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Old 03-06-2011, 02:21 PM   #15
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I have an AGM in my 60 Corvette for 10 plus years now. I keep a trickle charger on it and it is still going strong.
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Old 03-13-2011, 10:08 PM   #16
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Depends on exact battery and application

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob/Becky D - VA View Post
Could you direct me to were you got this fact. All of my research indicates the oposite.

Thanks

Bob
There are AGM, and there are VRLA that are also AGM.

All are lead acid type batteries, but the materials and construction are different.

There are AGM batteries that are suitable as a starting battery while others are designed as "float service" batteries, these are usually VRLA.

The float service type can last well over 20 years if treated correctly, they are designed for controlled environment, so 68 to 75 degrees is their happy place, hotter than that they get damaged and they also have a limitied amount of cycles.

So if you use a float service battery as a cabin battery, mount it under the hood, and use it often then it is likely to have a short life where a flooded type or normal car starting battery is used the exact same way it may last longer due to the design more towards being mounted under the hood and cycling more often to support the starting function.

Investigate the data sheet for any to be purchased battery to determine if it will do as needed in the planned installation before spending the money, if in doubt contact the manufacturer, they usually can give good answers to configuration questions.
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Old 03-14-2011, 02:39 AM   #17
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I appreciate all the comments. I am coming to the conclusion to go ahead with my idea of an AGM chassis battery. I have a 6 yr old maint.-free starting battery still working fine, so I hopefully have time to map out the best new location for it. It seems to be a fact that the engine charging system sends charge to the starting battery first, and then to the house batteries. I still don't understand the inverter/charger setup. The article on batteries referenced above was very informative. Thanks to all.
the converter makes 12v dc, actually more like 13.5-14v, from 110v ac power from shore power or ac generator to power your 12v lights and appliances and charge your house batteries.
the inverter produces 110v ac from 12v dc batteries for operating a limited amount of 110v appliances.
an inverter that would operate everything in your moho would be very large, heavy, and very expensive. you would have to have a very large battery bank too.
there are 2 types of inverters, msw (less expensive) and sw (more expensive). some appliances such as microwaves and some flat panel tv sets don't like the power from modified sine wave inverters and will over heat.
to make this more complicated, some converter-chargers house the inverter in the same box.
maybe this site will help with your understanding of your ''converter-charger'' and inverter.

RVcruzer.com Electrical Tutorial - Chapter 7 - Batteries and Chargers
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:40 PM   #18
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Dan L, maybe the intent of my question was not clear. I understand the essentials of the hardware, inverters, chargers, et al. What I meant was, I don't understand how MY specific system works. I have the Xantrex inverter-charger, the chassis alternator charging system, a solenoid battery interconnect, and a solar charger circuit. When I am driving, the alternator charges both the starting and house batteries, and there must be an isolator or controller to manage that.

When I am parked and plugged into land AC power, the Xantrex charges the house batteries. I don't think it charges the starting battery.

When I have the coach in storage or am dry camping, the solar system charges both the house and starting batteries. I assume that is so, because the voltage on both sets of batteries is always about the same after an extended charging period. The mystery to me is how the solar ties in and seems to be seen by both batteries differently from the inverter. National RV used a complex 12v control unit that I have not been able to figure out. I need to spend more time on the schematics.

To my basic question, I am now pretty convinced that using an AGM starting battery with wet-cell house batteries is not a problem.
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:53 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by two2go View Post
Dan L, maybe the intent of my question was not clear.

The mystery to me is how the solar ties in and seems to be seen by both batteries differently from the ''inverter''. National RV used a complex 12v control unit that I have not been able to figure out. I need to spend more time on the schematics.

To my basic question, I am now pretty convinced that using an AGM starting battery with wet-cell house batteries is not a problem.
i agree that agm starting batteries and flooded cell batteries are most likely compatible.
i still don't get your statement about the ""inverter"". that is why i posted what i did.
maybe you meant to say converter???
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:48 AM   #20
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i still don't get your statement about the ""inverter"". that is why i posted what i did.
maybe you meant to say converter???
No. My Xantrex unit is a 1000 watt inverter that provides 110 v to some of the house outlets. It also has a 3-stage charger section to maintain the house batteries. I suppose it is a converter in the sense that the 12v section is capable of supplying the coach 12v needs, but it is a different system than I had in my 5th wheel. I had a converter-charger in it and also a separate inverter unit. Maybe Xantrex should call theirs an inverter-converter-charger?
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Old 03-17-2011, 02:12 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by two2go View Post
No. My Xantrex unit is a 1000 watt inverter that provides 110 v to some of the house outlets. It also has a 3-stage charger section to maintain the house batteries. I suppose it is a converter in the sense that the 12v section is capable of supplying the coach 12v needs, but it is a different system than I had in my 5th wheel. I had a converter-charger in it and also a separate inverter unit. Maybe Xantrex should call theirs an inverter-converter-charger?
there you go...
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