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Old 03-30-2010, 09:15 AM   #15
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Interesting-- I can see where the mineral oil would help, AND not do any harm to the batteries. My concern is with the amount of oil added...

Did a little math: a square foot of liquid 1" deep works out to 79.75 ounces-- we'll just round up to 80

4 ounces is 1/20 of 80 ounces, and 1/20 of 1" = .050", just shy of 1/16" deep per square foot of open space inside your battery (roughly the thickness of 2 credit cards)....Typical 6 volt Trojans are probably closer to half a square foot, so 4 ounces of oil would be getting close to 1/8" deep...

So the question is, how thick should the layer of oil be?
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Old 03-30-2010, 01:13 PM   #16
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I read somewhere that the railroads used mineral oil on their stationary batteries at signal points. I read more about using oil and added 2 oz per cell to my Trojan 6v batteries. Both batteries subsequently failed within 6 months at about 3 years age. I can't say that the mineral oil was the culprit because the batteries were practically dry when I purchased my used coach. However, I am concerned about the motion in RV batteries causing the mineral oil to slosh around and coat the plates. The railroad batteries just sit there.
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Old 03-30-2010, 01:25 PM   #17
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I have used 2 oz per cell for years. Stops corrosion dramatically. Haven't added distilled water since last summer. Just checked them before going to FMCA in NM. Everything was okay. Keep water above the plates, then add oil.
Yes, you still have to spray the posts and cables when needed. I sprayed last summer and looks like it was done yesterday.

Kerry
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Old 03-30-2010, 01:51 PM   #18
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This method of dealing w/battery bubbling has been in use for maybe a century. Check eBay for "Edison Battery Oil" and you will usually find a small bottle sold by Thomas way, way long ago for use in his lead acid, glass tank, batteries.

The bubbles contain hydrogen and oxygen. The film around the gas part of the bubble is sulfuric acid solution. Sufficient gassing produces acid splash as the bubbles pop and that goes into the cap and may spread on the top of the battery case. Oil will help minimize loss of liquid. It will not stop loss of gas, which is the important caveat here:
Battery water is H2O- two hydrogen and one oxygen but in a liquid molecule form in the acid solution. Split the water molecule during charging and you get hydrogen gas (bubble) and oxygen gas (bubble) which escapes thru the oil. So that means some amount of water escapes, but as oxygen and hydrogen gases. You lose much less water as water with the oil, but you still lose water.

Commercial battery banks are usually stationary (see discussion of railroad signal stations above) and have the opportunity of special caps that recombine gasses into water that drops back to the battery cell. Most of those don't work on rattle-&-roll motorhomes. Most commercial battery banks like cellular phone antenna stations use AGM batteries as they resolve the off-gassing problems and have proved very predictable for maintenance. Some coach owners have had good experience w/Battery Miser caps that do the same, although they are quite spendy and may lose their effectiveness over 3 or so years according to one friend who had them and has since gone AGM. I got tired of the battery mess, screwing w/connections, etc. and recently went AGM for house batt's; I still have wet cell "no-maintenance" starter batteries which give me no problems.
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Old 03-30-2010, 02:42 PM   #19
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After reading a similar thread several years ago, I decided to try it. I added 2 oz to each cell in 8 house batteries. Corrosion stopped! Batteries still holding charge. Reduces water consumption dramatically.

What does it do? Don't care. Corrosion in the battery compartment, which is in the engine compartment, is non-existent. All I know is that I am very satisfied with the now long term results. Batteries are going to be 4 years old this summer.
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Old 03-30-2010, 03:07 PM   #20
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There is (was) a product called Therm-oil. Back in late 90s even had line of batteries which National RV used. I put Therm-oil in my coach batteries two years ago. Immediately solved the over gassing problem and batteries are holding up fine. Even though I like the Therm-oil, Optimas batteries are next. I'll pay the extra cost from what I saved in my "cuss" jar. How, I hate a corrosive battery.

Therm-oil website is http://www.batteryde-mister.com/ The product I used is the De-mister. I know others have written it is snake oil, but my batteries were snake bit before and much better now. Still need to check fluid level.
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Old 03-30-2010, 03:12 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by deandec View Post
Another Mineral Oil convert.

