all of the stuff is water cleanup but wear old clothes.

Gloves okay for primer but NOT for top coat as the primer needs to be tacky and if you rest your hand on primer spot the glove will stay there.

Bare hands then wash with soap and water and you will be fine.

Leather garden gloves if new and dirt free work too.

We created a thread for a Southwind we did last fall.
Thanks. I will read that this morning. I am doing it this morning. Pretty much the my choice because I can get a helper and it may give us 2 days before rain. I have done this before and I do see where omissions can effect the coating. I agree abut the cleaning and have already pressure washed with Simple green and a pressure rinse. Also scrubbed with a brush where needed. Too late for the primer but I will try it next time. I think that would be a good thing. The Eternabond is on already. Too late there. I will do the one gallon first. I'll go over all the brackets.
Thanks and wish me luck!
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Old 02-20-2016, 07:53 AM   #22
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Hi
Moving things up a day. Because I can get a helper this afternoon and because I will get two cool dry dry days for it to set I will coat the roof today. That is prime time here in South FL.
Yesterday I also ran a thin bead of Dicor wherever there were cracks. Thinking about it it might have been better to let the roof flow into them like TQ60 said but too late now. It stuck well last time. Here is what it looks like now.


I need to run to the ACE for two more things. Then sand one more bit of Eternabond. Scrub where the Masking tape goes. mask the side top joints and the front and back. Measure off a space for each gallon's worth. and get to work.
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:24 AM   #23
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Hi
Five years or more ago we redid our roof with the original Liquid Rubber

The Liquid rubber:
It has held up well. There are places where it developed a heavy texture but it did not leak.
Kahoona
I know about, (and use), Eternabond tape.

...but what the heck is "the original Liquid Rubber"?

Wondering

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Old 02-20-2016, 08:37 AM   #24
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Get some acetone and wipe it down with that.

There is not enough water in the ocean to rinse off every bit of soap residue.

Buy a gallon and purple gloves.

Good brush and plenty on rags.

Pour some on and scrub fast then wipe off loose stuff.

It will evaporate fast.

The acetone will cut anything that the liquid rubber won't like and you will get a better bond.

If working from sides re coat spots that may need more help.
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Old 02-20-2016, 06:26 PM   #25
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Kahoona
I know about, (and use), Eternabond tape.

...but what the heck is "the original Liquid Rubber"?

Wondering

Mel
'96 Safari
Some years ago there weren't rubber roof repair options other than replacing the entire membrane with another one. More than I could do. Then I steered reading about this stuff that was developed for commercial roofing that could be used on RV's. There was only one company. That is the one a used. I don't remember which one it was. There are a few of them now. I an be confusing sometimes. I am confused sometimes.
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Old 02-20-2016, 06:30 PM   #26
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Just finished in the dark. Hope it looks OK. My help was only able to help for part of the day so I did much of it myself. Long day. Will post tomorrow.
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Old 02-21-2016, 03:41 PM   #27
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Hi
Just finished my report on the completed roof project. It took the better part of an hour. I had been logged in and had the keep me logged in box checked. When I clicked Post Reply I got a message that I needed to click refresh then log in. That wiped out the post. Oh well.

I completed the roof in the dark and it caused a couple of minor problems but overall all went well. My helper couldn't stay for the entire job. Took longer. Overall though I now have waterproof roof that won't need caulking.
I masked the edges ahead of time. I pulled the tape the next morning. Any later and the roof would have made it difficult to remove the tape. If your roof is applied in the sun you might pull the tape in four or five hours even. UV makes it cure faster. I also applied roofing around the sides and around the vents first. I ran it right up the vent box sides.
The roof is best poured on using a 1 1/2 gal bucket with a gallon of liquid in it. I determine how large an area a gallon will cover. Mark it with sharpie and then pour. It is very thick and it is easy to pour out thin lines of it to cut down on moving material around later. I pour it all on. The squeegee moves material around and the short map roller smooths the surface. When applying the main roof area it was necessary to roller the material onto the curve of the edge to meet the part where I had already brushed it on. What worked best was to use the long handled squeegee to move some close to the edge then use the roller to cover the curve. I had to be careful not to leave too much liquid at the top so it would not run down. After dark that became harder and I got some runs but nothing visible at more that 20 feet or 60mph. Where the roof ran onto the RV itself I waited until the next morning, lightly scraped with a paint scraper and wiped with Acetone.



You can see some of the runs in the above picture. You can also see that the Refrigerator vent is deteriorating around the edges. This will be a problem because that looks like it is hard to replace. The forward actually had holes eroded into it. I put Eternabond tape over the end and then roofed over everything. I hope it holds for a while. The vent cover was also showing some UV deterioration. It is less than five years old. I painted it white to stop the erosion. Now I paint all plastic before installing it. I know that Rustoleum uses quality materials. I know that RV parts makers often don't. It lasts a lot longer.



Here is another shot of the vent.



This shows another problem I had. We have these big Live Oaks all over the property. They shed leaves all year long. No place else to park. I hoped for a calm night bit no such luck. They are just resting on top and most will come off eventually. Won't hurt outhitting. I won't touch them until it sets fully.





I need to wait three days before I can work up there now. I have to put all of the vent covers back and re-install the ladder. Now that I have the epoxy beneath the roof where the ladder mounts go I believe I will pre-drill the holes and use the caulk beneath the mounting plates instead of on top. That will give a clean look. I also have to mount either two or three solar panels but that may be another thread. I'll add finished photos.
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Old 02-21-2016, 07:07 PM   #28
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Looks good - a lot better than when you started. Soon you can take a break for 10 more years :>)

And thanks for that 1 1/2 gal pail suggestion.
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