My solution to the inner dual tire valve problem

[Max Hubrich]

After two blowouts and two flats on my 22.5" inner, rear, dual tires I did a modification to the valve stem extensions. Here is my solution:


I use a"crow foot" truck tire chuck and gauge to service these tires.I carry a small 120V air compressor with me.



Outer dual wheel. It has a 1 1/2" straight extension on it. The "crow foot" chuck and gauge fit it fine.



Inner dual wheel. This was the big problem!!

I measured the length from the tip of the valve stem to the center of the opening in the wheel cover. I then ordered two 7 1/2" stainless steel extensions on the internet. I could have used the 8 1/2" length ones also.

I then removed the wheel cover and cut some paste board into 5/8" strips. I clamped one end of the paste board (now becoming a "template") to the inside of an opening with a small spring clamp. I then fiddled with bends in the template until I had the proper angles I needed. I clamped the other end of the template to the other side of the opening. Then I drilled four 1/8" holes in the wheel cover. These are stainless steel wheel covers and they can be drilled successfully using a high speed steel (HSS)' (or carbide) 1/8" bit. Do not use "carbon steel" bits-- they are for wood and plastic. Drill from the "inside" of the cover.

I got some 5/8" strips of aluminum, .035" thickness from a local airport maintenance shop. You can try Lowes or Home depot, or a small general aviation airport, etc for materials. Use your template, laying straight out (flat), on the aluminum (or Stainless Steel). Cut to length and drill the four rivet holes. Then measure the new extensions threaded outside diameter. Drill that hole-- it's like 5/16" or so (the new valve extension must pass into this hole comfortably). Now put the bends in the metal in a vice--via your template. If you use aluminum, as I did, Make soft, smooth bends-- aluminum will crack and break if the angle is too sharp as you approach 90 degrees. Now install the rivets (1/8", aluminum, with aluminum backing washers) from the outside of the cover. The SS extensions should fit into the hole you drilled as you place the wheel cover on the wheel. Check closely that no part of the extension is close to, or touching the opening in the inner steel wheel. I tied, with wire, some small rubber hose to the extension to ensure no part of the extension will ever touch these openings. If it doesn't fit exactly right-- start over. The rivets can easily be drilled out.

This entire project wouldn't cost $35. It will take some of your time but the peace of mind you'll have is well worth it. I always checked my tire pressure before starting a trip and if the short extensions I had before moved a tiny bit it let out air and I had two blowouts.

This can't happen with this set up, and checking the pressures now is a pleasure---

Good luck all,

[Max Hubrich]

After two blowouts and two flats on my 22.5" inner, rear, dual tires I did a modification to the valve stem extensions. Here is my solution:


I use a"crow foot" truck tire chuck and gauge to service these tires.I carry a small 120V air compressor with me.



Outer dual wheel. It has a 1 1/2" straight extension on it. The "crow foot" chuck and gauge fit it fine.



Inner dual wheel. This was the big problem!!

I measured the length from the tip of the valve stem to the center of the opening in the wheel cover. I then ordered two 7 1/2" stainless steel extensions on the internet. I could have used the 8 1/2" length ones also.

I then removed the wheel cover and cut some paste board into 5/8" strips. I clamped one end of the paste board (now becoming a "template") to the inside of an opening with a small spring clamp. I then fiddled with bends in the template until I had the proper angles I needed. I clamped the other end of the template to the other side of the opening. Then I drilled four 1/8" holes in the wheel cover. These are stainless steel wheel covers and they can be drilled successfully using a high speed steel (HSS)' (or carbide) 1/8" bit. Do not use "carbon steel" bits-- they are for wood and plastic. Drill from the "inside" of the cover.

I got some 5/8" strips of aluminum, .035" thickness from a local airport maintenance shop. You can try Lowes or Home depot, or a small general aviation airport, etc for materials. Use your template, laying straight out (flat), on the aluminum (or Stainless Steel). Cut to length and drill the four rivet holes. Then measure the new extensions threaded outside diameter. Drill that hole-- it's like 5/16" or so (the new valve extension must pass into this hole comfortably). Now put the bends in the metal in a vice--via your template. If you use aluminum, as I did, Make soft, smooth bends-- aluminum will crack and break if the angle is too sharp as you approach 90 degrees. Now install the rivets (1/8", aluminum, with aluminum backing washers) from the outside of the cover. The SS extensions should fit into the hole you drilled as you place the wheel cover on the wheel. Check closely that no part of the extension is close to, or touching the opening in the inner steel wheel. I tied, with wire, some small rubber hose to the extension to ensure no part of the extension will ever touch these openings. If it doesn't fit exactly right-- start over. The rivets can easily be drilled out.

This entire project wouldn't cost $35. It will take some of your time but the peace of mind you'll have is well worth it. I always checked my tire pressure before starting a trip and if the short extensions I had before moved a tiny bit it let out air and I had two blowouts.

This can't happen with this set up, and checking the pressures now is a pleasure---

Good luck all,

[MonacoMama]

WOOOOO-HOOOO

I just have to CROW over Max Hubrich's persistance today! This man worked all day to figure out on his own how to take the photos , resize them, post them..and then how to put them in his post.

He was sooo close to having done it on his own.
Please remember when you put a photo (or IMAGE) in your post... use the "Image URL" button at the top. It is the second one from the right...or the 10th one from the left.

Max... EXCELLANT post!!


MM

[bjbkkb]

I like your ingenuity.

[J Walker]

Or you can use no extensions like I do. I have a blanket and use it to let me lay down and reach the valve cap. I add air using a straight, not crow foot truck chuck, tool. If I could just find a way to remove and replace the valve cap through the rim and wheel cover opening it would be truly easy. I fortunately don't have to do this often since my tires hold pressure well.

[oemtech]

Max

I knew you could Get-R-Done!

I was just about to post your pics you sent me. But, I see ou have crakes the code!

[Max Hubrich]

I couldn't done it without "Monaco Mama" gal--- She's a doll. I still don't have it all down pat, but yesterday was a wipe out weather wise here in East Central North Carolina and I had the time to work it out. Thanks Dale and Mama,

Max H

[full-timer]

I have the SS extentions on mine also they are anchored down and not flopping around. I've seen some that are loose and think this is the reason people have problems with them.

Joe

[Tom N]

My 1994 Vectra came from the factory with a similiar bracket but the bracket was attached to the wheel cover with one screw. The screw had to be removed when pulling the wheel cover. The bracket always stayed attached to the valve stem. It worked well.

-Tom

[Fred B.]

Wednesday, I had new tires put on our MH. I idly asked if there was anything they could do with the outer valve stems so I wouldn't have to remove the wheel covers to check the air. When I picked it up I was glad to see the valve stems sticking out from the wheel liner. One of the mechanics had taken a longer stem & bent it between 2 rollers so that I can now check the air without removing the covers. No I'm not going to take pictures cause it's too D!!1 cold out there now. Maybe in a week and a half when we're in warmer climes.