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Old 10-07-2008, 08:39 AM   #15
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Can I use a residential 50A 240V outlet </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ken, if you click on the link in my previous post, it is all explained there.
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Old 10-07-2008, 09:59 AM   #16
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Dirk,
We meant the same thing. I think we were focused on different points. The OP asked about where the 240V was split to 120V. My reply was "If you are talking about the bus bar in the coach the answer is no." This matches your post saying "The RV's breaker panel is an extension of the power pedestal."

There is no spliting of the voltage at the coach bus bar. The voltage comes in already split into two legs.
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Old 10-07-2008, 10:15 AM   #17
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The 120/240VAC 50 amp service comes from a transformer with a center-tapped neutral as shown below:



In this illustration, the top leg on the right would be L1, the center-tap leg would be N and the bottom leg would be L2.

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Old 10-07-2008, 03:08 PM   #18
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Yeah - what you said. I'm old and use the wrong term occasionally. I know "phase" actually refers to multi-phased AC (like 477 3-phase) where there is actually a 120 degree phase shift, which one rarely sees outside an industrial application. Sorry for any perceived misrepresentation . . ..
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Old 10-07-2008, 03:25 PM   #19
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Very good discussion on 50 amp service. I bought a service box with the proper receptacle at Lowes, it was labeled "50 amp RV", and wired it to my home panel with two 50 amp breakers. You must use three 8 gauge wires (two black, one white) and a 12 gauge green for the ground. Now for my problem. I have the Surgeguard transfer switch with a display showing voltage and amperage draw for each leg. Sudenly the second leg is dead when I am plugged in, even to 50 amp service. The display shows 120 or so volts and no amps. The front A/C is dead as is the washer. If I start the generator, everything works. I suspect a problem with the Surgeguard transfer switch. I am not sure the 30 to 50 adapter activates the second leg because my friends complain that they can't use the second A/C or washer when plugged in to 30 amp service. I think the surgeguard does it on my Alpine.
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Old 10-07-2008, 04:55 PM   #20
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I think people get confused when they look at the physical size of a breaker. They see one that only attaches to one location on the bus bar and understand that gives them 120 volts on the wire connected to it. Now they look at one that is twice as wide and attaches to two locations on the bus bar (A phase and B phase) and then think the wires are carrying 240 volts each. They are actually still carrying 120 volt each. When you put a meter between the two hot wires the meter will read the combination of the two wires. The reason the wider breaker (double pole) has to be used is because of the use of one common neutral wire. The code requires with one common neutral for two hot wires a double pole breaker with a single handle (or two single pole breakers with a hadle tie) be used. This way if there is a fault both hot legs are disconnected at the same time.

Anybody want to discuss three phase with a high leg???? Talk about confusing!
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Old 10-07-2008, 05:23 PM   #21
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Rick -

You didn't accidentally hook L1 or L2 to both terminals, did you. If you did, it will do what you described.
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Old 10-08-2008, 12:06 AM   #22
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One breaker for each leg. The outlet is good. At a campground I tried two different outlets, always the same. It acts like most 50 amp feeds do on a 30 amp adapter, dead L2.
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Old 10-08-2008, 01:24 AM   #23
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Rick, you might want to check the circuit breaker on your inverter. If tripped you can get the scenario you now have.
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Old 10-08-2008, 07:28 AM   #24
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Thanks Dirk. I missed that link.
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Old 10-08-2008, 07:52 AM   #25
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You will need a receptacle that is rated 50 amp 120/240 4 wire, the wire that you run from the main panel will have to be four wire. Not all hot tubs are 120/240, Jacuzzi has models that are straight 240. If the spa receptacle is 50 amp 4 wire, you should be ok, though most spas that size are usually hard wired to the disconnect. If you are not sure what you have, it is not advisable to do it yourself. Major damage can be done to the motorhome if miswired.
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Old 10-08-2008, 08:03 AM   #26
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Rick J Fisher:
Very good discussion on 50 amp service. I bought a service box with the proper receptacle at Lowes, it was labeled "50 amp RV", and wired it to my home panel with two 50 amp breaker...... and a 12 gauge green for the ground. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The 50 amp breaker must be a double pole with a common handle tie and the ground shall not be smaller than # 10 for a 50 amp circuit, The employees at the big box stores are very seldom electricians, so they will give you bad advice.
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Old 10-08-2008, 11:09 AM   #27
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">The employees at the big box stores are very seldom electricians, so they will give you bad advice. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


HEAR! HEAR!
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Old 10-08-2008, 05:24 PM   #28
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I had read that 12 gauge is ok for the ground as long as the two legs and the neutral are full gauge. Back to my problem. I opened the Surgeguard (took an hour because the cover was blocked) and discovered the black (L1) wire from the shore line was loose. A separate small wire feeds the voltage display and it was touching the black wire so I got a reading. However after connecting it that leg is still dead after the transfer switch. I don't have my 50 amp up yet so I use a Camco 50 - 30 amp adapter and it connects both legs together. It is clear the transfer switch is not passing that leg through to the coach breaker box. I have an email in to Surgeguard but they are on eastern time. BTW, there are no circuit breakers on the Surgeguard or the inverter/converter.
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