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Old 04-14-2016, 11:33 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
Sounds like the multiple recalls were not performed. The "box" shut the frig down if it detects overheating. The ARP website
also shuts the frig down, then allows it to re-start when cooled down from the over-heat condition.
I don't recall all of the differences between the Norcold fix and an ARP system but one of the big differences is the temp these trigger on. The Norcold fix triggers at 800 degrees F and they can be difficult to reset and get the fridge operational again after it's been triggered. The ARP system triggers at 400 degree F and automatically resets itself after about 30 minute. If it shuts your fridge down you may not even know it happened unless you note the fridge is currently off.

We have had our shut our fridge down a number of times due to cross winds and similar issues. I now know to check the ARP box and note the remaining time until it restarts things.

We have an earlier version of the ARP system but don't have the fans in the back of the fridge.
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Old 04-16-2016, 03:14 PM   #16
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Ron, there is a big difference between the factory protective "fix" and the ARP system. The factory "fix" for the recalls is designed to be a one-time use; the reset by using a strong magnet was discovered by someone else, and does not address the overheating stress on the boiler and tubing. Neither of the factories approve of using the magnet technique to reset their over-temperature device. The ARP system is an automatic-resetting device that keeps the temperature from ever reaching a temperature that over-stresses the cooling system.
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Old 04-16-2016, 05:51 PM   #17
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How can I tell which device is on my unit. I would think the ARP says it on the device? Can you explain the one time use your mentioning. While traveling I am using the LP until I get to power in my driveway I get the rig reasonably level front to rear in order to run the LP once the temp is reached I plug into my rv service at home.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:28 PM   #18
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The ARPrv.com website explains everything perfectly. The factory "fix" is a small black box attached to a boiler tube. It has a tiny red LED that lights when it has tripped, but nothing telling what it is on the box. By the time it trips out the entire cooling piping has been subjected to overtemperature. The cooling system has an overtemperature "blowout" plug to release excess pressure and prevent it from rupturing; thus the one-time use.
Personally, I will not use a magnet to reset my Norcold factory recall "fix". When/if it trips I'll just contact our extended service contract and have it replaced after it has been properly diagnosed by a repair shop. Since my deductible is only $100+ diagnostic charge, I think I have the proper solution.
FWIW, I think the ARP presentation of normal boiler temperature is too high. I prefer to believe the mechanical engineer and professional fire investigators who authored the second link.
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