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Old 10-08-2011, 03:20 PM   #1
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Lubrication of Holding tank Valves

A few years ago there were some posts about taping and installing grease zerks in the holding tank valves. Has anyone done or heard of this being done? I did several searches and could not come up with anything. If I remember correctly it was done about 1/2 way up on the narrow part of the valve. Any input will be appreciated.

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Old 10-08-2011, 04:20 PM   #2
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The pictures I saw showed the zerk a little over half way up the side of the valve. I have not done it to mine yet but it is on my list of things to do.
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Old 10-09-2011, 01:16 AM   #3
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I just use a toilet chemical with coconut oil in it. Have never had a valve seal fail yet or need any more lubrication than that.
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:14 AM   #4
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i have found the shaft seal to be the problem. a little silicon spray works good.
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:41 AM   #5
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Similar to Mr_D, I put a half cup of vegetable oil in the toilet maybe once a month, never had a problem with the valve sticking or leaking.
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:44 AM   #6
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Similar to Mr_D, I put a half cup of vegetable oil in the toilet maybe once a month, never had a problem with the valve sticking or leaking.
Just remember that some oils could attack the "rubber" seals, coconut oil won't.
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Old 10-09-2011, 11:07 AM   #7
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I use cheap baby oil from the dollar stores or coconut oil in all the tanks ocassionally, valves stay easy to move.
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:02 PM   #8
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Another option to be considered is spraying the metal shaft (of course, the valve must be open to do this) with plain ol' silicone spray. That bushing is where the action is. The rest of the valve is generally hollow, and filling that cavity with grease will give you a warm feeling, and some puddles of grease on the floor, but not much else.
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:17 PM   #9
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I just use a toilet chemical with coconut oil in it. Have never had a valve seal fail yet or need any more lubrication than that.

Does that have an SPF of 30 or more?

It sounds like a good idea, where can we buy it?
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Old 10-14-2011, 04:24 AM   #10
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i drilled an 1/8 " hole just beside the handle and squirted some silicone spray in it occassionaly and plug the hole with a small sheet metal screw with a small oring on it.
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Old 10-14-2011, 05:08 AM   #11
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I worked as an RV tech in the 80's. We packed the area around the seals with vasoline, and greased the shaft with it also. We never had a complaint from a customer. I had a 76 HR Prez that I bought in 86. It had the Thetford valves on it which were three times the price of the generic black ones. Mine were leaking when I bought the coach. I replaced the fittings and the valves with the cheaper ones, packed them with vasoline, and when I sold the coach in 1999 they were still working well.
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:23 PM   #12
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When I winterize, I put some 'plumbers faucet and valve grease' (Amazon.com: Faucet/valve Grease: Home Improvement) on the shafts of the black & grey tank valves and also around the cover to the outlet.

It keeps everything from drying and in the spring time and most of the travel year, everything works fine.
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:24 AM   #13
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Quote:
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When I winterize, I put some 'plumbers faucet and valve grease' (Amazon.com: Faucet/valve Grease: Home Improvement) on the shafts of the black & grey tank valves and also around the cover to the outlet.

It keeps everything from drying and in the spring time and most of the travel year, everything works fine.
That sounds like the best idea yet.
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:29 PM   #14
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I added the grease fittings on all three of my dump valves in 2009 and used them in a fulltime rv environment since. I added general purpose grease to them and immediately noticed a much easier valve movement. After two years, the valves continued to work great and very smoothly. We just traded coaches and I will be adding the grease fittings to my new dump valves. Very easy to do, just get the appropriate size tap, drill a hole, tap the threads, and screw in the fitting.
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