Five years or more ago we redid our roof with the original Liquid Rubber and Eternabond tape. The Liquid rubber was said to last five years and it has. For the most part it may still be good but rather than touch up I believe I will re-coat. This is partly because "mistakes were made" that first time. Overall the parts I did right have held up and the combination of rubber and tape reduced maintenance to near zero.
The Eternabond tape:
We taped the front and rear cap joints and then put the rubber over the tape and up to the joint molding. We also taped the side top joints but ran the rubber over those joints and down about five inches to cover the original rubber to where it ends. We taped around the vent hatches and ran the rubber up over the tape for at least two inches. I had just secured the top mountings of the ladder so rather than remove it I covered it with tape and then rubber.
The tape has held up very well except for where it did not stick. I cleaned the roof with Simple green but did didn't use a solvent before the tape went on. I had some spots where it peeled up. Some leaked. The tape did not do well at all covering the ladder mounts or any curved surfaces. It separated and leaked at the ladder mounts.
I plan to remove that area. I have to remove the ladder and repair some bad wood beneath it anyway. I really dislike the way that the ladders are attached at the top. Hard to keep sealed. I may drill oversize holes and fill them with fairing compound before re-drilling smaller holes for the screws. It is an old boaters trick.
The Liquid rubber:
It has held up well. There are places where it developed a heavy texture but it did not leak. It did not hold up on the tape though. It does not stick well. Perhaps I should wipe the tape top with alcohol before the rubber goes on? Where the rubber erodes on the tape there is a definite crack or void at the edge of the taps. There is old roof under there but still...
I believe this area is leaking
This part is just due to laziness on my part. I did not want to remove my 2 15w solar panels and I figured that they had good roof under them which would not receive sun or rain damage so I went around them. Not smart but I got away with it. This is the original 2002 roof showing.
You can also see some tape patches.These are places where the tape did not stick.
I already pressure washed with simple green on a low pressure. I need to remove loose tape. Re-tape those places. Cut out around the ladder mounts and fill with fiberglass and/or epoxy filler. I assume that I can then put rubber over it and bed in the ladder mounts. I need to remove excess caulk. It is all Dicor self leveling. I really should jack up the AC to get the roof under it. I plan to run the rubber right up onto the vertical parts of the hatches. I have the large covers that go over the hatches too. What people tell me may change the plan.
Questions I could use advice on:
Am I wrong to put the eternabond tape on first? It has worked well for me but which is correct?
How critical is removal of the AC? There is only one of me and I also am afraid of rain here in S. FL getting in while I wait for the roof to dry.Can I use a brush to get the roof under it as far as I can instead?
I have 2 100w Solar panels. They are supposed to be installed using well nuts
Shop Standard (SAE) Well Nuts at Lowes.com
They require drilling a good sized hole in the roof but they are designed to expand and prevent leaks. I am considering using the dicor caulk to seal the area when actually screwing on the panel supports. I expect that they would be installed after the roof is poured. Does this sound right to you? Has anyone used these.
Should I caulk the small holes caused by #8 screws from previous solar installations before roofing or just cover and fill with the roofing?
Do I need to remove all of the old self leveling caulk or just enough to make it flat (or none?)
If you made it this far I thank you. If you have an answer I thank you a lot! I will take lots of pictures as the repair proceeds.