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Old 12-27-2012, 07:55 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
Lol, now why do I have to lighten up? Why would you bring it up and tell everyone they are wrong when we all know what it is and what it is called? In the whole automotive world it is called a starter solenoid actually a "remote" starter solenoid by everyone except you.

JEGS Ford-Style Remote Mount Starter Solenoid - JEGS
Where the heck did I say everyone, or anyone was wrong? I simply clarified my reasoning for calling it a relay.. Which, by the way, is what FORD calls it, a RELAY, and for the same reason that I do.

I couldn't care less what everyone in your "automotive world" erroneously calls it. It's a solenoid, but it's a starter relay in this case.

The OP called it a "cylinder with a squarish thing on top". Was I wrong to try to not add anymore confusion than necessary?

Anyone wanting to help people, rather than flex their ego, might just understand. Like I said, lighten up....

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Old 12-27-2012, 08:25 PM   #30
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A VOM is your friend It will tell you what the voltages actually are! Deep Cycle Battery FAQ has a chart about two thirds of way down that give a general guide as to what voltage should be on resting batteries, if they are in fact fully charged they should be 12.7V. If the are 11.31V or less they are toast and will have to be replaced. A VOM will also tell you if the charger/converter is working, if you turn it on and the voltage at the battery does not go up past 13V you have a problem. You might want to pull the starting battery and take it and have it checked.
Also have you checked water level etc? Cleanliness is next to godliness so clean all the contacts and check voltages.

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Old 12-27-2012, 08:27 PM   #31
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I looked on your profile and you have listed 91 year model. This would indicate a 460 v8 and not V10. Ether engine your positive cable has two large cables leaving the battery clamp. One goes to the starter and the other goes to the underhood fuse and relay panel. The underhood panel powers everything including the primary side of the starter relay. The other cable goes strait to the starter. What I have seen is the cable to the starter looses connection in the battery clamp due to corrosion. You do not see this on the outside of the clamp but you get the symptoms as you describe. To check, if the engine fails to start again climb under with a test light and check for power when someone trys to start engine. Check at the large cable connection at the starter solinoid. Yes there is another solinoid on the starter. If power drops when the starter relay clicks, you need to change the positive cable. I have seen this many times while working at Ford and usually after the third or fourth starter has been tried!

Dave and Laura & two cats
02 Discovery with Accord toad
retired auto rv tech and teacher, wife rt nurse
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