Trojans are well beyond their 60 month warranty and working like new.
I thought Trojans were single use and did not offer a warranty!!!


Couldn't resist, tried, but couldn't. Should not have given up drinking.
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Old 03-30-2010, 03:49 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlayItForwrd View Post
Interesting-- I can see where the mineral oil would help, AND not do any harm to the batteries. My concern is with the amount of oil added...

Did a little math: a square foot of liquid 1" deep works out to 79.75 ounces-- we'll just round up to 80

4 ounces is 1/20 of 80 ounces, and 1/20 of 1" = .050", just shy of 1/16" deep per square foot of open space inside your battery (roughly the thickness of 2 credit cards)....Typical 6 volt Trojans are probably closer to half a square foot, so 4 ounces of oil would be getting close to 1/8" deep...

So the question is, how thick should the layer of oil be?

It depends. The higher the voltage placed on the battery during charging the more gassing that will occur. During the bulk charging state voltage is usually higher than the float stage and equalization is higher than them all. So it depends on how much you use your batteries, how deeply they are discharged and the voltage used by your charge system to charge your batteries.


The issue is at what point will the gassing break thru the oil layer. The thicker the oil layer the more likely gas will not escape. The other issue is to maintain enough electrolyte between the oil and the top of the plates to allow for a specific gravity test.


For example:


In my Interstate Workaholic U2200 6 volt battery there is 1-3/4 inches of space from the top of the battery plates to the bottom of the fill tube. With a 1/8th inch layer of oil on the surface of the electrolyte(your numbers) that leaves about 1-5/8 inches of electrolyte to dip a hydrometer into without getting into the oil layer. A hydrometer only needs about 1 to 1-1/2 oz. of electrolyte to measure specific gravity which is about 1/32nd of an inch.


Next time my batteries are bulk charging I will check for gassing and if I feel it is necessary I may add another oz. of oil but 4 oz. of mineral oil in each cell of a 6 volt deep cycle battery should be all that is necessary.
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Old 03-30-2010, 08:39 PM   #23
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If you use the oil in a bad battery to start with, you still have a bad battery. It is not likely that the battery manufacturers would support the addition of anything to the battery that would make it last longer. Many manufacturers used to use Therm-oil batteries (brand name with Therm-oil added and name changed). Therm-oil was never set up for distribution and support and the manufacturers had to give up the product and went back to standard batteries.

Therm-oil formula (under another name) is widely used in Europe and has been for years with rather good success. It is more than plain Mineral Oil, but I am not sure it really makes any difference. It seems from the posts here, the yeas have won the vote.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:13 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by RoadRohrers View Post
I thought Trojans were single use and did not offer a warranty!!!

I use four at a time, that how I got the warranty. Things last longer that way.
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Old 04-01-2010, 09:42 AM   #25
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I use Battery Equaliser: Battery Equaliser Doubles Battery Life - for Auto, Boat, Golf Cart, Motorcycle, Solar, Truck, RV, Forklift, Floor Cleaner and all Lead Acid Batteries.
Opinions re this versus mineral oil!

Eh!

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Old 04-01-2010, 11:14 AM   #26
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The Battery Equaliser is designed to prevent a different battery problem than mineral oil. The Equaliser is supposed to prevent sulfation and the mineral oil is supposed to prevent corrosion due to sulfuric gas dropletts. But if the sulfation can be reabsorbed into the electrolyte or just removed from the battery plates that's a good thing.
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Old 04-03-2010, 08:26 AM   #27
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Mineral oil solved my serious corrosion problems. I was cleaning the corrosion on the batteries and battery compartment area every few weeks. I put 2 oz in the cells of my 12 volt coach and 12 volt chassis batteries 10 months and 10,000 miles ago. No corrosion since. I am a believer in the mineral oil now big time. Greg
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Old 04-03-2010, 09:29 AM   #28
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How much should the plates be covered? I think I sometimes add too much water.

Thanks,
RJ
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